Hello, I am having a major problem with my setup.

JDM B18C
Skunk2 Pro ValveSprings
Skunk2 TI Retainers
Skunk2 Pro CamGears
Skunk2 Pro 1+ Cams
Oem Honda Valves
Oem Bottom End
Greddy Timing Belt

Ok so after installing everthing. I started the motor and I noticed that there was alot of belt flop, After rechecking the belt tension and making it a little tighter I started the motor again. It idle'd for about 5 minutes than the exhaust cam jumped 1 tooth and the motor turned off. I was like WTF. So I reset all the timing marks and had a honda master tech look at it he re tensioned the belt and the same thing happned again. I don't get it. I tried a brand new greddy belt and a brand new OEM honda belt, also a new tensioner. Thankfully after doing a compression test all is still ok in the motor, I got around 240 to 245 for all the cylinders. My question is what am I doing wrong. I have since put my stock valve springs, retainers, cams, and cam gears and all runs ok.

 

has the block been decked and/or has the head been resurfaced.

 

The block and head are stock height. Stock headgasket and no resurfacing or decking.


Are the springs maby to stiff? I can't seen to find the problem. Its not binding up cause I can spin the cams and crank over allthough the cams are a bit tough cause of the highlift and spring pressure.


Do I need to be using Skunk2 Pro valves for this setup?

 

valves should not make the difference.

have you adjusted the valve lash?

 

There are within skunk2 spec

 

Perhaps compare the S2 cam gears v. oem to verify the overall diameter has been manufactured accurately?

 

take a clothes hanger and make it long and fold the tip and put it where the tensioner spring goes on the belt tensioner and have someone pull on it real hard while you tighten the tensioner bolt..thats how I did it on mine and it worked good..belt is on real tight.

 

I am going to get a new tensioner and oem belt and make sure that the cam journals are not out of round. I am going to reinstall the factory cams and check everything.

 

did you degree the cams in? or is it set to 0,0? is it even tuned? because it will not even want to idle and cut out if not tuned

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00b18b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you degree the cams in? or is it set to 0,0? is it even tuned? because it will not even want to idle and cut out if not tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dropped my pro1s in went back 2* on my exh cam and it idles fine @ 780-820.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FOC-US2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am going to get a new tensioner and oem belt and make sure that the cam journals are not out of round. I am going to reinstall the factory cams and check everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont use a tensioner spring. i use the coathanger method

 

I couldn't degree the cam cause the motor was still in the car. I called skunk2 and talked to one of there techs and they said to do the quick settings +3,+4. I tried that and 0,0 dosent matter it still jumps.

It idled fine for me, just a bit high like 900-1100. but then it would jump and turnoff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Chick Magnet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take a clothes hanger and make it long and fold the tip and put it where the tensioner spring goes on the belt tensioner and have someone pull on it real hard while you tighten the tensioner bolt..thats how I did it on mine and it worked good..belt is on real tight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldnt pull hard at all just pull the slack and add a few lbs to it or else your belt will turn from navy to baby blue and have an anoying whine, almost like a supercharger!

GL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JakeSpec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i wouldnt pull hard at all just pull the slack and add a few lbs to it or else your belt will turn from navy to baby blue and have an anoying whine, almost like a supercharger!

GL </TD></TR></TABLE>

no wonder my car sounds like it has a supercharger lately.

 

It takes 2 people to properly put on a timing belt with stiffer springs and cams with bigger primaries - ask me how I know. The intake cam is going to "want" to advance and you need an extra hand with a wrench to turn it back. This keeps the belt tight on da backside.

 

thats what i did the first time, I had some body hold the intake cam with a wrench and the crank I held with the crank tool. It was the exhaust cam that keeps jumping, I am not sure why, I am getting the cam journals checked this weekend to see if there out of round. Maby it was binding at a certain rpm. That still doesn't tell me why the stock cams and springs work just fine.

 

Installing stock cams with stock springs is 10x easier.

Need to make sure belt is tight 1) in da front, 2) on da top, 3) on da back above the water pump and 4) and da back below da water pump and tensioner.

THIS IS CRITICAL. VERY EASY TO GET IT WRONG WID HEAVER SPRINGS AND CAMS WITH BIGGER PRIMARIES (READ THIS SENTENCE TILL YA PUKE). THE YOU WILL BE ENLIGHTENED.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Installing stock cams with stock springs is 10x easier.

Need to make sure belt is tight 1) in da front, 2) on da top, 3) on da back above the water pump and 4) and da back below da water pump and tensioner.

THIS IS CRITICAL. VERY EASY TO GET IT WRONG WID HEAVER SPRINGS AND CAMS WITH BIGGER PRIMARIES (READ THIS SENTENCE TILL YA PUKE). THE YOU WILL BE ENLIGHTENED.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Me learned da hawd way on my very first build Bent valves ftl

 

I think the greddy belt is f'ed up.

 

OEM Belts

My method of doing my timing belts: once everything is line up TDC, I take a 19mm Socket (obviously were working on B series, 17mm for the D series) and ratchet and pull tension on the FRONT side of then engine via the crank bolt. Make sure the cam gears are still where they need to be. At this point if it skips a tooth, youll hear it. I then use a piece of metal rod (coathanger if you will) with a bend on the end and pull the tensioner up to tighten the belt on the rear side of the engine. Then tighten the tensioner up. This menthod has worked for years for me

edit: Im running S2 Pro1s, Pro gears, S2 Tuner Springs and retainers with almost 12:1 CR. All on a B18CR

 

I had the same problem with my Pro1's and Pro VT. jumped when it was warming up after a fresh build..jumped....died...and a week or so later I snapped a valve, and bye bye forged pistons/block/head

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cpt Ben &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem with my Pro1's and Pro VT. jumped when it was warming up after a fresh build..jumped....died...and a week or so later I snapped a valve, and bye bye forged pistons/block/head</TD></TR></TABLE>
ouch!

 

which water pump you using?

i have heard if you mix up the water pump from the LS to GSR or vice versa you will run into belts not fitting or jumping teeth?

 

Its a 22t gsr pump, Also it can't be the water pump or else it wouldn't have run good in stock form.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Chick Magnet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take a clothes hanger and make it long and fold the tip and put it where the tensioner spring goes on the belt tensioner and have someone pull on it real hard while you tighten the tensioner bolt..thats how I did it on mine and it worked good..belt is on real tight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats similar to how i do it

 

I would be careful how much you pry on that tensioner when tightening that belt. There is actually a point where you can get the belt too tight, which will begin to pull down on the camgears.

The result is the lower half of the cam journals on the camgear end, and the top of the cam journals on the distributor end will wear prematurely.

Just my .02.

(I used to be a cylinder head machinist, saw this a lot.)