4 to 5 Lug Brake Swap. Thead with pictures.
Thanks to all the amazing dudes on this forum. I'm starting my project on the brake swap.
I read the thread previously opened and decided to make a new one with pictures of the whole process from beginning to end.
As previously stated in prior threads here are the ingredients for the swap.
1. 94-95 Acura Legend GS Sedan Dual Piston Front Calipers or 92+ Honda Prelude VTEC Front Calipers
2. 23T Caliper Brackets
3. 95-98 Honda Odyssey or 95-97 Accord V6 Front Knuckles (1L, 1R) aka left/right
4. 98+ Acura ITR (Integra Type R) or 98+ Accord V6 Rear Rotors
5. 95-98 Honda Odyssey Front Wheel Bearings/Hubs (2)
6. 98+ Acura ITR/ 97+ Honda Prelude Front Rotors (2)
7. 97+ Prelude Rear Hub/Bearing Assembly (2)
8. Rotor Screws (8)
9. 20 Lugnuts.
I chose Prelude Calipers ($60 set)

I chose 95-98 Honda Odyssey Knuckles ($130) Junkyard

I chose 98+ Accord V6 Rear Rotors (I want to say $50) Subject to change unless I can't find Integra Type R rear rotors.

Modified by gqstatus05 at 3:04 PM 7/8/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 4:39 PM 7/9/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 4:43 PM 7/9/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 9:00 AM 7/10/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 9:13 AM 7/10/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 12:26 PM 7/10/2008
I read the thread previously opened and decided to make a new one with pictures of the whole process from beginning to end.
As previously stated in prior threads here are the ingredients for the swap.
1. 94-95 Acura Legend GS Sedan Dual Piston Front Calipers or 92+ Honda Prelude VTEC Front Calipers
2. 23T Caliper Brackets
3. 95-98 Honda Odyssey or 95-97 Accord V6 Front Knuckles (1L, 1R) aka left/right
4. 98+ Acura ITR (Integra Type R) or 98+ Accord V6 Rear Rotors
5. 95-98 Honda Odyssey Front Wheel Bearings/Hubs (2)
6. 98+ Acura ITR/ 97+ Honda Prelude Front Rotors (2)
7. 97+ Prelude Rear Hub/Bearing Assembly (2)
8. Rotor Screws (8)
9. 20 Lugnuts.
I chose Prelude Calipers ($60 set)

I chose 95-98 Honda Odyssey Knuckles ($130) Junkyard

I chose 98+ Accord V6 Rear Rotors (I want to say $50) Subject to change unless I can't find Integra Type R rear rotors.

Modified by gqstatus05 at 3:04 PM 7/8/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 4:39 PM 7/9/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 4:43 PM 7/9/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 9:00 AM 7/10/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 9:13 AM 7/10/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 12:26 PM 7/10/2008
Ok. I bought the Honda Odyssey Front Knuckles from a junkyard for $130 for the pair.
One slight problem. One of the knuckles the boot is torn.

Have to get that replaced. I will replace both just in case. Start Fresh.
Should I hose them down the knuckles to rinse them out or just wipe them with a rag before I paint them?

Modified by gqstatus05 at 4:45 PM 7/9/2008
One slight problem. One of the knuckles the boot is torn.

Have to get that replaced. I will replace both just in case. Start Fresh.
Should I hose them down the knuckles to rinse them out or just wipe them with a rag before I paint them?

