Can anyone offer a calibration file for Neptune RTP which will run my H22 with Type-S pistons and cams safe to drive, so I can get to the tuners.

I'm told a JDM P72 base map with an additional overall fuel % added should be ok. But how much %age to add? I'm getting the RTP tomorrow so need a solution...

 

2.2 liters is about 22% bigger than a 1.8L

I'd say add 16-22% to the fuel maps and see how it runs at idle.

As long as you dont put a whole lot of load on the motor, you cant hurt it.

 

ok. Neptune RTP worked faultlessly. I installed the usb drivers and set the serial no. in the software and it all connected up with no trouble. I have tried 2 maps so far, the first was a JDM P72 basecode with some H22 fuel and ignition tables from crome. This started the car and idled ok until it warmed up, then it was difficult and wanted to die and was running rich, I could smell fuel. This map was a bit of a stab in the dark (using settings from crome) so I decided to go with xenocron's suggestion of a P72 with some fuel added. So I uploaded a JDM P72 base map with a 20% fuel overall trim (based on 1797cc->2157cc = 20%). This started ok but idles a bit low around 680rpm when its warmed up. However, this is all I have to go on at the moment. A nice Neptune RTP H22 base map would be great though.

I then discovered when trying to fit it all back that the integra/civic ecu is different shape to the P13 and none of the securing bolt holes line up. I wasn't expecting that. So I eventually got it all back in with a zip tie and 1 bolt aligned up. I'll have to do a better job later.

Where are all the H22 maps for Neptune RTP. Anyone care to share a nice decent map?

 

Ive uploaded one for you too the neptune calibration repository.

 

Thanks, I'll check it out. Much appreciated.

 

ok. I've loaded up the map for the stock h22 and it runs. However the idle is very low (650rpm) when its warmed up and it wants to stall when I let off the gas. I've enabled closed loop and it seems a little better. I could not check the base timing to sync with neptune as fixing it @ 16 in neptune made it not idle. I couldn't start the car for more than a second without it stalling. Is this because the timing isn't sync'd? Actual timing at idle was = map 25 actual 32.5 in the datalog. I adjusted the IACV duty up to 20 but it didn't change the idle at all. Any pointers?

 

On reflection I amended your map to enable the option "ignition adjustments" before I had tried it. So now I have it switched off, like your map to see if it is any better. I also up'd the iacv to 60% to improve the idle. I tried closed loop off and it idled worse, so I have it back enabled now.

Can I see rich and lean at all from the stock o2 voltages? It seems to be 0 when idling and only climbs when I blip the throttle.

Are the injectors on 95 Prelude BB1's 310 or 330?

 

You shouldn't need that much timing at idle.

0 is lean, 1 is rich.

340cc iirc.

 

0volts on the narrowband (stock) O2 sensor is lean.
0.8volts or higher on the narrowband is rich.

Start with a stock P72 basemap.

Disable closed loop.

If you have to do this with a narrowband O2 sensor I would recommend trying to get it to idle @ 0.5-0.7 volts when <U>warmed up</u> without changing any of the individual fuel cells in the stock P72 basemap. Simply change all of them by a percentage to get it to idle correctly. Now it is critical that you are making "global" adjustments by percentage and not simply increasing or decreasing the numers.

For example..... If you add 10% to the entire stock basemap and it idles @ 0volts then it is still lean. so try adding another 10% and see what happens. the trick here is to make the % adjustment to the entire map not only the idle portion of the map. This way the entire map will be in the neighborhood of being tuned and the engine will never be at any risk when you are figuring out the % to add or subtract because you are doing all of the guess work @ idle when its pretty much impossible to hurt anything.

Then simply keep adjusting the % on the entire map up and down until the car idles between 0.5-0.7 volts. This may take a little while but it will be worth the effort. Once you get to this point you can turn closed loop back on and you should be able to drive it to the tuner without any problems. It still is not tuned and you should drive it very easy. But at least this way it will idle and drive pretty good. If you want to spend even more time you can repeat the process at different part throttle load conditions but it shouldn't be necessary as long as you mad a % adjustment to the entire map.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks Tomdata. I will try that this evening.

One more thing, should I be making any changes to the injector calibrations. i.e. stock 240 --&gt; new 340 or should I leave them stock at 240 / 240 before I start with this overall fuel %age? Also, what about "ignition adjustments"? on or off.

