Anyone using a manual brake setup? if so are you using the Master cylinder that mounts inside the car or are you using the firewall mounted master cylinder?

 

we have manual brakes on our 2 hotrod cars, and they <U>absolutly</U> <U>suck</U>. goodluck stopping at 160 !

perhaps if the pivot point was changed they would be more effective

 

Yes, firewall mounted master cylinder for the fronts, Wilwood 3/4" bore and a rear staging brake mounted on the passenger floor.

Contact rota92 for a great price on Wilwood.

 

This is all in my 1995 240sx, but a you get the idea...

My adapter



Master cylinder



modded factory "horseshoe" thing lol



completed assembly



installed

 

whats the real benifit of a setup like this? weight/cleanliness/dont worry about vaccum-booster?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the real benifit of a setup like this? weight/cleanliness/dont worry about vaccum-booster?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you have issues with low vaccumm or have your brake booster hose blow off good luck stopping.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaveF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we have manual brakes on our 2 hotrod cars, and they <U>absolutly</U> <U>suck</U>. goodluck stopping at 160 !

perhaps if the pivot point was changed they would be more effective</TD></TR></TABLE>

What size master are you using Dave?

 

3/4 X 2 (each side is 3/4)




Modified by DaveF at 12:58 PM 7/7/2008

 

we use gsr w/antilocke it has a biger piston and bolts to stock holes

 

Dave, so you've got 2 3/4 masters, one going to each wheel? If so, i would think that's way too much master and the reason your brakes are probably very hard. Try going down on master cylinder size, it'll give you a lot more brake pressure for a given pedal effort.

 

ya, thats what ive/we've got. and its not easy to stop to say the least. (ive gone into the sandpit once already )

would you attempt to T both off of one cyl and capping the other off, or will that not work ?

 

How is it inside? Is there any type of bias bar setup?

I don't think it'll be a good idea because it's going to side load the piston since one side will be "dead" and not have pressure. Make sense? I'd replace the master cylinder.

 

on the inside its got 2 heims that go to the cyls, then a heim in between the other 2 that goes to the pedal.


how are the brakes on your car without the booster ? did you make a bracket to mount the master cyl to the firewall ?

 

I made an adaptor plate on mine to allow it to bolt to the firewall w/o the booster and i also made the shaft to actuate the master from the pedal. My car had a 1" master and it's too big. I can stop the car from 150, but not as easy as i'd like to, i'm going to change it, i think i'm going to try a 3/4. My brakes right now are exactly like a stock honda that's not running. We've all towed a broken down honda at some point with a tow rope. lol

 

so in that case, would you suggest an oem honda master or an aftermarket one such as a CNC unit, wilwood, tilton ETC ?

 

I would go with a Tilton one.

 

With the setup like you are talking about DaveF, you have the real potential to spin the car. If the bias isn't just right, you are going to apply uneven braking force from side to side. If you have a failure in one line, it's almost certain to spin. At least with both fronts tied to the same line, if you do have a failure, the car will go straight into the sand and the chute and rear staging brake could slow you down enough to save your butt still.

What kind of front calipers are you guys using?

 

Very true, that's about as bad a setup you could possibly come up with for that application Dave. lol

 

i belive the original intent was to have one side for front, other side for rear(it had an adjustable prop valve for front/rear bias) ( i didnt design the "brake system"

i got rid of the staging brake with no master, the rear is on the staging brake alone (staging brake now has its own master)

the front is simply 1 cyl per side


thanks for all of the insight. this wasnt my thread, but im sure it will save alot of people from the same headache i am dealing with.

 

i was gonna use a stock prop valve with a wilwood or a tilton master. my intake manifold is very close to smacking into the master cylinder so i could use some extra clearance in that area.

 

We use the reverse mount setup that uses two master cyls also. You make a dummy m/cyl mount and bias it all to the one master cyl. We did that for underhood room so everything is under the dash. Works pretty good. It has been a while since I set it up but we tried several m/cyl sizes and used one that worked the best. Cant remember the size though.

 

If there is any way you can find out what mc size you used, I'd appreciate it. I'm setting up a Tilton reverse mount dual pedal/tripple mc box with 6.2:1 pedal ratio and wanted to find out the right mc size to use. I'm using 5/8" for clutch, but unsure what sizes to use for brakes yet.

Also, do people (sfwd, t/s,...) mostly run just the front brakes for stopping and rears for staging/burn out only, or did anyone set it up differently? Perhaps, an additional set of calipers on the back just for staging (that might add an additional 10-15lbs) or just put a line lock on the rears? That is what I originally had in mind, but not real sure now after searching some old threads.. I'm asking these questions because I've never drove with skinnies on the back and don't know if the rears lock up too easy when trying to stop or if a bias valve can be installed to make the use of rear brakes still possible on the drag stip and still useable on the street.

If anyone who still has use of all 4 brakes for stopping can post a diagram, pics or info that would be great.


Modified by preludeserge at 10:16 AM 7/9/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludeserge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If there is any way you can find out what mc size you used, I'd appreciate it. I'm setting up a Tilton reverse mount dual pedal/tripple mc box with 6.2:1 pedal ratio and wanted to find out the right mc size to use. I'm using 5/8" for clutch, but unsure what sizes to use for brakes yet.



If


Modified by preludeserge at 5:35 PM 7/8/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you pm me Sun and remind me I will find out sizes and try to get you a pic. I am about 400 miles away from the car on vacation till then. That m/c bracket is the same one I am using.

 

Cool beans. I'll do that.

 

I have the kens kustom chassis honda master cyl kit and I was impressed by how well it works, I am not trapping anywhere close to where you guys are but I tried a few 100mph emergency stops and it works extremely well, way better than when I had s stock mc with out a booster.