I need some help please. I have a 1997 honda civic that is pulling when I have the ac on. I bought a new compressor and it did not work. I am wondering if it could be the idle speed sensor. Any advise would be nice.

 

Take it from MuffinMan:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It may be because you have a Honda Accord stuck in your suspension...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

what is it pulling? or where is it pulling???

 

Well when I am driving you can feel the idle drop and then release. It rides really rough with the ac on. It rides fine without the ac. I hated spending $350 on the compressor and it did not fix the problem. Do you think it could be the idle speed sensor or throttle speed solenoid?

 

Do you have any answers for me? Also when my car drives this way it eats alot of gas. Help please.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sara1946 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Do you think it could be the idle speed sensor or throttle speed solenoid?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Neither of those parts exist on your car. First, have you performed a full tune-up recently? Make sure your distributor and cam timing is set properly. Your car has an Idle Air Control Valve. Make sure it's passages are unobstructed and clean.

 

Thanks this is what I have decided to do. I really appreciate your help.

 

before you do anything ask yourself some simple questions.

1. Do you understand how an a/c system works?
2. Do you know your honda civic is not powerful?
3. Do you know it takes power away from the engine when running a/c?
4. Do you know this loss of power from running a/c results in lower idle speed (vibrating most likely) and less fuel mileage (hence everyone says keep the a/c off for fuel economy)

The answers are as follows:

1. The a/c system runs off of a drive pulley attached to the crank of your car and when off the pulley is disengaged by the a/c clutch when a/c is off effectively having no power loss while disengaged.
2. We all know this. thats why we get good mileage
3. While that a/c clutch is engaged the compressor working to make you cold uses power from somewhere to operate. that power comes from your engine.
4. Kind of self explanatory the way it was said.

This is common on all cars with small displacement. Its just a small drawback of gas mileage and small parking spaces.

 

exactly what DavefromPA said......

plus, check to make sure the AC belt isn't too tight. One time I installed the AC belt too tight and the car ran like crap with the AC on. There was a rediculous loss in power and the RPMS would drop really fast inbetween shifts making the car almost stall. for me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by davefromPA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">before you do anything ask yourself some simple questions.

4. Do you know this loss of power from running a/c results in lower idle speed (vibrating most likely) and less fuel mileage (hence everyone says keep the a/c off for fuel economy)

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Do you know there are specific idle-up routines within the ECU's programming based on alternator load and AC compressor load?

The reason I asked about the state of tune of the engine was for this reason. If the engine is in proper mechanical condition, it is time to see if the ECU is getting the AC switch signal on pin C5. If it is, then it would be a good idea to swap in a known good P2P or P2E ECU based on the trim level of the car to see if that resolves the issue.

The AC running will bog the car somewhat as it uses about 4 horsepower to turn the compressor, but if everything is functioning properly the idle with the compressor on should not be that much worse than with it off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you know there are specific idle-up routines within the ECU's programming based on alternator load and AC compressor load?

The reason I asked about the state of tune of the engine was for this reason. If the engine is in proper mechanical condition, it is time to see if the ECU is getting the AC switch signal on pin C5. If it is, then it would be a good idea to swap in a known good P2P or P2E ECU based on the trim level of the car to see if that resolves the issue.

The AC running will bog the car somewhat as it uses about 4 horsepower to turn the compressor, but if everything is functioning properly the idle with the compressor on should not be that much worse than with it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

^ i know that but even on the misses new corolla the car drops rpms, eats gas, and sucks all together when the a/c is on. on every 4 cylinder car i have ever been in or driven, the rpms have dropped and it has this vibration when the a/c is on. it is a fundamental problem with these tiny engines. i know you agree with this and were just adding another part to the mix explaining the tune-up you suggested.

your sig is awesome btw