Searched all over hell, I'm not finding the info I need.

I'm ***** deep into this CRX doing my first timing belt change. I am quite familar (I believe) with what I should be doing. But I know it by the books. I've never done it with my hands and things are not going well

It's all apart, I've already installed the new water pump. I'm having issues with the timing -- of course. I know I should be lining the cams up to TDC to be paralell the deck of the head, and the crank to the notch on the block, etc. etc. But I really can't turn the cams or the crank but a very small amount. Any advice?

 

Have you moved the cams and crank since the belt has been removed? Did you set it TDC before removing the belt? Is there something physically stopping you from moving the crank and cams?

(Don't force either one, you might have the valves hitting the piston at this point. You don't want to bend them).

 

Yeah, I've kinda been through it. Not in gear, both tires off the ground, the crank is TDC. The cams are my issue.. Wish I had my camera I'd just take a picture of my concern.

 

The"UP" arrows are pointed up. The two notches on the cams 90° from there are in line...

 

Well, you didn't exactly answer any of my questions directly. If you want to play it safe, I'd remove the cams completely so that all the valves are in the closed position. That way there's no chance of bending them. Rotate the crank so that it is at TDC. Then reinstall the cams at TDC position. You might have to use a big crescent wrench to rotate the cam(s) into position because at TDC I believe one pair of intake valves are already beginning to open and pair of exhaust valves are just finishing closing.

Actually, do you even have the valve cover off?

 

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If that's so, and the crank is at TDC, I don't see what the problem is anymore...

If it's because you can't rotate the cam(s), it's because the valves are about to open/close somewhere giving you resistance.

 

Noted. My issue at this point is that when I get the timing belt on, the dashes on the cams are missing each other by a tiny bit. I don't know if this is going to be an issue or not. I hear one tooth is all it takes for a bent valve.

 

What specific motor or motor combo is this and which belt are you using? Any work done to the head or block prior to changing the belt? If a head or block (or both) have been machined enough on their mating surfaces, this will cause the cams to misalign when the belt is installed.

 

No milling. There is a slightly larger head gasket then stock. Would like half a tooth of alignement be the difference between running well and like crap?

Also, I can't get the belt back on the save my life. Any tips? Tensioner is full loose.

 

It would effect the alignment ever so slightly but I really doubt it would drastically effect the way the car will run. That would have to be one thick gasket to even notice that the cams aren't aligned anymore.

Dumb question-You sure you have the correct belt? You should be able to put it on with just minimal effort if the tensioner is already loose. Tried comparing it with your old belt yet?

 

Yes, I have. 124 teeth count on both.

Taking the old belt off with the thicker gasket was difficult as it is. So putting it on can clearly be even harder. I just don't see this much trouble from a larger head gasket. I can barely even tell the headgasket is different from stock.

 

Well, I've used a big flathead screwdriver to get the leverage I needed to get my belt on once before. That should work for you. I put the belt on one cam gear and used the flat head to sort of pry up against the belt and then slid it onto the other camgear.

 

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1) Remove the spring from the tensioner anchor and install you pin punches into the cams.
2) Install the belt onto the crank, tensioner, wp.
3) Keeping tension on the belt (very important), slide it onto the intake cam about half way.
4) Keeping tension on the belt, eyeball where the belt is hitting the cam gear on the exhaust side.
5) With your 14mm wrench turn the exhaust cam slightly to get the belt on.
6) Reinstall the tensioner spring, remove your pin punches.

Use a straight edge/ruler across the cam gears, there are 4 marks that should line up 9 and 3 o'clock in the exhaust cam and 9 and 3 o'clock on the intake cam.

 

Where do the pin punches go? Is it those two holes I'm seeing on the cam towers? Should there just be a hole that lines up with those when the cams are TDC?

 

Hard to describe without knowing what motor you have. Refer to the service manual.. it tells you exactly where they go. You do have a service manual, right?!?!

 

It's a B16A. Naturally I have a Helms. I've since got the belt on and have encountered another issue.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2360053

I appreciate all your help.


Modified by Jeffrey9 at 12:43 PM 8/6/2008