I am trying to fix a 1989 Honda CRX that won't start due to a no spark condition. The condition is caused by the computers signal to the igniter chip - An explanation follows:

The distributor is bran new, but when I take out a plug, hook it up to the coil tower with the cap off and crank, I can see I have no spark. I checked the voltage across the signal wire going into the igniter chip from the computer, and found it is 10.2 when not starting, 9.7 v when cranking. This is not enough of a voltage drop to signal the chip to open the circuit and discharge the coil. When I manually pull the computer signal wire off the igniter chip and tap it against its pin, then I get spark at the plug. Every time the signal from the computer goes from 10.2 to 0v (Because I disconnected the dam wire) the coil discharges and the plug sparks.

For some reason, the computer is not sending a strong enough signal to the chip to allow it to do its job ( or more specifically, it is never shutting off the signal).

I know the coil and igniter work because I can make it spark, and the stator probably works too, because when I disconnect the distributor mechanically, but leave the wires connected, I can twist the distributor shaft manually, and I hear the fuel pump kick on, and the fuel injector fire.

So there is the problem - it sounds like an obvious computer problem, so I replaced the computer with an old one from a junk yard, and found that it made no difference, so I traced the wires feeding signal from the stator to the computer, and the wires from the computer to the igniter. All of them show 0.0 owms resistance or so, so there are no broken wires on the only circuit that could cause this. I am going to try a tested and known good computer next, but if that doesn't work could anyone else offer a suggestion as to what would cause the computers signal to be 10.2 - 9.8 instead of 10.2 - 0?

Help?

 

key ignition doesnt have enough power

 

... I don't understand - I have used several batteries for this, and they are all good fully charged batteries that have no trouble cranking the car. How could the ignition not be getting power, and how would that cause the symptoms listed?

Not trying to argue with you, I just don't understand...

 

just pop the clutch

 

wires runnin to key ignition is probly burn out

 

how would you know new bee

 

i know it's a new dizzy but try replacing the coil.

i once had the same issue but on my b16 swap. spark was there as i see it when i test in the dark but still it won't fire the engine. endless swapping of parts, ecu, igniter, etc. etc but alas, went ok after i replaced the coil(weak) itself.

 

This has been going on for some time - I have been through 3 distributors, 2 separate coils, and 3 separate igniter chips. The constant charging condition that the computer is causing has the side effect of burning out chips and coils - I have purchased several new, tested, known good coils and chips, tried them to no effect, and then tested them again to find them now toasted. I only recently figured out what was causing this, and now I never leave power on to the distributer for more than a few seconds to avoid burning it up.

 

This has been going on for some time - I have been through 3 distributors, 2 separate coils, and 3 separate igniter chips. The constant charging condition that the computer is causing has the side effect of burning out chips and coils - I have purchased several new, tested, known good coils and chips, tried them to no effect, and then tested them again to find them now toasted. I only recently figured out what was causing this, and now I never leave power on to the distributer for more than a few seconds to avoid burning it up.

 

not trying to knock but i am a locksmith and if the car is cranking thats all the key switch does. it dosent send any volt to anything.

 

i would suggest you pull out the main harness from the ecu to the engine itself and start from scratch. i know it's a PITA for our chassis model's harness but it's the only way to find out specially if this car has gone from one owner to another. you'll never know the condition in between those wires from one point to another.

i usually don't mind taking much more time working on the harness instead of troubleshooting and worst, burning/replacing parts. i consider them like our blood veins.

the helm's workshop manual is always your best friend, trust me. i do wire harness conversions for couple of years now, from old civic/crx models, accord, integras, etc. all with engine swaps. and don't just cut, twist and insulate open wires with electrical tape. instead, cut, solder, use shrikable tubes to insulate them and finally cover them with quality high temp electrical tapes.

it has to be tough since the car/engine is always vibrating and tends to loosen connections causing intermittent problems. i know cause at the end of the day, i'm in total control of how the engine behaves when i do lot of street tunes.

 

so what if your a locksmith. what does that have to do with the car no starting. it does sound like a bad coil. genius!!!!!! locksmith vs. ef. lol