Blown 60 amp battery fuses
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: San Diego, CA
Recently installed a fuse holder for the pos. power cable of the battery. When I connected everything and started the car, the new fuse immediately blew out. I've tried various fuses with the same result [50 / 60 / 80 fuses]. The car is notorious for draining a battery when I leave it out for a few days without driving it. The alternator is working fine.
Where do I start looking for my problem?
Where do I start looking for my problem?
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: San Diego, CA
For gods sake, DO NOT FUSE THE POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINAL!!!!!!!!!!!
The starter draws at least 250A, which will pop any fuse you put in there. Then, if you start turning crap on, that ups the draw, and will make that fuse get extremely hot, to the point that you could start a fire in the car. That fuse can almost guarantee a fire.
Why would you fuse the starter wire in the first place? If you don't understand that, you shouldn't be rewiring your car.
The starter draws at least 250A, which will pop any fuse you put in there. Then, if you start turning crap on, that ups the draw, and will make that fuse get extremely hot, to the point that you could start a fire in the car. That fuse can almost guarantee a fire.
Why would you fuse the starter wire in the first place? If you don't understand that, you shouldn't be rewiring your car.
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There are two heavy gauge wires running from that terminal, the starter wire, and the battery draw/recharge wire for the entire vehicle. Since you have relocated your battery, I don't know if you have combined them into one for the relocation, but you will need two separate wires running from the battery, one for the starter, the other for everything else.
NONE bro. u should have on wire going straight to the starter and to the main fuse box that is located on the pass shock tower. by the way i would replace the entire POS+ wire, if not ur asking for a fire.
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From: San Diego, CA
Currently the (+) from the battery goes to the distributer block, from the dist.blok to the main fusebox and starter. So what I need to do now is extend the starter cable straight to the battery instead of running it from the dist.blok - then I will be able to add the fuse to the main power cable running to the fusebox.
I don't know why the guy even used an additional fuse for the (+) cable, isn't that what the main fusebox is for?
If the addt'l fuse is really not necessary, can I just get rid of it and keep everything the way it is? instead of extending the starter to the battery?
I don't know why the guy even used an additional fuse for the (+) cable, isn't that what the main fusebox is for?
If the addt'l fuse is really not necessary, can I just get rid of it and keep everything the way it is? instead of extending the starter to the battery?
u could but just clarifying what are u meaning be distributor block?. the way i look at it is OEM. from the battery u have one cable to the starter and it should have one more going to the underhod fusebox. I dont know why Slowcivic2k got all pissed but i always go by Manufacturer recomendations since i do collision repair. the starter draws enough current that a fuse inline of the main wire is un-necessary, i belive there us already a starter fuse in one of the boxes
pretty much his battery is in his trunk. he ran a 4g wire of some sor to the front of the car. the distribution block he speaks of splits the 4g wire into two or more 8g wires (one for the starter, one for the fuse box) as apposed to having this split done on the oem honda battery terminals where there's 2 or 3 wires comming off one lead terminal.
on a side note, is it safe to run 8g all the way from the starter to the trunk of the car for the starter?
on a side note, is it safe to run 8g all the way from the starter to the trunk of the car for the starter?
No, I would highly suggest 4, 2, or 0 gauge wiring. When you increase the distance, you increase the draw, which increases heat, therefor the wiring needs to be larger, or else your gonna burn up the insulation on the wiring.
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