Shifting the Automatic (revisited i guess)
Yeah i know this topic has been discussed... and by me personally too (i started a thread a while back search for it). But i got to thinking and this way never mentioned. Does shifting the automatic manually burn automatic transmission fluid in excess amounts??? If someone has research on this they would like to share i would liek to here it. Shifting the auto manually really does help if/when you are racing, but if it is going to burn up transmission fluid which could potentially harm my car then i will just go about my ways in d4 and floor it haha.
shouldn't u be putting it in D3 and then flooring it? anyway don't manual shift your auto tranny.. I know more than a handful of people who killed their trannies that way... at first it started smelling like friction material (like brake or clutch lining) then the tranny just died...
unless you want to or have the money to do a swap right away (when it breaks) i'd stop doing that..
unless you want to or have the money to do a swap right away (when it breaks) i'd stop doing that..
Shifting through the gears does NOT help an automatic be faster, best you can do is put it in d3 and floor it, cause 3rd gear is good up to over 110mph before bouncing redline.
And also teken is right....
And also teken is right....
Shifting through the gears does NOT help an automatic be faster, best you can do is put it in d3 and floor it, cause 3rd gear is good up to over 110mph before bouncing redline.
And also teken is right....
And also teken is right....
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You know what, your actually right, I remember it hesitating in 3 or 4.... but when I did it a while ago in 1 it was instant go.... good point that I forgot about.
there is a difference between leaving it in d3 and shifting it from d1. I've actually tested this on my car at the track. If i leave it on d3, it shifts a little too early. When i manually shift it, i shift it right before redline. I shaved off around .2 off my 1/4.
should try driving a 02 accord v6
the toque is sick.....
the toque is sick.....
And anyways thanks for the replies i think i'm going to stop shifting because of that smell i used to smell it when i would do it and some times i don't, better safe then sorry. If i can't beat a guy just by flooring it then it aint worth the risk.
Andrew... you do nothing different/damaging to your transmission if you manually downshift the auto ... than if you floor it and let the ECU downshift for you .. it has the exact same fuel cutoff/shiftpoint.. the only thing your doing is saving an extra step for the ECU to downshift it for you..
now doing Neutral Drops is different ... but we are not talking about that ... that
has damage potential
and for all of you scared peeps saying it will damage your tranny (manually shifting the auto)
on you your friends have had either bumtrannyz ... did neutral drops ... or that lemon tranny that didnt like WOT period (: i drive my honda hard ...every day for the last 2.5 years +50k no change of tranny fluid/ filter change (130k auto tranny) ...going to do it soon though
so you are saying if i am at a dead stop... i can put it in 1st... floor it to red line shift to second floor it to red line shift to d3 ??? And this will in no way affect my transmission? Also is there anyway a dealer could tell taht i have been doing this (i'm still under warranty) if my tranny were to mess up?
I dont see how they could..but then again, whens the last time a tranny came in with excessive/abusive wear for the clicks and possibly some bad tranny fluid.
Then again, its not *if* they can tell its *if* they get the idea. Most of the time they want to refuse warranty like the plauge so they will come up with any reason. So impression is I think more a critical factor then the dealer taking apart the tranny and checking for abuse.
-Rage
Then again, its not *if* they can tell its *if* they get the idea. Most of the time they want to refuse warranty like the plauge so they will come up with any reason. So impression is I think more a critical factor then the dealer taking apart the tranny and checking for abuse.
-Rage
Okay ... posts about "this will blow up your tranny" does not make sense to me, perhaps someone can explain the mechanical reason for why they think this?
As far as I see it, the tranny will do what it is told, either via the computer, or by the selector. The tranny only knows that "hey, I need to shift up/down." Why would manual input interfere with the normal workings of the valve body/torque converter/friction discs?
Neutral drops... makes sense that would damage tranny and possibly other parts.
Over heating your tranny fluid would make sense (and could possibly be done by power braking in 1st for long periods). However if the fluid is indeed getting too hot, then fine, put a fluid cooler up front. They are not that hard to do for the average tuner.
However, just by manually shifting it and causing tranny damage does not make sense to me. Unless the computer never shifted as late in the power curve as you do when you manually control it. But even this would appear to be a heat issue that could be solved.
As far as I see it, the tranny will do what it is told, either via the computer, or by the selector. The tranny only knows that "hey, I need to shift up/down." Why would manual input interfere with the normal workings of the valve body/torque converter/friction discs?
Neutral drops... makes sense that would damage tranny and possibly other parts.
