Need help on replacing balljoints on the ITR.
I messed up my oem balljoint with the pickle fork. Tore up the boot. There's no snapring to lock it in. I tried pounding it up and out, but it wont budge. I tried torching it. But no luck. Is there some kinda took to press it out? Is there a way to do it without taking the whole arm off and taking it to the shop? or should i jsut take the arm off and take it to the shop?
I tried hammering it up to push it out, but no luck. I would hate to take it to the shop. but i have to do it soon cus my motor is going back in the next couple of weeks. cant wait to drive it again. =D
yeah, thanks. I think i kinda see about .5mm of it coming up but it wont budge anymore after that. I'll just have to take the whole knuckle off. thanks for the advice. =D i might as well replace both sides while im at it.
air tools are your friend. ball joints come out very easy with an air hammer with a flat bit. you can also install them with the air hammer but be easy on the tops of the bj's, hit the outer edge when going back in.
and you can use a pickle fork but spray some lube first and lift the boot up a little so the fork is under the boot not right threw the center of it. my .02
and you can use a pickle fork but spray some lube first and lift the boot up a little so the fork is under the boot not right threw the center of it. my .02
It's a little late for this, but if you tear the boot, then replace just the boot. You can remove the retaining ring and replace the boot independently of the balljoint. Only if the joint has play, or the stud is damaged, or if the grease has dried out should you have to replace the balljiont.
Since you're already on your way to replacing the balljoint, then you have to remove the ring behind the knuckle on the opposite side of the hub. Use a screwdriver or small pry bar to pry it loose. The balljoint won't be able to move up any higher and 1/4" to 1/2" if you do not remove the ring. Just the same, I think you should remove the driveshaft as well if you haven't already.
I use an OTC 7249 C-frame with the Honda balljoint tool set to press the balljoint in and out. It takes about 10 minutes to R&R and there's not hammering needed.
Since you're already on your way to replacing the balljoint, then you have to remove the ring behind the knuckle on the opposite side of the hub. Use a screwdriver or small pry bar to pry it loose. The balljoint won't be able to move up any higher and 1/4" to 1/2" if you do not remove the ring. Just the same, I think you should remove the driveshaft as well if you haven't already.
I use an OTC 7249 C-frame with the Honda balljoint tool set to press the balljoint in and out. It takes about 10 minutes to R&R and there's not hammering needed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BMaDOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">air tools are your friend. ball joints come out very easy with an air hammer with a flat bit. you can also install them with the air hammer but be easy on the tops of the bj's, hit the outer edge when going back in.
and you can use a pickle fork but spray some lube first and lift the boot up a little so the fork is under the boot not right threw the center of it. my .02</TD></TR></TABLE>
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and you can use a pickle fork but spray some lube first and lift the boot up a little so the fork is under the boot not right threw the center of it. my .02</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
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I would just take the knuckles out and have a shop push new ones in. It is possible to mess them up while putting them in if you do it wrong.
I just put in a new set of Moog balljoints and they are the best quality of any I've worked with. Boots are thick yet flexible and my ride is much improved.
I just put in a new set of Moog balljoints and they are the best quality of any I've worked with. Boots are thick yet flexible and my ride is much improved.
Naw the stud's been damaged too. So im pretty much screwed. I think i have a set of airtool lying around somewhere. I'll have to find it. Thanks for the help.
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