Rotor won't come off... Damn screws...
Alright so I got the Tire off, brake pads out, caliper off, and now I have to take out these little philips head screws (which I was dreading). They just won't turn, and they are starting to strip, any tips to get those bastards out without striping them?
Also does anyone know the size of the screws? Thread type? (Coarse or Fine)
Thanks again
Also does anyone know the size of the screws? Thread type? (Coarse or Fine)
Thanks again
your best bet is a good phillips bit in a 1/4" socket. use a hammer to seat the bit on the screw, then attach the ratchet. push on it as you turn, hammer some more if necessary. it should pop right out. use a small torch to heat it first if you have one
the set screws are a bitch(btw u cont have to put them in when u replace the rotor)
best bet is to use an impact screwdriver and PB buster
poor the buster on the screws, let it sit for a bit
then use the impact screw(not sure what size) and hit it with a hammer and it will loosen the set screw
best bet is to use an impact screwdriver and PB buster
poor the buster on the screws, let it sit for a bit
then use the impact screw(not sure what size) and hit it with a hammer and it will loosen the set screw
I tried everything I knew to get them out when I replaced my rotors. You'll probably end up just drilling the heads off the screws and grinding down the rest of it.
You don't need to replace them Honda put them there to hold the rotor on on the assembly line.
Good luck
You don't need to replace them Honda put them there to hold the rotor on on the assembly line.
Good luck
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The phillips and hammer screw works, while you twist to loosen you tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer (16oz).
If that doesn't work, try getting 2 hammers both atleast 16oz's. One has to be a ballpoint hammer. Place the ball part of the hammer on the screw where you would put the phillips screwdriver basically, right in the middle of the screw, then use the other hammer to smack it into the hammer as the ballpoint basically breaks the rust off the screw. Gotta hit a good 2 times.
By this time the screw will look dented in as if you can't put the screw driver in it. Grab the screwdriver and hammer, and line up the screw driver into the screw, unless it still goes in normally, then use the hammer to pound in the screwdriver into the screw and once the screwdriver goes back in, try twisting while hitting it with hammer.
Its alot easier done than said. My first time I screwed up the screw and it was hardly useable but if you get good at it, you can reuse the screw without much damage to it and won't have the problem again unless you don't spray wd-40 in there and let it rust again.
If that doesn't work, try getting 2 hammers both atleast 16oz's. One has to be a ballpoint hammer. Place the ball part of the hammer on the screw where you would put the phillips screwdriver basically, right in the middle of the screw, then use the other hammer to smack it into the hammer as the ballpoint basically breaks the rust off the screw. Gotta hit a good 2 times.
By this time the screw will look dented in as if you can't put the screw driver in it. Grab the screwdriver and hammer, and line up the screw driver into the screw, unless it still goes in normally, then use the hammer to pound in the screwdriver into the screw and once the screwdriver goes back in, try twisting while hitting it with hammer.
Its alot easier done than said. My first time I screwed up the screw and it was hardly useable but if you get good at it, you can reuse the screw without much damage to it and won't have the problem again unless you don't spray wd-40 in there and let it rust again.
what I have always done was put the phillips in like was going to screw it out then hit the phillips on the handle with a hammer and boom always comes loose for me
gl
gl
Use an impact screwdriver with a hammer to remove the rotor screws.

If you've already stripped them, just drill them out and forget they ever existed. They serve no useful purpose once the wheels are on the car with the lug nuts torqued; as someone mentioned above, they were only put there to hold the rotor onto the hub while the car was on the assembly line.

If you've already stripped them, just drill them out and forget they ever existed. They serve no useful purpose once the wheels are on the car with the lug nuts torqued; as someone mentioned above, they were only put there to hold the rotor onto the hub while the car was on the assembly line.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by harmonator84 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am getting ready to change my brakes over and this is something I am dreading big time!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Working on cars is nothing to dread when you have the correct tools.
Working on cars is nothing to dread when you have the correct tools.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sgallagher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The screw is originally a P2 phillips head.
If you have a impact screwdriver your life would be much easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is actually a p3 phillps, p2's are a tid bit too small. go to your local piece of crap hardware store with really cheap one time use tools and pick your self up an impact screwdriver for like 10 bucks. and go to a nice hardware store and pick up your p3 bit for the driver. or hammer and chisel wore well too.
If you have a impact screwdriver your life would be much easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is actually a p3 phillps, p2's are a tid bit too small. go to your local piece of crap hardware store with really cheap one time use tools and pick your self up an impact screwdriver for like 10 bucks. and go to a nice hardware store and pick up your p3 bit for the driver. or hammer and chisel wore well too.
get a #3 philips head screwdriver and a 16-24oz hammer
put the screwdriver in the slots and hit the backend of the screwdriver hit helps even more if someone was in the car holding the brake
put the screwdriver in the slots and hit the backend of the screwdriver hit helps even more if someone was in the car holding the brake
LOL...
here is the trick to getting them off.
you parts list
1 ballpeen hammer
1 regular hammer
1 impact screw driver
take the ballpeen hammer and place the smallest ballpeen on top of the screw. shack that hammer with the other hammer. this will shock the screw, smack the **** out of it a few times. Then take the largest + phillips bit you have, hammer it into the screw, then place the impact drive onto the bit, and give it a good smack. this will back out the screw.
works 100% of the time.
unless you've already stripped the head out.
then you need to drill out the screw head. the screws are really not need because the lugs hold the rotor on.
here is the trick to getting them off.
you parts list
1 ballpeen hammer
1 regular hammer
1 impact screw driver
take the ballpeen hammer and place the smallest ballpeen on top of the screw. shack that hammer with the other hammer. this will shock the screw, smack the **** out of it a few times. Then take the largest + phillips bit you have, hammer it into the screw, then place the impact drive onto the bit, and give it a good smack. this will back out the screw.
works 100% of the time.
unless you've already stripped the head out.
then you need to drill out the screw head. the screws are really not need because the lugs hold the rotor on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sgallagher »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The screw is originally a P2 phillips head.
If you have a impact screwdriver your life would be much easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is what I use all the time, works wonders.
If you have a impact screwdriver your life would be much easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is what I use all the time, works wonders.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use an impact screwdriver with a hammer to remove the rotor screws.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Working on cars is nothing to dread when you have the correct tools.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agree 100%

</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Working on cars is nothing to dread when you have the correct tools.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agree 100%
I've got one of the impact drivers, but it didn't work, ended up stripping the screw head. Drilling the screw head takes only a few minutes per rotor.
I didnt want to buy the tool so I drilled them out and never looked back. Never put them on after I took them off either. They really are not a big deal as everyone says they are.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ian1006 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didnt want to buy the tool so I drilled them out and never looked back. Never put them on after I took them off either. They really are not a big deal as everyone says they are.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Unless you live in the north states where rust loves cars.
Unless you live in the north states where rust loves cars.



