D-Series...ITB's...Codes 5-10-14
So I picked up some ITB's and got bored so i put em on my y7 in my 91 Si... like it says im throwing codes 5, 10, and 14... i know it needs to be converted to obd1 to be tuned right and i have a z6 waiting for that... i just wanted to know what you ITB guys did with the air intake temp sensor, Idle air control sensor, and i guess its throwing MAP sensor?? any help appreciated...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFstyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i just wanted to know what you ITB guys did with the air intake temp sensor, Idle air control sensor, and i guess its throwing MAP sensor?? any help appreciated...</TD></TR></TABLE>
the question is what did you do with those sensors?
the question is what did you do with those sensors?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFstyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no. I was asking what YOU did with them? left them out entirely?
</TD></TR></TABLE>no. I was asking what YOU did with them? left them out entirely?
uhh... left them pluged in but just unbolted from the a6 mani... i fixed the MAP sensor problem but the IACV and the IAT sensors are still a problem... its not throwing any codes at all anymore but its still running pretty shitty. can you turn off the IAT sensor with chrome like you can with the IACV? thanks
i turned my iacv off with crome pro, ran the temp sensor to my airbox (i have a carbon airbox fitted over my stacks) and as for the map sensor, i made a vacuum canister to feed my brake booster, and i ran a line off the canister to feed the map sensor.
the problem is, with itb's as soon as you touch the throttle, the map sensor sees atmospheric pressure, as vacuum drops to 0. so at "tip-in" throttle, the map is telling the computer WFO (wide f%*kin open) and the tps is telling the ecu tip in, so the ecu gets confused and thinks somethings wrong. Long story short, you have to be tuned properly or its just not going to work properly.
good luck and cheers
the problem is, with itb's as soon as you touch the throttle, the map sensor sees atmospheric pressure, as vacuum drops to 0. so at "tip-in" throttle, the map is telling the computer WFO (wide f%*kin open) and the tps is telling the ecu tip in, so the ecu gets confused and thinks somethings wrong. Long story short, you have to be tuned properly or its just not going to work properly.
good luck and cheers
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iskate2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i turned my iacv off with crome pro, ran the temp sensor to my airbox (i have a carbon airbox fitted over my stacks) and as for the map sensor, i made a vacuum canister to feed my brake booster, and i ran a line off the canister to feed the map sensor.
the problem is, with itb's as soon as you touch the throttle, the map sensor sees atmospheric pressure, as vacuum drops to 0. so at "tip-in" throttle, the map is telling the computer WFO (wide f%*kin open) and the tps is telling the ecu tip in, so the ecu gets confused and thinks somethings wrong. Long story short, you have to be tuned properly or its just not going to work properly.
good luck and cheers</TD></TR></TABLE>
Answers ive been trying to get from honda-tech for months!! thanks alot!
EDIT!! another question... do your brakes feel the same as a standard intake manifold setup? im planning on autoxing the car so brake feel is very important
the problem is, with itb's as soon as you touch the throttle, the map sensor sees atmospheric pressure, as vacuum drops to 0. so at "tip-in" throttle, the map is telling the computer WFO (wide f%*kin open) and the tps is telling the ecu tip in, so the ecu gets confused and thinks somethings wrong. Long story short, you have to be tuned properly or its just not going to work properly.
good luck and cheers</TD></TR></TABLE>
Answers ive been trying to get from honda-tech for months!! thanks alot!
EDIT!! another question... do your brakes feel the same as a standard intake manifold setup? im planning on autoxing the car so brake feel is very important
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFstyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Answers ive been trying to get from honda-tech for months!! thanks alot!
EDIT!! another question... do your brakes feel the same as a standard intake manifold setup? im planning on autoxing the car so brake feel is very important</TD></TR></TABLE>
the brakes should be fine. the brake booster stores pressure for quite awhile, even with turbo setups the brakes are ok
Answers ive been trying to get from honda-tech for months!! thanks alot!
EDIT!! another question... do your brakes feel the same as a standard intake manifold setup? im planning on autoxing the car so brake feel is very important</TD></TR></TABLE>
the brakes should be fine. the brake booster stores pressure for quite awhile, even with turbo setups the brakes are ok
ya my brakes feel fine. I didnt know the exact rule, so i tried to estimate the volume of the active side of the booster, and make my vacuum canister about the same volume. it makes a funny sound when i brake like a vacuum leak, but my vacuum is pretty steady on the gauge and everything seems to be ok. Response is there during trail-braking as well.
... and if you have questions on calculating the volume for your canister, send me a message.
Cheers!
... and if you have questions on calculating the volume for your canister, send me a message.
Cheers!
FYI: Brake boosters typically holds enough vacuum for 2 assisted full-travel presses of the pedal.
What ITB's did you use?
The IAT should be fine plugged in and zip-tied up near the ITB's or firewall.
What ITB's did you use?
The IAT should be fine plugged in and zip-tied up near the ITB's or firewall.
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