Over heating your tranny fluid would make sense (and could possibly be done by power braking in 1st for long periods). However if the fluid is indeed getting too hot, then fine, put a fluid cooler up front. They are not that hard to do for the average tuner.
However, just by manually shifting it and causing tranny damage does not make sense to me. Unless the computer never shifted as late in the power curve as you do when you manually control it. But even this would appear to be a heat issue that could be solved.
Ok lemme get to the grits of this....
My car when floored while in d3 will shift at 6800 (actually 68??) in first gear AND second gear... why the HELL would you need to manually shift it unless its for the fact power braking works better in d1 then d3-d4... if this is the case you ONLY need to manually shift from d1 to d3 anyways... cause my car shifts at EXACTLY redline on a ls engine which is about 68 and change thousand rpms anyway... I know this because I've watched my AFC which has peak hold and realtime reading of the revs (unlike the inaccurate stock tach).
My car when floored while in d3 will shift at 6800 (actually 68??) in first gear AND second gear... why the HELL would you need to manually shift it unless its for the fact power braking works better in d1 then d3-d4... if this is the case you ONLY need to manually shift from d1 to d3 anyways... cause my car shifts at EXACTLY redline on a ls engine which is about 68 and change thousand rpms anyway... I know this because I've watched my AFC which has peak hold and realtime reading of the revs (unlike the inaccurate stock tach).
so you are saying if i am at a dead stop... i can put it in 1st... floor it to red line shift to second floor it to red line shift to d3 ??? And this will in no way affect my transmission? Also is there anyway a dealer could tell taht i have been doing this (i'm still under warranty) if my tranny were to mess up?
yuppppppppppppp they wont be able to tell .,. your not doing really anything abusive to the tranny not anything other than flooring it ... honestly .. they prob
wouldnt be able to prove you did neutral drops.... just deny it if they ever asked ... but i wouldnt recommend doing those (:
Honda WILL possibly deny warrenty on transmission failures if you have dropped your car and have different size/weight rims ... they denied a chica friend of mines Prelude that way .. so she bought a Level 10 insted of paying 4k for oem
why does putting in D3 make acc fater? because it shifts later?
kinda of this topic, redlining the car doesn't mean you are going the fastest right? since the hp peek and torq peek is not in that rang for some cars.
kinda of this topic, redlining the car doesn't mean you are going the fastest right? since the hp peek and torq peek is not in that rang for some cars.
It makes it faster because when your in d4 and you floor it, no matter what it will NOT pull redline in 3rd gear... it will for 1 and 2, but NOT 3rd, it will shift to fourth way before you would ever want it to... I know this because the only 2 runs I did at the track were in d4 and I was in 4th gear a good while before I even hit the finish line, traps where 90mph each and 3rd gear goes up to over 110mph before hitting redline.... my times which I'm not posting are totally irrelivante because of that now and understand I have to pull in d3 never ever d4.... strip isen't long enough and I'm not going fast enough to need 4th gear.
how would different size tires/wheels affect the tranny in any way? My warranty reads any damage caused by NON-HONDA/ACURA parts is not covered by the warranty... and to affect the transmission i would need like a different shifter or reconfiguration of the computer or going in and messing w/ the inner complicated workings of the automatic transmission.
If you want to shift, why didn't you just buy a manual?
very good question
-Scary
very good question
-Scary
what about going from d4 into neutral before a stop light, then when it turns green, going back to d4. or going from d4 to neutral on the highway, when it's going down hill for a long time, and then going back to neutral while cars cruising at 60mph.
does this harm automatic transmissions?
does this harm automatic transmissions?
what about going from d4 into neutral before a stop light, then when it turns green, going back to d4. or going from d4 to neutral on the highway, when it's going down hill for a long time, and then going back to neutral while cars cruising at 60mph.
does this harm automatic transmissions?
does this harm automatic transmissions?
Going into neutral and back into drive... while NOT accelerating .. causes no harm..
but if your talking about puting it in neutral.... bringing the RPMz up .. then dropping back into D4 (which is termed as Neutral Drops) it does put more strain on the transmission internals... than just flooring it or manually shifting the gears does..
Not really something you want to do if you value the longevity of the tranny...
from a stop light youd be better off holding down the brake and bringing up the RPMz slightly and when you get the green let off the brake and push the throttle the rest of the way to the floor
whiling going around 60mph or so .. .your best bet is in (D4) 2500rpms or less downshift to 3rd and floor it at the same time ... and the Auto tranny actually drops to 2nd (You can pull it all the way down to 2nd yourself but dont forget to almost immediately shift back to 3rd or youll hit the fuel cutoff)





