Busted mount section, is this fixable..???
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Busted mount section, is this fixable..???
Well its a B18B1 and i'm gettin it for a great deal if this is fixable, just wanna make sure before a struggle of getting it here takes place... Pic is self explanatory lol... I posted in Welding section also but it hasnt even been viewed yet so im sure it'll get noticed here asap... Let's see wassup..!!
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From: DFW, tx, usa
Re: Busted mount section, is this fixable..??? (JDM_SOHC)
Well i have to say that is pretty bad, I dont really have alot of knowlage about welding but I do know one thing and no matter how good of a weld it will never be as strong as the cast was. but givin that you still have two good ones it might hold if you can find somone to weld it back. do you have the rest of the block that is missing?
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Re: Busted mount section, is this fixable..??? (gsrhatch2356)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lluks_844 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it just the one hole or are they all messed up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
just that one hole is messed up... theres like a hairline crack thats through the center going from the top left bolt to bottom one...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pepsiDX20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen stuff that bad rewelded. It do-able.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and reliable..??
just that one hole is messed up... theres like a hairline crack thats through the center going from the top left bolt to bottom one...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pepsiDX20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen stuff that bad rewelded. It do-able.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and reliable..??
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From: maryland
actually the weld will be much stronger then the cast aluminum assuming its prepared and penetrates properly. Take it to a Professional.
oh and, it will probably need to be drilled and re tapped
oh and, it will probably need to be drilled and re tapped
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Re: (ifIexplode)
Well it's actually my cousins motor and its for sale, but he's not sure if it can be fixed neither am i, and im plannin on going to B series with my hatch and can snag up this LS longblock for the low low but i dont want to waste my money if it cant be fixed ya kno... wasn't sure if anyone ran into this before...
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From: Linden, N.J., USA
Re: (JDM_SOHC)
It can be fixed I've seen worse but ill be honest with you don't go putting a crazy amount of torque on that bitch and make sure you use all your mounts just in case it gives. Its all going to depend on how good the welder is.
I would take this to a machine shop so they can weld it and fill the hole with aluminum then drill and re thread hole that would be the proper way to do it.
The 2 upper hole though are plenty strong to hold the motor to be honest just the third is a safety.
I would take this to a machine shop so they can weld it and fill the hole with aluminum then drill and re thread hole that would be the proper way to do it.
The 2 upper hole though are plenty strong to hold the motor to be honest just the third is a safety.
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From: brownsburg, in, usa
Re: (JDM_SOHC)
i think its fixable.....
if the other 2 bolt holes are actually bolt holes then i would say it should be fine.
have a professional welder do it... and what i would do is get a hardened bolt to the same threads and long shaft that way you can have the welder guy weld the block and try to weld the bolt inplace as well then cut the end of the bolt off and get a hardened nut to fit the threads sticking out from the motor mount once you slide it on. and just be carefull when torquing down the bolt and other bolts when you reattach the motor mount!
not a huge issue i wouldnt say....
BUT i would try to get the motor cheap as posible.LOL
non the less youd still have a good head and all the other parts.. all over the motor so you can always look out for a plain block that probably had a busted timing belt damaging the head and internals so you might get a steal on it....
IMO worth afew hundred bucks as-is
if the other 2 bolt holes are actually bolt holes then i would say it should be fine.
have a professional welder do it... and what i would do is get a hardened bolt to the same threads and long shaft that way you can have the welder guy weld the block and try to weld the bolt inplace as well then cut the end of the bolt off and get a hardened nut to fit the threads sticking out from the motor mount once you slide it on. and just be carefull when torquing down the bolt and other bolts when you reattach the motor mount!
not a huge issue i wouldnt say....
BUT i would try to get the motor cheap as posible.LOL
non the less youd still have a good head and all the other parts.. all over the motor so you can always look out for a plain block that probably had a busted timing belt damaging the head and internals so you might get a steal on it....
IMO worth afew hundred bucks as-is
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From: Spring City, PA, US of A
Re: (JDM_SOHC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So would paying about 150-200 bucks for it be worth it..?? Cuz i dunno how much i should expect to see when payin to fix that..</TD></TR></TABLE>
eh....I'd think $150 tops...the chance that it won't hold or adding the cost of having a professional repair it will decrease what its worth...maybe if its low miles or a fresh rebuild but atleast around here LS motors can be [icked up fro that price normally in decent condition
eh....I'd think $150 tops...the chance that it won't hold or adding the cost of having a professional repair it will decrease what its worth...maybe if its low miles or a fresh rebuild but atleast around here LS motors can be [icked up fro that price normally in decent condition
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From: Vaughan, ontario, canada
Re: (Loserkidwac)
im in the same place as u 
i got a 2000 jdm gsr with 110 thow km on it with the same problem mine still got threads but its got a hair line crack the motor is so mind almost makes me cry looking at it
i got a 2000 jdm gsr with 110 thow km on it with the same problem mine still got threads but its got a hair line crack the motor is so mind almost makes me cry looking at it
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From: Warrenville, IL, US
Re: (JDM_SOHC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So would paying about 150-200 bucks for it be worth it..?? Cuz i dunno how much i should expect to see when payin to fix that..</TD></TR></TABLE>
[freak] no. $150-200 is a rip off.
I paid $250 for a full, 100% longblock, with wiring harness, and mounts with 77K on it out of a 1996 Acura Integra LS.
Also, noone has mentioned this, but Aluminium is a BITCH to weld, and not cheap to weld either. You would need a professional to do it, with professional grade materials, neither of which is cheap.
That block is scrap IMO, $100 at the most for the head assuming thats not wrecked.
[freak] no. $150-200 is a rip off.