Modified by gqstatus05 at 4:45 PM 7/9/2008
Yes you can replace the ball joints. Beat them out with a deep socket (sorry I can't remember what size socket I used). You probably will have to remove the wheel bearing from the knuckle before you can hammer out the ball joint. Use a rubber hammer on the rotor to get the rust to break loose. When you finally install the axles, you may notice that the ABS grooves around the axle (assuming you have ABS) don't line up well, you may want to try to elongate the mounting holes on the ABS sensors to be able to screw them into the knuckle a little closer to the ABS grooves. The reason for this is you may have a nerve-racking 'clunk' from the ABS brakes because the sensor doesn't line up well. I haven't tried this solution yet but that's what I intend to do. If you happen to get ITR rear rotors, could you measure the thickness of them? I got Accord V6 rear rotors and I had to adjust my parking brake to max to get my parking brake to set because the Accord V6 rotors were thinner than my original rotors. I am considering changing to ITR rear rotors if I can verify that they are thicker than the Accord V6's. Good luck
Modified by Bird333 at 1:38 AM 7/9/2008
Modified by Bird333 at 1:38 AM 7/9/2008
Yeah my car does not have ABS so I removed the cable off of the front knuckle. The front knuckle came from the a VTEC Honda Odyssey. I'm thinking of swapping out the LUDE calipers with NSX but they are hard as **** to find.
Going to PEP BOYS tomorrow to see if I can order the Acura ITR rear rotors, if not I'll just get them at Honda.
As far as everything else I'm going to order all the other stuff. I'll post pics of my car currently.
After the brake setup is done i'm going to get a set of these:

Hey bird. So you said I could replace the boot that is ripped. I'm going to get it fixed tomorrow.
Going to PEP BOYS tomorrow to see if I can order the Acura ITR rear rotors, if not I'll just get them at Honda.
As far as everything else I'm going to order all the other stuff. I'll post pics of my car currently.
After the brake setup is done i'm going to get a set of these:

Hey bird. So you said I could replace the boot that is ripped. I'm going to get it fixed tomorrow.
Here is a thread on replacing your lower ball joints. http://www.nb-performance.com/....html It's for a Prelude but it is similar.
yes, you can replace just the boot but since you don't know how long it's been like that or the condition of the ball joint it would be best to just replace the ball joint.
for the WD-40 and degreaser on the concrete... I always have on hand some Oil Dry that can be bought at most parts stores. This usually dries everything up very well and leaves the concrete like normal, no stains. You usually just leave it sit but if it's bad you can rub it in with your foot and that helps. If this is going to be a concern of yours, get a small heavy duty tarp to lay down while you are working on your car. I do this and it works great but soon I hope/plan to epoxy my garage floor so fluid spills and that will wipe up easily. Also, if the oil dry does not work all the way, they sell concrete cleaner at most parts stores.
I wouldn't hose the knuckles off. Besides, hosing them off would just flush that nasty stuff onto the concrete some more. I would wipe them down really good and maybe use some brake cleaner to help get some stuff off if need be.
for the WD-40 and degreaser on the concrete... I always have on hand some Oil Dry that can be bought at most parts stores. This usually dries everything up very well and leaves the concrete like normal, no stains. You usually just leave it sit but if it's bad you can rub it in with your foot and that helps. If this is going to be a concern of yours, get a small heavy duty tarp to lay down while you are working on your car. I do this and it works great but soon I hope/plan to epoxy my garage floor so fluid spills and that will wipe up easily. Also, if the oil dry does not work all the way, they sell concrete cleaner at most parts stores.
I wouldn't hose the knuckles off. Besides, hosing them off would just flush that nasty stuff onto the concrete some more. I would wipe them down really good and maybe use some brake cleaner to help get some stuff off if need be.
^^x2 Do not use water. Wipe the knuckles down with a rag and a paint thiner or varsol type mineral cleaner that is used to prep for painting. That will make sure that all of the WD-40 and degreaser is removed from your surface prior to painting.
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Uncertain about the caliper brackets. What do you guys recommend? I have the ABS sensor cables that I removed off the knuckles. I'll send it to you guys for free if one of you guys need it. You just pay for shipping. I live in New Jersey so you should be able to get a shipping quote if you want them.
They are from a Honda Odyssey VTEC

I cleaned up the knuckles with a moist rag and some mineral liquid. I painted the knuckles flat black. I was thinkin about murdering out my accord and murdering out the RIMs unless they sell Honda RIMS that come in black. Heres a pic of the knuckle in flat black. (Looks grey but it's actually flat black. My camera was a Blackberry Pearl so forgive the shots. I plan to retouch the paint some more. get it perfect. I'm going to get the calipers powdercoated as well.)


