I had my car Dyno tuned 183whp/139tq, and compression is 270 across the board, the shop figures 12.1-12.5 CR.

I'm looking for 200whp, I plan on changing the intake to the Samco/VStack&KN, also I plan on changing the Throttle Body to a Skunk2 either 66 or 68mm (currently a B20 TB, not sure of mm size) (opinions?)

Now I was told that the Cams are holding me back, should I change the Cams? and what would be recommended? Also how much would it cost to have a shop install? Problems? etc.

94 Integra LS
LS engine block bored .25 over
Ported B16 cylinder head
CTR/PCT pistons
Peak Performance Pro Series Camshafts
AN-R Compact Header Jet Hot coated
RSR Exmag exhaust
test pipe
P28 tuned with Crome
RC 370 cc injectors
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Memory-Fab Carbon Fiber Intake

Thank you for your help.

 

Specs on the cams you have now?

 

Do you plan to do anything else to the motor or just stop at the cams? Anyway- I would go with Skunk2, Pro1 cams.

 

I'm surprised you didn't hit 200. Although I don't know anything about peak perfomance cams. What size is the RSR exhaust?

 

Unfortunately I don't know the specs of the cams, I don't know much about building an engine, and they were in it when I bought the car.

I was also surprised it didn't hit 200whp, so something must be holding it back...

I'm guessing the RSR is 2.5"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94WhtTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unfortunately I don't know the specs of the cams, I don't know much about building an engine, and they were in it when I bought the car.

I was also surprised it didn't hit 200whp, so something must be holding it back...

I'm guessing the RSR is 2.5"</TD></TR></TABLE>

No more guessing/excuses. 200whp out of a small displacement engine just doesnt happen by chance or guessing. Find out the cam specs of what you have in the engine, find out the specs of the exhaust your running and legitimize the health of the engine. Once you have this information handy, we can help you.

 

damn i made just as much with a stock b18c-R with just bolt on's thru a mugen twinloop, you have cam gears and are they set up?

 

Skunk 2 Cam gears

It was went over by a local tuner shop, they said everything was perfect, did the compression/leakdown etc. Then it was dyno tuned.

Does the RSR come in 3", I was under the impression it only came 2.5"

Peak Perfomance Camshafts (from their site);

Capable of producing 245 horsepower (Import Tuner) at the wheels from a 2.0 liter Honda VTEC engine
Much greater lift and duration than JDM Civic Type-R or Integra Type-R camshafts
Smoother transition from primary lobes to secondary lobes, making greater use of Honda's VTEC technology
Increased horsepower and torque across the whole RPM range
Increased power producing RPM range (higher redline) when used with adequate valve springs

Specifications (Honda B-Series Pro Camshaft):

Intake: Duration: 256° @ 0.05in (1.27mm) Lift: 12.8mm
Exhaust: Duration: 257° @ 0.05in (1.27mm) Lift: 12.6mm
For Comparison:

Compare to Honda CTR/ITR camshaft specifications:
Intake: Duration: 243° @ 1mm, Lift: 11.5mm
Exhaust: Duration: 235° @ 1mm, Lift: 10.5mm

 

Based on the specs, the cams are good enough.

What type of dyno did you tune the car on?
How much CFM does the head flow?
What are the specs of the header?

Two suggestions:
(1) 3" exhaust (kteller is what I run)
(2) 3" CAI the length should be determined on a dyno.

 

It was a Two wheel dyno, not sure if it's a mustang or w/e...

I'm not sure on the CFM or how to find out.

It's an ANR Header, the guy who owns the shop seem to believe that the header/exhaust combo was good. He didn't have a lot of advice, only really said the cams on it currently weren't "extreme", and that he wasn't sure if changing the MemFab SRI intake to a 3" SRI w/V-Stack would make any difference.

Do you think if I went to the skunk2 stg 2 or skunk2 pro 1's that id see any difference?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94WhtTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure on the CFM or how to find out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, so the guy who ported your head did not have any flow bench numbers before and after? I would suggest you go back to your porter and get a handle on what he did or didn't do.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94WhtTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's an ANR Header, the guy who owns the shop seem to believe that the header/exhaust combo was good. He didn't have a lot of advice, only really said the cams on it currently weren't "extreme", and that he wasn't sure if changing the MemFab SRI intake to a 3" SRI w/V-Stack would make any difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What does 'good' mean? does it mean he has seen this combination perform well?
I seen an ANR header once and it was so-so for the price. It was only a few whp better than JDM ITR 4-1.