 

Leaving it at 240 will start you off a bit rich. Then you can tone it down from there with a negative percentage in the overall trim.

Leave adjustments on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tim.simpson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Tomdata. I will try that this evening.

One more thing, should I be making any changes to the injector calibrations. i.e. stock 240 --&gt; new 340 or should I leave them stock at 240 / 240 before I start with this overall fuel %age? Also, what about "ignition adjustments"? on or off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can do it either way. Personally I prefer to do this with the injector size to get close and then use % adjustments on the map to get it perfect.

 

ok. Thanks for all your help here, some of it is paying off.
I've had another play tonight and I got the stock o2 voltage to 0.8 when warmed up with -9% overall fuel trim. However if I went -10 the o2 voltage dropped nearer to zero, so couldn't get it any nearer to 0.5-0.7 range. If I enabled "Closed Loop" at this point the o2 voltage dropped to zero and the idle was lower. It didn't like it which was a surprise.

So, if I tried again but this time alter the injector sizes to get it close then I could use the overall fuel trim maybe a little more accurate. What do you think? Should I leave stock injector to 240 and set the new injector to 340? What does this actually do anyway?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tim.simpson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok. Thanks for all your help here, some of it is paying off.
I've had another play tonight and I got the stock o2 voltage to 0.8 when warmed up with -9% overall fuel trim. However if I went -10 the o2 voltage dropped nearer to zero, so couldn't get it any nearer to 0.5-0.7 range. If I enabled "Closed Loop" at this point the o2 voltage dropped to zero and the idle was lower. It didn't like it which was a surprise.

So, if I tried again but this time alter the injector sizes to get it close then I could use the overall fuel trim maybe a little more accurate. What do you think? Should I leave stock injector to 240 and set the new injector to 340? What does this actually do anyway? </TD></TR></TABLE>

now its time to try -9.5 or-9.75 or-9.4. You don't have to use whole numbers. keep messing with it.. You will get there buddy.

 

I did try decimal places, but the RTP software rounded it up! So can't use decimals?

 

On that particular map the ignition adjustments are disable at a certain load value. Have you been able to set base timing on the car at all? This can make it very hard to make the car idle if base timing is way off. Ive used this map for several base maps on H22's and very little needed to be done to get the car to idle solid once base timing was set. A/F at idle was around 14.5-15.0.

 

Ok. that is exactly what I have done today. Rotated engine over on the crank bolt until I was able to see the timing marks on my new 12lb flywheel. There was 3 stamped dots, the middle one marked 15. Then before these 3 there is the 1 for the TDC about 1.5inches away. Great, so on I went.

I started with a new P72 map. Got it to idle ok once it warmed up, then set the ignition locked @ 16 in the software. I got my timing light out and setup then checked the timing. It was timed up to the TDC mark!! So I rotated the distibutor slightly and the 3 other marks then came into view on the flywheel!! However, at full adjustment on the distributor slots I could only just get the pointer to time up to the first dot of the 3 which would be 14? the mark nearest to TDC. Is it 14-15-16 as the flywheel marks. The distributor is brand new but not genuine Honda item, could it be the slots need enlarging?

Anyway, with the timing adjusted nearer to where it should be, I amended the map to have 240 stock injectors and 340 new injectors, then I settled on an overall fuel adjustment of 20 which it seemed to get the o2 voltages hovering from 0.2 to 0.7. Then I enabled closed loop, which initially lowered the voltages back down but after 30 secs or so it went back to 0.4-0.7.

That is where I am now. I need to sort out why I can't adjust the distributor to sync it with neptune.... It can't be right on max adjustment either way.

Anyone?


Modified by tim.simpson at 2:56 PM 8/1/2008

 

If you can't sync it in the distributor, you can set the base timing in preferences to match. The maps will then reflect the real value.

 

Sorry, I'm being thick. What do I need to do exactly?

Is this right?
I have the distributor set all the way to the firewall and can just see the first mark of o-o-o marks (middle dot is stamped 15) in the timing pointer. I assume the first mark will be 14 as its the first one after the TDC mark, then 15, then 16. I think it will just about be aligned on 14 with the timing sight. This is with the base timing in preferences set to 16. So do I set the base timing in preferences to 14 so that the software and mechanical timing are the same?

Or can someone explain how I can sync it up another way so the distributor isn't all the way adjusted?