checked fuses, replaced shift lock solenoid and yes, pressing on the brakes at the same time. Can anybody give input

 

Brake pedal position switch. Do your brake lights work properly?

 

As said above...step on the brakes. If lights are on, bad switch/switch position, test and replace as needed. That'd be your first step. If not, see if you can manually shift it when using the little slot on the side. Then come back and let us know

 

how do I check the switch and where is it located. Yes, I can use the bypass to get into gear, but need to resolve the problem. Thanks

 

Our 96 had this problem only the brake lights didn't work either. We just didn't notice it until I read on here about it but sure enough when we checked the brake lights didn't work either. On the 96 it was just a switch on the brake pedal arm. Not sure if it was on the arm but I think the arm just hit it when pressed and pressed it on. I forgot exactly how it mounted. I think it was mounted to a bracket and the brake pedal arm pushed it in when you pushed on the brake pedal. It was fairly easy to change.

 

The location of the brake switch, should be easy to located, but here's a diagram.

What the brake switch actually looks like;

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLKFLSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake pedal position switch. Do your brake lights work properly?</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLKFLSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake pedal position switch. Do your brake lights work properly?</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLKFLSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake pedal position switch. Do your brake lights work properly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I am no mechanic, but I honestly think that this is your problem. I believe you can remove the collar and console from around the gearshift itself and physically see the lock engaging and disengaging. At this point you can unstick it by hand and add some sort of grease (if necessary) to ensure that it will release properly in the future.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by khooper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am no mechanic, but I honestly think that this is your problem. I believe you can remove the collar and console from around the gearshift itself and physically see the lock engaging and disengaging. At this point you can unstick it by hand and add some sort of grease (if necessary) to ensure that it will release properly in the future.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he can release it with the key in that hole which didn't he say he could I don't see it being a problem like that? That's exactly how it was when that brake light switch went bad. Now I may be wrong and it may be what you are saying but I had the exact same thing and it was the brake light switch. I'd check your break lights and if they work then maybe look into this. If they don't I'd change the switch.

 

Unless you have a rodent problem I'd just replace the brake switch. I do this for a living and prefer to diagnose a car before saying what labor operation to perform but I've seen so many of these it's rediculous. Just put a switch in it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by khooper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am no mechanic, but I honestly think that this is your problem. I believe you can remove the collar and console from around the gearshift itself and physically see the lock engaging and disengaging. At this point you can unstick it by hand and add some sort of grease (if necessary) to ensure that it will release properly in the future.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

But that's not the problem...Newer cars won't let you shift out of park without the brakes engaged. It doesn't know the brakes are being depressed if it has a faulty brake switch. Otherwise, you could also shave off the lockout mechanism, and never have a problem shifting out of gear, but it's just bypassing the problem, not fixing it. Plus the brake lights wont work, which is also illegal.

 

we did change out the brake switch, still not moving.

 

Do you hear a clicking sound, when you apply and release the brake pedal? Are your brake lights working properly? If your brake lights go bright and dim, with pedal movement, the brake pedal position switch is working. If the brake lights work, and the shift still doesn't move, you either have bad wiring, going to the console shift release solenoid, or a bad solenoid. You would have to take the console apart, and test to see if the solenoid is getting power to know for sure.

 

how do you shift it manually with the little slot on the side???

 

push in that little slot on the side of the gear handle and shift out of park

 

when u replaced the switch did u make sure it was adjusted properly?

 

how would I make sure it is adjusted properly.

 

Depress clutch activator to its fullest capabilities. Park reverse shift **** untill it clears pan floor. Hold for 3.5 seconds, then release clutch activator and tighten downbracket bolt. You should be good to go after that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moonglow 600-piece &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depress clutch activator to its fullest capabilities. Park reverse shift **** untill it clears pan floor. Hold for 3.5 seconds, then release clutch activator and tighten downbracket bolt. You should be good to go after that.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Is that a joke?

I know I laughed.

 

I have a 2003 Accord EX 4 cyl. I'm also having difficulty shifting out of park. I need to press the brake a few times before I am able to shift into R or D. When still in park, not pressing the brake, and I press the button on the shifter, I can hear something click near the steering wheel. Does this suggest some type of cable needs to be adjusted or replaced?

 

I agree with phoot just replace the switch. You could have other issues that cause the same problem, but they are way fewer and further in between.

 

The same symptom on my 1990 Honda Accord turned out to be that small black rectangular slide switch that is connected via a metal rod to the shift lever(visible on the passenger side with the shift mechanism's housing taken off).

Because of the worn switch, voltage doesn't reach the brass-colored solenoid plunger right away, especially in cold weather, so there's no "click", no red P light indicator, no shifting out of Park, and no getting the key out of the ignition until that P light eventually comes on.

I located a green and white striped wire that was the path for this voltage through the switch to the solenoid, and since neither electrical cleaner nor sandpapering the accessible parts of the switch helped, I ended up bypassing the switch with alligator clips to bring the P light back on and remove my key.

The bypass is temporary and must be disconnected before driving or it causes other gear indicator lights to go off and the xmission booster green light to flash until it is reset by turning off the engine.

To bypass, locate the green and white wire (driver's side of shifting mechanism). If you're not sure, test the wire by connecting one end of the alligator clip to the solder joint of the wire you think it is, and the other to the cigarette lighter socket or some other electrical ground.

You should hear that familiar click if you have the right wire (even without depressing the brake) and you will see the P light come on like it's supposed to.

You can then cut off one end of the alligator clip, strip off the insulation about 1/8 inch, and solder that end to the correct wire's solder joint.

Then screw the housing cover back on over the shift mechanism and clip the other end of the alligator to a plastic vent until needed.

After driving, if the P light doesn't come on after you shift into Park, clip the alligator onto the cigarette lighter or other ground and depress the brake. Make sure the steering wheel is not in a locked position.

The solenoid will click, the P light will come on, and your key will come out. The shifter will also shift normally.

Once again: do not drive with the clip connected to the lighter socket or ground. Put it back on the plastic vent.

Obviously, this is a temporary fix that will get us by until we decide what to do next.

Good luck!

 

if this is an 03 through 07 accord 4 cyl it could possibly be the throttle position sensor on the throttle body, especially if the check engine light is on. i know this sounds crazy but i have had two different ones do the same thing. the computer thinks you are stepping on the accelerator and wont let the solenoid in the side of the shifter engage.

 

I have the same problem on my 2003 Accord LX. I know it is not the brake light fuse because it is not blown. Brake lights do not come on, and to change from park to anything I have to manually override it. I plan on replacing the brake light switch as to save money from the mechanic fee. Can anyone go into detail on the adjusting the switch aspect or is it completely fixed once the new brake switch is installed?

 

Question, does this affect anything with the transmission while it is moving? The reason I ask, my wifes car started like that, could not get it out of gear, now D4 flashes on and off and the transmission sometimes acts crazy, down shifting all of a sudden and sometimes dont wanna move. Would the switch affect anything like that.? thanks