Situation:

I just dropped a b-series into a 93 hatch; engine management is via Neptune RTP. My laptop sees the ECU and uploads the base map, no funky error codes, etc. To the computer, everything looks just as it should.

Problem:

The car won't turn over. With the key at the 'on' position, I get fuel pressure and all of the dash lights, etc. act normally, but it won't crank. This is my first try with Neptune - am I overlooking some basic thing that would prevent it from firing up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Top Ramen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Situation:

I just dropped a b-series into a 93 hatch; engine management is via Neptune RTP. My laptop sees the ECU and uploads the base map, no funky error codes, etc. To the computer, everything looks just as it should.

Problem:

The car won't turn over. With the key at the 'on' position, I get fuel pressure and all of the dash lights, etc. act normally, but it won't crank. This is my first try with Neptune - am I overlooking some basic thing that would prevent it from firing up?

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I don't think your problem is the ecu, sounds like a starter signal issue.

 

Hopefully it is something that simple.

Oddly enough when I had my hatch it occasionally would turn over at all. If I hit the started with a wrench a couple times it would work again. Swapped it out and never had a problem after that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't think your problem is the ecu, sounds like a starter signal issue.
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After working through pretty much every potential ECU issue, I came to the same conclusion. I am going to test the signal circuit tonight.

 

Even if the signal is good, the starter might not be. Bump starting will work in this case as a last resort test.

 

I had the same problem with the neptune, I could not hear my fuel pump turning on so I swapped ecu's with a hondata and car turned on immediatly. I asked jeff evans and he told me he has had some problems with some ecu's and I can try to run an external power supply for the fuel pump.

 

Just try manually starting it. Send 12 volts to that little spade connector on the side of the starter motor and see if she cranks. If not, replace the starter or wack it good a few times first.

 

Well I finally had a chance to take another look at the hatchie and tested the starter. I was a bit nervous about it, because it was a brand new high torque starter that I bought over a year ago (it sat on the shelf, waiting for this right project) and if it was junk, I was screwed. I jumped the starter signal wire with a big fat piece of left over grounding wire and it kicked right over.

So, the good news is the starter works. Now I guess I need to figure out where the problem really is. The fuses were the first thing I checked and they are all good. The car started fine before I did the swap, so it seems odd that the ignition switch would be the issue, but I need to test it. If its not that, the only other thing I can think of is the switch that senses if the clutch pedal is depressed.

Is there anything else I should test while I am crawling around under the dash?

 

Since you mentioned doing a swap, did you leave the plug at the drivers shocktower unconnected? The large Black/White wire is the starter signal, check that for power when turning the key to crank..

Also, please change the topic, this has nothing to do with the EMS.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by locash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, please change the topic, this has nothing to do with the EMS.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree.

And to the person who posted about the RTP not priming the pump. That is what is SUPPOSED to happen with the RTP. It is a security feature. If you were having problems with the car starting there is an option to turn the pump on all the time when the ign switch is in the on position.

Def sounds like a current or ignition signal problem though.

 

Finally had time to dig into it a find the problem. It was not a Neptune issue; the stupid little rubber bumper on the clutch pedal was cracked. It looked fine, but if you pushed on it, it bent over to the side instead of depressing the button on the switch. What a pain in the @ss, but glad to have sorted it out. Going to swing by the dealer tomorrow and get a new one.

 

Good to hear. Now get her up and running.