Yes, a tuned intake is going to be better than the MemFab intake.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94WhtTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you think if I went to the skunk2 stg 2 or skunk2 pro 1's that id see any difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Slow down and look at what you have already.
What are the specs for a s2s2 and Pro1s?
The specs you quoted for your cam are at least stg3.

When you were getting it tuned, did the tuner move the cam centerlines around to see where you were making and loosing power?

Also, did your engine builder do a piston to valve and valve to valve check?

Before you spend another dime, go back and get more information about your set-up.

 

I don't know who did the headwork, I bought the car 2nd hand, and I can't say that guy knew a lot about it other than the aftermarket parts, as I have the build list.

Well he's been in the honda business since 97' I believe, building etc (but he owns the shop), I went there cause the "best" tuner in town works out of there. The owner of the shop owns the dyno, but he's not the tuner. He said my engine performed in the top tier of the LS/Vtecs that he sees in there. The guy who built my car, was a previous employee of his though, and he seemed to think highly of him. My friend who was a honda tech (now a bmw tech) had also worked for him.

Honestly I'm not entirely sure what all the tuner did, it was hella rich when I brought it to them and had a bad tune on it (I have the graph, it's definitely snappier) but I wasn't there when he tuned it, unfortunately their hours were my work time pretty much, and since I had dropped the car off to have it compression/leakdown tested, I just left it with them to tune when they had the free time that week.

 

If you trust him as a local Honda expert, why do you not trust him when he says this is among the top tier of the LS/V's he's see's there? My next step if I was you, would be to call the shop and ask what type of Dyno was used. If a Mustang dyno was used, youve already achieved your goal.

 

I can/did trust him.

But he said to get around and over 200whp, that I'd be better off selling my current LS/Vtec and going with a B20/Vtec.

But I have seen people on here make 200whp and over, so I know it's possible, I just don't know how to do it haha.

What if it was a Dynojet dyno?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94WhtTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What if it was a Dynojet dyno?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then go to a strip and see what it does there. Trap speed and wieght can be used to determine whp.



Modified by mar778c at 1:44 PM 7/21/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94WhtTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What if it was a Dynojet dyno?</TD></TR></TABLE>

What if it was just two drums of racing gas containers halfway in the ground? Find out what kind of dyno they use.

 

Well I emailed the Tuner, and he said;

dyno: Dynapack Evolution 3000

What needs to be done:
New bottom end (2L, 12-13:1 compression)
professionally ported head (Portflow, RLZ, headgames)
ARP rodbolts at a minimum, real rods better
Better cams (Rocket M22X, M24X, Skunk2 Pro1, Pro2, Toda C, etc.)

You might as well do a K motor, would probably be cheaper and have more potential.

-But I don't really want to spend that kind of money, I thought I could hit 200whp for around 2 grand...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94WhtTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I emailed the Tuner, and he said;

dyno: Dynapack Evolution 3000

What needs to be done:
1) New bottom end (2L, 12-13:1 compression)
professionally ported head (Portflow, RLZ, headgames)
2) ARP rodbolts at a minimum, real rods better
3) Better cams (Rocket M22X, M24X, Skunk2 Pro1, Pro2, Toda C, etc.)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

1) You don't need a 2L bottom end to get to 200 whp. You need a well thought out build. Search, the 1.8L all motor thread, there are plenty of builds.
2) How does the tuner know what rod bolts are in this motor did he build it? What does he mean by better rods, Carrillo As? Your rods don't have much do with production of power in this motor. Stock rods are fine.
3) Better cams, does he actually know anything about the cams you have?
According to you, those cams have 12.8 and 12.6 mms of lift on the intake and exhaust. That is as big as any of the cams he named.

I have one suggestion, go to the track and see what it will do. The correction factor on this dyno may make it read seemingly low.

 

I emailed him the build list, I think he might've been suggesting some things based on if I went 2L, but the rest I'd assume he was basing on what he's seen put up numbers.

He didn't build it, but he knows the guy who did.

Honestly other than their website, I couldn't find much on peak performance cams, and people tend to refer what they use or have seen been used, I get the feeling I'm the only person using them lol j/k...

They said when they were tuning it, that when they were pushing it, there was smoke or something, and they thought it was from the head. So it could be sound advice to have a better ported head, but I don't even know where to begin looking for what I need.

I realize I could copy someone else's build, but that wouldn't be very cost effective, which is why I was looking for advice for what I already have.

 

Talked to the tuner again, he says the peak perf cams have been known to be unreliable. He's personally seen it.