I paid $250 for a full, 100% longblock, with wiring harness, and mounts with 77K on it out of a 1996 Acura Integra LS.
Also, noone has mentioned this, but Aluminium is a BITCH to weld, and not cheap to weld either. You would need a professional to do it, with professional grade materials, neither of which is cheap.
That block is scrap IMO, $100 at the most for the head assuming thats not wrecked.
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Re: (Dasfinc)
Yeah i was wonderin how much is to much... I mean it was boostin 10psi fully tuned stock internals and ran great... But my cousin wanted to up the boost and got a deal on a jdm B18B so he just took that bitch out and threw the JDM swap in there an is boostin.. He doesn't wanna rape me on the price but at the same time the motor was runnin good even with that peice broken like that so that's his stand point... i'm just not sure how much u can trust weld, when it comes to high HP levels and large amounts of TQ....
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Re: (JDM_SOHC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah i was wonderin how much is to much... I mean it was boostin 10psi fully tuned stock internals and ran great... But my cousin wanted to up the boost and got a deal on a jdm B18B so he just took that bitch out and threw the JDM swap in there an is boostin.. He doesn't wanna rape me on the price but at the same time the motor was runnin good even with that peice broken like that so that's his stand point... i'm just not sure how much u can trust weld, when it comes to high HP levels and large amounts of TQ....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, BIG RED FLAG!!!!
Don't buy a motor that you know was boosted, Don't matter if its from someone you know, Boost puts a HUGE strain on motors, Even with a good tune.
If he's truely a friend/relative, Offer him $50 for it, and call it a day, If he says yes, you got a worth-while deal, just JB weld the [freak] out of the mount, If he says no, Let him Sell it for scrap/parts.
Dude, BIG RED FLAG!!!!
Don't buy a motor that you know was boosted, Don't matter if its from someone you know, Boost puts a HUGE strain on motors, Even with a good tune.
If he's truely a friend/relative, Offer him $50 for it, and call it a day, If he says yes, you got a worth-while deal, just JB weld the [freak] out of the mount, If he says no, Let him Sell it for scrap/parts.
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Re: (Dasfinc)
Oh no bro, im building it... It's not going to be a direct replacement lol, its gonna be my future heart transplanted LS/Vtec Turbo, i just figured i could get the longblock for a good deal if it was salvagable, but it's almost seeming cheaper to go B series considering my D15B swap I bought for $525 shipped is now $800 just for the [freak]in swap..!! I guess I shoulda figured since gas is goin up so is everything else, but why are B20 longblocks and LS longblocks still around $700-800 and the JDM single cam's are the same if not more haha... And yeah i supposed I could just buy it and than salvage what's usable onto whatever else but the main reason I was buying it was for the block...
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Re: (JDM_SOHC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I shoulda figured since gas is goin up so is everything else, but why are B20 longblocks and LS longblocks still around $700-800 and the JDM single cam's are the same if not more haha...</TD></TR></TABLE>
No offense, but think about that for a second.
JDM, Japanese Domestic Market.
For reference, it costs my company approximately $200 to ship a 50lb package to Canada via Fedex Ground.
D15B's are Plentiful in Japan because they are a common motor, so they would probably only be $2-300 bux in Japan converted, but by the time it gets over here, and by the time everyone makes some money, you are paying $700+ for it.
B18A/B's and B20's are plentiful in the USA, granted they are 'stronger', they are Common, and readily available, hence their low price.
I only paid $800 for my FULL B18B1 swap, Motor, Trans, Axles and all.
($430 for Trans/Linkage/Clutch/etc, and $250 for the longblock + Extra crap)
No offense, but think about that for a second.
JDM, Japanese Domestic Market.
For reference, it costs my company approximately $200 to ship a 50lb package to Canada via Fedex Ground.
D15B's are Plentiful in Japan because they are a common motor, so they would probably only be $2-300 bux in Japan converted, but by the time it gets over here, and by the time everyone makes some money, you are paying $700+ for it.
B18A/B's and B20's are plentiful in the USA, granted they are 'stronger', they are Common, and readily available, hence their low price.
I only paid $800 for my FULL B18B1 swap, Motor, Trans, Axles and all.
($430 for Trans/Linkage/Clutch/etc, and $250 for the longblock + Extra crap)
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Re: (Dasfinc)
Yeah but i'm saying, i bought my D15B from Jdm Addiction in Ocala, FL 4 years ago for a tad over $500, now that same exact setup/swap is $800 that's what im sayin...
If i can get a JDM LS longblock for $700 i'm all for it... Just seems like the better bang for the buck considering it's cheaper... Before the D15B was the cheapest swap they sold...
If i can get a JDM LS longblock for $700 i'm all for it... Just seems like the better bang for the buck considering it's cheaper... Before the D15B was the cheapest swap they sold...
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Re: (JDM_SOHC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah but i'm saying, i bought my D15B from Jdm Addiction in Ocala, FL 4 years ago for a tad over $500, now that same exact setup/swap is $800 that's what im sayin...
If i can get a JDM LS longblock for $700 i'm all for it... Just seems like the better bang for the buck considering it's cheaper... Before the D15B was the cheapest swap they sold...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't need a JDM LS longblock either, Just go to your local salvage yard and offer them $400 for the front clip of a manual integra and you will have EVERYTHING you need as well as brake upgrades, prop valve upgrades, etc, etc, etc.
If i can get a JDM LS longblock for $700 i'm all for it... Just seems like the better bang for the buck considering it's cheaper... Before the D15B was the cheapest swap they sold...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't need a JDM LS longblock either, Just go to your local salvage yard and offer them $400 for the front clip of a manual integra and you will have EVERYTHING you need as well as brake upgrades, prop valve upgrades, etc, etc, etc.