Hey guys, need some help here lol. I just purchased the JD2 tube notcher along with the JD2 tube bender. The problem I'm having is trying to figure out the angles when notching, so far I've wasted alot of material learning. One of the problems i have was notching a straight piece of tube to reflect each other on both ends. I try to eyeball it right before I notch but i seem to always be off a hair or two and that messes with my fitment (big gaps). So far Ive tried marking the tube with a straight edge along the whole tube end to end, I tried notching one side and holding a piece of tube with a level in the notch still no luck. Also what technique do you guy use to figure out the angle to notch ie the door bars ( the bar that goes from the main hoop to the A bar)

 

http://www.vansantent.com/angl...s.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k24em2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.vansantent.com/angl...s.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats a nice tool, ok that helps with one problem lol

 

i think he meant to post this link http://vansantent.com/pipemaster.htm

 

for almost 30 years I have been using 2 pcs of 1/8 x1 flat aluminum stock with a 1/4 inch hole drilled in one end and bolt them together. Use a flat washer between the pcs and on each side. The flat washer will allow you to tighten the bolt pretty tight so it won't move without a good amount of force. You can make them with different length legs IE one leg 10 the other 18 one other with shorter legs for the tighter areas. It you need to know the angle you can clamp it in a vise and use a angle gauge to figure it out. I also use these same tools to make the bends in cages. You don't need complicated ****. I use the tool make the first bend taking my measurement off of the bender so that I can duplicate it on the other side. If you lay that tool on top of the bender and use your eye along the edge of the tube you can do very accurate work. Just make sure you take the measurements before you release the material from the bender. If you bend it in steps ( meaning bend it take it out and bend it some more) you will need to do that on both sides to guarrantee the bends come out the same. On the other hand if you find that you over bent it and need to tweak it do the same for both sides.

If you have a ? about the tool email me and I'll send you a pic.

 

i have the same thing , mine was made from a paint mixing stick.

home depot sells them for under $10

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ROTARY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think he meant to post this link http://vansantent.com/pipemaster.htm

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son of a fvcking bitch. i thought i invented those.

seriously. one of the attorneys i work with was getting the paperwork started to on a provisional patent. goddammit, i always come up with good ideas but well after the fact.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KFMRC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for almost 30 years I have been using 2 pcs of 1/8 x1 flat aluminum stock with a 1/4 inch hole drilled in one end and bolt them together. Use a flat washer between the pcs and on each side. The flat washer will allow you to tighten the bolt pretty tight so it won't move without a good amount of force. You can make them with different length legs IE one leg 10 the other 18 one other with shorter legs for the tighter areas. It you need to know the angle you can clamp it in a vise and use a angle gauge to figure it out. I also use these same tools to make the bends in cages. You don't need complicated ****. I use the tool make the first bend taking my measurement off of the bender so that I can duplicate it on the other side. If you lay that tool on top of the bender and use your eye along the edge of the tube you can do very accurate work. Just make sure you take the measurements before you release the material from the bender. If you bend it in steps ( meaning bend it take it out and bend it some more) you will need to do that on both sides to guarrantee the bends come out the same. On the other hand if you find that you over bent it and need to tweak it do the same for both sides.

If you have a ? about the tool email me and I'll send you a pic. </TD></TR></TABLE>

can you post a pic. i'm having a hard time imagining what you are talking about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.E.G. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

can you post a pic. i'm having a hard time imagining what you are talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah me to

 

http://vansantent.com/pipemaster.htm
http://www.vansantent.com/angl...s.htm


Actually both tools do something different and both are great. Searching around I found this link from the Extreme 4x4 tv series

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/...notch/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.E.G. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
can you post a pic. i'm having a hard time imagining what you are talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>



He's basically talking about that (called a sliding bevel, available at your local hardware store). make one with longer legs and you can get a good idea of what angle you need to bend pipes to when building tube frames/cages/whatever. Big fan of the wingnut.

As for notching I use a big ol' vice, a v-block, and a bridgeport. But I'm fly like that. :D

 

GOOD JOB Niles

you have it. That is it I just don't use the sliding feature. You don't need it to slide. I do also have 2 of those. One was my dads and is about 50 years old. All metal stanley!!! 2 pcs of stock hole in each on one end bolt them together and you have it angle them to whatever you need. Make a couple different sizes. The wingnut is OK but I prefer a bolt with a nylock nut and a dab of locktight. This way you can move the legs and not have the wingnut always try to loosen. The wingnut works on the "adjustable bevel square" the correct name for what you pictured because the blade slides and rotates between the pcs of plastic.

Another tool that can take the place of the fancy protractor that clamps to the tube is use a large vise grip with a flat welded to it and set it up level then flip the material around and measure the angle. The vise doesn't need to slid over the end either like that tools does. Grind the sharp teeth slightly so the tube doesn't get all marked up.

I use a horizontal mill for fish mouthing and there is nothing better. takes about 5 seconds to fishmouth a pc of 1 3/4 .120 and you can easily sneak up on a fit that is difficult because its a milling machine and not a holesaw.