So far everything is looking good. I plan to have all the parts by next week.
Modified by gqstatus05 at 4:49 PM 7/9/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 12:58 PM 7/10/2008
They are from a Honda Odyssey VTEC

I cleaned up the knuckles with a moist rag and some mineral liquid. I painted the knuckles flat black. I was thinkin about murdering out my accord and murdering out the RIMs unless they sell Honda RIMS that come in black. Heres a pic of the knuckle in flat black. (Looks grey but it's actually flat black. My camera was a Blackberry Pearl so forgive the shots. I plan to retouch the paint some more. get it perfect. I'm going to get the calipers powdercoated as well.)


So far everything is looking good. I plan to have all the parts by next week.
Modified by gqstatus05 at 4:49 PM 7/9/2008
Modified by gqstatus05 at 12:58 PM 7/10/2008
I didn't get them yet. That's last. Right now I'm trying to get the Acura ITR rotors. I've been talking to a couple of people in Paterson "All they mess with are Integras" Seeing if I could get my hands on a new pair for a good price. I just wanted to know any other available options. I want a nice clean setup.
you can probably get some Brembo blanks for the 98+ ITR from TireRack for about $40 each. Not sure what type of rotor or price range you are trying to stay in. TireRack has great service though.
I'm going to return the Rotors I picked up and get me a set of Brembo Slotted Rotors. Front and Rear. Still looking for NSX calipers. I was going to get the Legend ones but I heard they had to be installed upside down.
how much more are you spending on slotted over blanks?
yes, typically people mount the Legend dual piston calipers up-side-down (meaning left on right and right on left) to have the bleed screw on top.
Personally, if it was me doing the swap I would mount the calipers right on right and left on left. This would put the pistons in the correct orientation (not sure if it makes a difference but I'm assuming it was designed that way for a reason) but the bleed screws would be on the bottom making bleeding more difficult. But I would just remove the caliper from the bracket and clamp it onto a wood stand or something with the bleed screw up and then reinstall it after bleeding.
I do recall someone doing this but I don't recall the results or if anything was noticeably different either way.
yes, typically people mount the Legend dual piston calipers up-side-down (meaning left on right and right on left) to have the bleed screw on top.
Personally, if it was me doing the swap I would mount the calipers right on right and left on left. This would put the pistons in the correct orientation (not sure if it makes a difference but I'm assuming it was designed that way for a reason) but the bleed screws would be on the bottom making bleeding more difficult. But I would just remove the caliper from the bracket and clamp it onto a wood stand or something with the bleed screw up and then reinstall it after bleeding.
I do recall someone doing this but I don't recall the results or if anything was noticeably different either way.
I went to autozone and brought the rotors for 63 dollars for the set of 2.
I will get these. Front and Rear far more expensive. I'm going to shop for a lower price if not I'll just go to tirerack.com and buy from here.
These are for the 98 ITR .. Almost 300 for them.
I will get these. Front and Rear far more expensive. I'm going to shop for a lower price if not I'll just go to tirerack.com and buy from here.
These are for the 98 ITR .. Almost 300 for them.
Did you get the ITR rear rotors? If so, could you please measure the thickness of them and what is the autozone part number you got?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gqstatus05 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went to autozone and brought the rotors for 63 dollars for the set of 2.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gqstatus05 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went to autozone and brought the rotors for 63 dollars for the set of 2.
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Should look something like mine once it's done.
Easiest brake conversion ever IMO.
$130 for Odyssey knuckles..**** guy you got ripped hardcore. And the NSX calipers? I scored those for $170 no core charge.
Easiest brake conversion ever IMO.
$130 for Odyssey knuckles..**** guy you got ripped hardcore. And the NSX calipers? I scored those for $170 no core charge.
Bro I got them at a junkyard for $130 for the fronts. I went to a honda dealership and the price for them new was double. Where the **** did you get NSX calipers. I'm still looking for them. I bought the LUDE ones but want to change to the dual piston. Where!!? Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gqstatus05 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't get them yet. That's last. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're saying you didn't get the 23t bracket yet, you'd better start looking. Honda doesn't sell the bracket separate from the caliper. they are very hard to find without the caliper.
If you're saying you didn't get the 23t bracket yet, you'd better start looking. Honda doesn't sell the bracket separate from the caliper. they are very hard to find without the caliper.
Yeah i got the brackets from the odyssey, i got the brackets from a prelude, and an nsx. Got them from CT. I bought all just in case one of them was wrong.


