Is it possible...
sort of. you have to at least unbolt the lower control arm...the lower ball joint nut, and maybe the damper fork bolt on the strut. you have to be able to move the knuckle away from the car
can i ask why? If it is the fact that you cant, or are unsure if you can bust the ball joint loose, it is easy. I am sure someone can link to the "use a wrench" method that looks like it works very well. Myself, I have a pickle fork AKA ball joint splitter, a fork that is a ramp, and two good wacks from my biggest hammer (about 3lbs) and they bust loose, without damage.
If this wasn't the case for your question, disregard my blathering above
for the pickle fork method, check this out, you will see it in use and get a glimpse of what you would want to buy if you dont have one... http://www.expertvillage.com/v...k.htm
If this wasn't the case for your question, disregard my blathering above
for the pickle fork method, check this out, you will see it in use and get a glimpse of what you would want to buy if you dont have one... http://www.expertvillage.com/v...k.htm
pop lower ball joint by jacking up the whole suspension and placing a square rachet inbetween the lca and the arm let jack down and push down on suspension, it will pop off and not ruin your bushings.
Then remove tie rod and strut fork swing whole suspension over.
easy as that.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=RZ-M--2uGE4
Then remove tie rod and strut fork swing whole suspension over.
easy as that.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=RZ-M--2uGE4
Popping the lower ball joint is not the problem; I have already replaced my passenger's side axle. I am going to do the driver's side this week, but I would rather not remove the knuckle for fear of my alignment going bad. Removing the knuckle requires disconnecting the tie rod end. I just spent $60 on an alignment and the car still pulls to the right.
pickle forks can still bust the rubber or at least on my other vehicles. i always take out the upper wishbone suspension bolts and the top shock bolts which are right next to eachother(4 bolts ) then take out the two lower shock mount bolts and ditch the shock and shock mount then lower the whole suspension down and your good to go.. u only have to take off like 4 extra bolts to do it this way , but its so easy and you will never have to hemp up your tie rod..o ya and if you use a jack to raise the suspension back up its easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by playaP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i always take out the upper wishbone suspension bolts and the top shock bolts which are right next to eachother(4 bolts ) then take out the two lower shock mount bolts and ditch the shock and shock mount then lower the whole suspension down and your good to go.. u only have to take off like 4 extra bolts to do it this way , but its so easy and you will never have to hemp up your tie rod..o ya and if you use a jack to raise the suspension back up its easier. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks, I believe i'll try this method.
thanks, I believe i'll try this method.
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as long as you don't adjust the tie rod, you can remove and reinstall without any need for alignment. the joints are machined within thousandths of an inch, everything bolts up the same
I swaped my axles last week. I removed the caliper and bracket, shock fork and separated the upper ball joint. Thats it. It allows enough swing to get the axles out. I know for a fact they'll come out.
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