Have fun guys

 

Hi everyone I would like to turn my home depot Ryobi belt sander into a notcher for some 1.5 tubing but I'm having a hard time finding anything to use for a 1.5" contact wheel. Does anyone have any suggestions for a 1.5" contact wheel?

thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ROTARY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think he meant to post this link http://vansantent.com/pipemaster.htm

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I tried making one of these yesterday out of 1.5" pvc pipe and 1/16 4043 filler that I never used I used whatever I had lying around and the holes were just a
TOUCH too big so the filler slides all over the place. but it kinda works lol

 

We do a lot of tube notching here at my shop. If you have any specific questions, feel free to give me a call or shoot me an email.

We use slide ruler/bevel, digital & mechanical angle finders, & levels. It's one of those things that you need to do a lot of to be effecient.

For the most part, I've already got jigs built & we just repeat notches for production runs.

Like these:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Desir Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys, need some help here lol. I just purchased the JD2 tube notcher along with the JD2 tube bender. The problem I'm having is trying to figure out the angles when notching, so far I've wasted alot of material learning. One of the problems i have was notching a straight piece of tube to reflect each other on both ends. I try to eyeball it right before I notch but i seem to always be off a hair or two and that messes with my fitment (big gaps). So far Ive tried marking the tube with a straight edge along the whole tube end to end, I tried notching one side and holding a piece of tube with a level in the notch still no luck. Also what technique do you guy use to figure out the angle to notch ie the door bars ( the bar that goes from the main hoop to the A bar) </TD></TR></TABLE>

To figure out a door bar u could tape a piece of string mimicking how you want the door bar to be then measure the appropriate angles with a protractor in relation to the main hoop and a-pillars... trim the tube down using that angle until the bar fits... it wont fit right until its at the correct length... the notches will look wrong until that point...

to match 2 sides theres a lot of ways... sticking a pipe in the notched side and leveling it works... if it didnt work for u... then u didnt level it right. many bars look as though they have notches at the same angle but dont. for these i put the bar next to the bar it will be conecting too... too long of course... and draw a line where the inner most point of the notch will sit on the tube to get notched... then i line that up in the machine. i do use an endmill machine so it does make it a bit easier to trim up tubing if your off the 1st time... die grinder works but sucks at the same time 2... best advice is just to keep doing it... its gets easier over time...

 

Another trick I forgot to mention.

We keep a 5 gallon bucket around with different notched tubes in it.

We'll cut a piece of scrap tube to say 8", then we'll put a 10 Degree notch on one side & a 15 Degree notch on the other.

Then we'll make a 20 & 25 tube, a 30 & 35 tube, etc....

We'll pull these out to get us close to the angles we need & then go from there. It makes putting together custom projects very quick!

 

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=...lated


http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=ifHRK37Yf4E

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FPV_GTp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=...lated


http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=ifHRK37Yf4E</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow like a hot knife through butter lol, but I don't see how those would work for a fab shop or chassi shop. It looks like it can work best with straight pieces.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K.O.R.E. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Another trick I forgot to mention.

We keep a 5 gallon bucket around with different notched tubes in it.

We'll cut a piece of scrap tube to say 8", then we'll put a 10 Degree notch on one side & a 15 Degree notch on the other.

Then we'll make a 20 & 25 tube, a 30 & 35 tube, etc....

We'll pull these out to get us close to the angles we need & then go from there. It makes putting together custom projects very quick!</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, thats a great idea. i'm gonna try that, thanks.
-dennis

 

Hi


I use a mill and a lathe for notching very time consuming also have a straight pipe/tube notcher and also a hole saw compound angle notcher.


hole saw type notchers

Notch Master Tube Notcher http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=QnubbAFVObQ

Tube Notcher http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=...lated

Notch Master http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=...lated


Abrasive Tubing Notcher & Grinder , Disc Sanding type

Notcher Grinding Machine http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=...lated

http://www.henneymo.com/produc...0.htm

mill machine type

Baileigh Model 800 Tubing Notcher http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=...lated


lathe type tube

Here is a DIY unit you could make yourself if you have a lathe at work
http://www.postdiluvian.org/~m...tcher/

have THE WORLD'S BEST TUBING NOTCHER http://www.torchmate.com/tubenoch.html

http://www.stagesmith.com/gall....html


These guys at http://www.mittlerbros.com have some awesome machinery/tools and parts they fabricate but not cheap

1. http://www.mittlerbros.com/Ult...d.htm
2. http://www.mittlerbros.com/Ult...d.htm
3. http://www.mittlerbros.com/tub...e.htm
4. http://www.mittlerbros.com/tub...e.htm

and their pipemaster is a excellant tool to find out angles http://www.mittlerbros.com/tube_notcher_acc.htm PipeMaster - Great way to calculate your notches before wasting any tubing


Pipe Notchers & Tube Notchers http://www.mtechsales.com/products/Notchers/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FPV_GTp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lathe type tube

Here is a DIY unit you could make yourself if you have a lathe at work
http://www.postdiluvian.org/~m...tcher/
</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is awesome. might have to build one of them