dyno problems, wont make anymore power on more boost?
Went to the dyno the other day with my tuner to up the boost on my weekend/drag car. We were going to crank up the boost since I put in some 1000's and a boost controller. About an hour into the tuning session we got 360whp @14psi on a built b16, ITR cams, T70 turbo, Top Mount manifold, 4" downpipe straight to the ground. As we went to crank the boost up to 16-17psi and made 2 more pulls the numbers didnt change at all. We tried pulling timing on a pull then tried adding timing on another, but nothing changed. Me and my tuner were both stumped on why it decided to stop there when it had plenty more in it. I check and felt around on my couplers and on my manifold for any leaks but didnt see anything. Im still puzzled on what it could be.
This was also on a Dynojet that 98%+ used by mustangs and it didnt do a very good job picking up my rpm signal and I got no torque readings also was very hot out around 93-94 degrees
*UPDATE*
Pressure tested my charge piping at 30psi and I found a few small holes. Found 2 around the bov flange, another 2 right after the turbo on one of the charge pipe welds. Then I found the real problem 2 holes the size of headphone jacks that felt like I was blowing an airchuck into my hand. This explains why I would crank up the boost and no power was made because it was all leaking out before actually getting to the motor.
Modified by slotec at 9:28 PM 7/28/2008
This was also on a Dynojet that 98%+ used by mustangs and it didnt do a very good job picking up my rpm signal and I got no torque readings also was very hot out around 93-94 degrees
*UPDATE*
Pressure tested my charge piping at 30psi and I found a few small holes. Found 2 around the bov flange, another 2 right after the turbo on one of the charge pipe welds. Then I found the real problem 2 holes the size of headphone jacks that felt like I was blowing an airchuck into my hand. This explains why I would crank up the boost and no power was made because it was all leaking out before actually getting to the motor.
Modified by slotec at 9:28 PM 7/28/2008
Have you done a pressure test to see if there are any boost leaks anywhere ?
Just by the simple eye you are not going to see the leaks.
Just by the simple eye you are not going to see the leaks.
dyno doesn't need tourque reading to tell you power
Check wategste diaphrams your source should be after cooler
what kind of cooler?? Check that exducer isnt melted any where
and all your vacuum lines are hooked up and correct
also what map sensor
Check wategste diaphrams your source should be after cooler
what kind of cooler?? Check that exducer isnt melted any where
and all your vacuum lines are hooked up and correct
also what map sensor
Im going to try to pressure test it sometime this week. Both times Ive been to that dyno its had a hard time trying to get a good rpm signal. We didnt notice the problem with it not making anymore power until we hooked up the boost controller. The laptop read 17.8psi but my boost guage read about 18-19. All the vaccum lines were checked and hooked up correct. This is a GM 3 Bar map sensor tuning on Neptune RTP
i experienced the same thing a month ago when i was on the dyno. It was a WARM day. and we werent making any power gains. We put a intake on the turbo to help it get cooler air and we instantly gained 90whp with no other changes. Sometimes the small things can rob you of power. What are you IAT's?
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Its a 12x30x3 ebay intercooler and the downpipe comes off the turbo and straight to the ground as well as the dumptube. I just dont get how it could suck in the exhuast with the fans in front of the car on the dyno. Im going to try to make a pressure tester today and check for leaks on couplers and bov. The clutch is a 4 puck competition stage 5
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only T70 i know of is the eBay T70 that is actually a 52mm wheel. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That clutch should be able to hold that power no problem. unless its been used n abused and in need of replacement. I've seen other instances of where people made power to a point with there ebay intercoolers and could not go any further, then replaced the fmic with a garret core and immediately gained a huge amount of power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reaction360 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That clutch should be able to hold that power no problem. unless its been used n abused and in need of replacement. I've seen other instances of where people made power to a point with there ebay intercoolers and could not go any further, then replaced the fmic with a garret core and immediately gained a huge amount of power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I remember someone gaining something like 80whp just on the cooler change.
I remember someone gaining something like 80whp just on the cooler change.
*UPDATE*
Pressure tested my charge piping at 30psi and I found a few small holes. Found 2 around the bov flange, another 2 right after the turbo on one of the charge pipe welds. Then I found the real problem 2 holes the size of headphone jacks that felt like I was blowing an airchuck into my hand. This explains why I would crank up the boost and no power was made because it was all leaking out before actually getting to the motor.
Pressure tested my charge piping at 30psi and I found a few small holes. Found 2 around the bov flange, another 2 right after the turbo on one of the charge pipe welds. Then I found the real problem 2 holes the size of headphone jacks that felt like I was blowing an airchuck into my hand. This explains why I would crank up the boost and no power was made because it was all leaking out before actually getting to the motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slotec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*UPDATE*
Pressure tested my charge piping at 30psi and I found a few small holes. Found 2 around the bov flange, another 2 right after the turbo on one of the charge pipe welds. Then I found the real problem 2 holes the size of headphone jacks that felt like I was blowing an airchuck into my hand. This explains why I would crank up the boost and no power was made because it was all leaking out before actually getting to the motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Get it fixed and go back to the dyno and crank that sucka up !
Pressure tested my charge piping at 30psi and I found a few small holes. Found 2 around the bov flange, another 2 right after the turbo on one of the charge pipe welds. Then I found the real problem 2 holes the size of headphone jacks that felt like I was blowing an airchuck into my hand. This explains why I would crank up the boost and no power was made because it was all leaking out before actually getting to the motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Get it fixed and go back to the dyno and crank that sucka up !
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2fast4u831 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I remember someone gaining something like 80whp just on the cooler change. </TD></TR></TABLE>
darrens car had similar gains and that was going from a PWR intercooler to a T1 intercooler....
I remember someone gaining something like 80whp just on the cooler change. </TD></TR></TABLE>darrens car had similar gains and that was going from a PWR intercooler to a T1 intercooler....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Humble Performance »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Get it fixed and go back to the dyno and crank that sucka up !</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2, get it back on the rollers now that you got the piping problem fixed, Marcus. but I'd swap out the IC first. Try a TR10 from Treadstone. I switched from a 28x7x2.5 Ebay IC to a TR8 from them, and it worked wonders! The fin density was MUCH better than the Ebay unit. My IAT's were 132+ DEGREES with that Ebay cooler!
Here ya go: http://www.treadstoneperforman...olers
Get it fixed and go back to the dyno and crank that sucka up !</TD></TR></TABLE>X2, get it back on the rollers now that you got the piping problem fixed, Marcus. but I'd swap out the IC first. Try a TR10 from Treadstone. I switched from a 28x7x2.5 Ebay IC to a TR8 from them, and it worked wonders! The fin density was MUCH better than the Ebay unit. My IAT's were 132+ DEGREES with that Ebay cooler!
Here ya go: http://www.treadstoneperforman...olers
the intercooler is fine for now my buddy made 700whp in his supra with the same intercooler. Im saving for a T1 intercooler.
Other than that Im getting a hondata IM gasket and putting the piping back on since I just got it fixed tonite. Now Im ready for 30psi
Other than that Im getting a hondata IM gasket and putting the piping back on since I just got it fixed tonite. Now Im ready for 30psi




