suspensions
What is your budget? And what are you looking at doing with your car? DD or occasional tracking/autox?
For the price i think that progress makes a good coilover that can be revalve depending upon your needs. However, I am currently using the Buddy Club N+ coilovers and the only complaint I have is I wish I had the RSD's.
For the price i think that progress makes a good coilover that can be revalve depending upon your needs. However, I am currently using the Buddy Club N+ coilovers and the only complaint I have is I wish I had the RSD's.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by verizon210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay i narrow it down to HKS HIPERMAX RS or TEIN TYPE FLEX . PLEASE HELP</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why don't you look at the Buddy Racing spec damper's? I think the the spring rates on the Hipermaxes are pretty low, something like 6k F/ 9k R. I think the Tein's use ower rates as well. Your going to need to find a coilover with a stiff rear rate, like a good biut stiffer than the front.
Why don't you look at the Buddy Racing spec damper's? I think the the spring rates on the Hipermaxes are pretty low, something like 6k F/ 9k R. I think the Tein's use ower rates as well. Your going to need to find a coilover with a stiff rear rate, like a good biut stiffer than the front.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stokelessdc5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went with ksports. 760 bucks shipped to my doorstep. Haven't had a problem with them yet. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, and you get what you pay for, too.
Yep, and you get what you pay for, too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkankyEJ7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why don't you look at the Buddy Racing spec damper's? I think the the spring rates on the Hipermaxes are pretty low, something like 6k F/ 9k R. I think the Tein's use ower rates as well. Your going to need to find a coilover with a stiff rear rate, like a good biut stiffer than the front.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tein Flex - 12k[Front] / 14k [Rear]
Buddy Club Racing Spec Damper - 10k[Front] / 16k[Rear]
I wouldn't consider Tein's low ...
I've run the Tein Flex suspension for close to 3 yrs on my track car. You'll def. want to go stiffer in the rear than the front as mentioned. I'm considering bumping my front spring rate to 14k and moving the rear to 16k or more to help with rotation.
Why don't you look at the Buddy Racing spec damper's? I think the the spring rates on the Hipermaxes are pretty low, something like 6k F/ 9k R. I think the Tein's use ower rates as well. Your going to need to find a coilover with a stiff rear rate, like a good biut stiffer than the front.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tein Flex - 12k[Front] / 14k [Rear]
Buddy Club Racing Spec Damper - 10k[Front] / 16k[Rear]
I wouldn't consider Tein's low ...
I've run the Tein Flex suspension for close to 3 yrs on my track car. You'll def. want to go stiffer in the rear than the front as mentioned. I'm considering bumping my front spring rate to 14k and moving the rear to 16k or more to help with rotation.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FullEP3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm considering bumping my front spring rate to 14k and moving the rear to 16k or more to help with rotation.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That won't help the car rotate better--that setup will push more than you currently have.
Put the front at 10k and move the rear to 18k. However, Teins have a very small tolerance for more springrate, so chances are you'll need to get the rears revalved.
If you want a EP3/DC5 car that rotates well, you need a 1:2 ratio with front/rear--so the rear should be double the front.
I'm considering bumping my front spring rate to 14k and moving the rear to 16k or more to help with rotation.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That won't help the car rotate better--that setup will push more than you currently have.
Put the front at 10k and move the rear to 18k. However, Teins have a very small tolerance for more springrate, so chances are you'll need to get the rears revalved.
If you want a EP3/DC5 car that rotates well, you need a 1:2 ratio with front/rear--so the rear should be double the front.
I knew about the revalving issue ...
I wanted to up the front spring rate to rid more of the diving under heavy braking. Rotation would probably be better gained through alignment settings and a larger sway than my 22mm in the rear. I had the alignment adjusted a little over the weekend in preparation for VIR in 2 weeks ... guess we'll see what happens.
I wanted to up the front spring rate to rid more of the diving under heavy braking. Rotation would probably be better gained through alignment settings and a larger sway than my 22mm in the rear. I had the alignment adjusted a little over the weekend in preparation for VIR in 2 weeks ... guess we'll see what happens.
how about progress
...i have them and am in love with em. can go low as u want, can autoX them and they are very friendly @ progress also ready to help out w/ alot of knowledge. they revalved mine and gave me a better spring rate.
...i have them and am in love with em. can go low as u want, can autoX them and they are very friendly @ progress also ready to help out w/ alot of knowledge. they revalved mine and gave me a better spring rate.
Progress makes a good coilover for the RSX. Definitely better quality than the Megans, D2, lower model Teins, etc.
FullEP3--PM me if you want to know what I've played with to get good rotation out of this chassis. I've about tried it all. Check my FS link in my sig if you don't believe me, lol.
FullEP3--PM me if you want to know what I've played with to get good rotation out of this chassis. I've about tried it all. Check my FS link in my sig if you don't believe me, lol.
A set of full coilovers. Let's be real. How many on here will be tracking their cars on courses? Probably less than 25% maybe even lower. All I'm saying is, what kind of driving will you be doing? If you want to lower you car and have the abillity to adjust height and dampening you don't need anything too expensive. It's all in what you want. I do agree with you on you get what you paid for. That's not true with all products. Just my opinion.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stokelessdc5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A set of full coilovers. Let's be real. How many on here will be tracking their cars on courses? Probably less than 25% maybe even lower. All I'm saying is, what kind of driving will you be doing? If you want to lower you car and have the abillity to adjust height and dampening you don't need anything too expensive. It's all in what you want. I do agree with you on you get what you paid for. That's not true with all products. Just my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only problem is that every time you even touch the ride height on these cars, you're in the alignment shop. That's the pain of having the steering arm attached to the strut.
So, on a set of coilovers with this chassis...you pretty much have to set it initially and go with that.
Plus, the shock valving on those cheap coilovers are pretty poor--the shock **** is more of a suggestion and marketing gimmick than it is a tuning tool. And they are 'throw-away' coilovers as well because they can't be rebuilt.
The only problem is that every time you even touch the ride height on these cars, you're in the alignment shop. That's the pain of having the steering arm attached to the strut.
So, on a set of coilovers with this chassis...you pretty much have to set it initially and go with that.
Plus, the shock valving on those cheap coilovers are pretty poor--the shock **** is more of a suggestion and marketing gimmick than it is a tuning tool. And they are 'throw-away' coilovers as well because they can't be rebuilt.
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InfamousGizz5
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Oct 12, 2004 07:40 PM




