my friends gsr gets damn hot if we drive it around more than like 20-30 miles, especially during the day in the summer.

it has ac removed with a peakboost ver1 kit. the header is heatwrapped. car is using a fluidyne half core with a 10" slim fan. we just replaced the tstat as well with brand new oem.

normally the oil temp will be around 210 to 230, but if we drive it for a while or take it on the highway the oil will go up to 250 degrees and on occasion we have to turn the heat on to keep the coolant temps down. his engine bay is an oven, and we are looking for fixes and ideas why

 

what kind of driving are we talking about here. Normal cruising or beat-on-it-with-a-sledge-hammer ?

what size intercooler is he running?

Is the fan wired up properly to act as a pusher or puller as it's setup?

was the coolant system burped properly?

 

normal cruising. it will get hot without boosting it.

intercooler is the precision 350, the fan is a puller mounted behind the rad. i did bleed the coolant system. this has actually been going on for a while now, and ive flushed the coolant system since then too.

in the tune, timing is stock settings in vacuum and afr is perfect

 

If the coolant has been bled of air and the engine is running properly it doesn't seem like the car should be overheating; especially since the AC has been removed. I would double check and make sure the fan is truly wired to be a puller. Do you know how many CFM the fan is rated at?

 

no idea on the cfm for the fan, it might have come with the turbo kit. it is definately pulling i checked. the car and engine ran fine, made power on the dyno fine and ran a 13.0 @111 in a full weight teg with a bad 60ft on 8psi boost.


the oil temp actually concerns me more than the coolant. 99% of the time the coolant is fine, even when the oil is pushing 250


Modified by blackeg at 1:17 PM 7/16/2008

 

if absolutely nothing else is wrong iwth the car, and all other options have been covered, time for an oil cooler.

 

250 is cooking that oil, oil cooler isnt a bad investment, cheap insruance, plus you get a little extra oil capacity.

 

yeah im looking at oil coolers currently. one of the kits that takes from by the filter. any suggestions on brand or effective size?

 

i have the same EXACT problem, i might invest in a turbo blanket as well as an oil cooler...

 

I used an Earl's cooler off summit racing. I also used some high-quality lines (non stainless) from summit. I forget the brand. Aeroquip I think?

 

bad headgasket? warped head? a baby dragon blowing fire inside the engine bay? idk.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rickdrizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bad headgasket? warped head? a baby dragon blowing fire inside the engine bay? idk.</TD></TR></TABLE>

baby dragons or angry midgets that work in coal fired steam trains, its one of the two

 

Are you taking the oil temp in the pan?I wouldn't worry about 250* of oil temperature.If your taking oil temp at the pressure fitting in the back of the block it will read high.I like to see the oil temp running ten to twenty degrees higher then the water temp.It's only a problem when you run over 280* in the pan for long periods.You shouldn't need a oil cooler.You need to get the water temp under control and the oil temp should go down.This doesn't have a block guard I hope.

 

no block guard. motor is stock never taken apart. compression is 205-215. 137k miles.

im actually taking the oil temp in the front of the head right next to the vtec solenoid there is a 1/8 plug that i took out and put the sending unit in. this is where i have it on my car too, and i dont have any problems with it.

 

did anyone else look at this thread and think it said something about hot women driving turbo gsr's...lol i was like then i was like

 

Lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no block guard. motor is stock never taken apart. compression is 205-215. 137k miles.

im actually taking the oil temp in the front of the head right next to the vtec solenoid there is a 1/8 plug that i took out and put the sending unit in. this is where i have it on my car too, and i dont have any problems with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought that port only see's oil when vtec is engaged......you might be just getting the temprature of the head casting and not the true engine oil temp.

 

what about tunnnig, when you running lean averything gets hot!!!

 

One thing to remember is that pressurized liquids will have a higher boiling point. Thats the whole reason the coolant system is pressurized. If that port indeed only moves oil during vtec, it would definately read hot while cruising. The sensor casing may also add a bit of heat, but generally they do a good job isolating the case from the sensor.

If you're running the same timing as stock (which is 87 or 89 octane) and now run higher octane w/lower compression, you should add some timing in the cruising map. The fuel will allow it, and the compression means lower peak cyl pressures than stock, so both together mean you can do so. The lower compression/peak cyl pressure makes it burn a bit slower.

On the ectune forum, I recall someone really trying to dial their setup in - just 3* of timing made the difference between boost creeping and remaining solid!

 

switch to bigger fan.

 

try a 12" or 14" slim fan. (if you can fit a 14")

 

no one asked if the fan has a shroud. that makes a world of a difference. If it's one of those cheap fans, you kinda have to expect that.

I bought a regular 12" slim fan. I never over heat but i did watch my temps go to 200 during crusing, which is not right. come to find out it was cuase i had no shroud. try a better fan with good CFM

The fal fan doesn't push that many CFM's out but what makes it good is the Shroud.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try a 12" or 14" slim fan. (if you can fit a 14")

</TD></TR></TABLE>

half size radiator can fit 13in. that's the biggest.

check out summit racing "Be Cool" that's the fan Tony1 runs on his race car. he can idle it all day lon between 180-185. when he crosses the finish line his temps are only 195 usually. Great fan, but he made a shroud with his as well, so shrouds are improtant. It cools effectivly and efficiently

 

I'm running 14" on half size radiator. I would recommend 12" with high CFM.

Tony's car is not street car and most turbo cars run around 200. my frinends and mine run around 206 when its hot out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbocivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running 14" on half size radiator. I would recommend 12" with high CFM.

Tony's car is not street car and most turbo cars run around 200. my frinends and mine run around 206 when its hot out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i know it's not, but it's a really really good fan and it's not that expensive. My point was a shroud