Yes, I know to clay them. I'm in the process of doing it right now haha. Question is...does anyone know what the tolerances are?

 

what kinda motor are we talking about

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Seminole &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, I know to clay them. I'm in the process of doing it right now haha. Question is...does anyone know what the tolerances are?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is this a trick question?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1891614

 

LS/VTEC with CTR pistons and TODA Spec C2 cams.

No, not trick question. Sorry, I kinda worded that weird. I mean...like clearances. What should they be at. This is what I'm thinking, with VTEC lobe locked in of course.

Intake: 0.030 - 0.040
Exhaust: 0.060
Edge: 0.050 - .0.060

and for Valve to Valve I'm thinking 0.030 to be safe, but I've heard of people running 0.017 - 0.020 and being fine, but that makes me

Oh and thanks Hotrod99 I knew that was around here somewhere. I just couldn't find it. I thought I subscribed to it but apparently not


Modified by Seminole at 5:54 AM 7/3/2008

 

Up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Seminole &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS/VTEC with CTR pistons and TODA Spec C2 cams.

No, not trick question. Sorry, I kinda worded that weird. I mean...like clearances. What should they be at. This is what I'm thinking, with VTEC lobe locked in of course.

Intake: 0.030 - 0.040
Exhaust: 0.060
Edge: 0.050 - .0.060

and for Valve to Valve I'm thinking 0.030 to be safe, but I've heard of people running 0.017 - 0.020 and being fine, but that makes me

</TD></TR></TABLE>

P2H I ran .040"
Intake = .050"
Exhaust = .08"
V2V = .030"

I was told to run those p2v clearances by a very reputable builder here. He explained that for a DD the clearances should be a bit more than a drag motor.

 

Hmmm...just curious, who is the builder?

I talked to King Motorsports in WI and they said what I was thinking will be fine...

Thing is it isn't really my DD...kinda I guess, but my real DD is my 600RR

 

PM'ed

 

Thanks for the info. That's interesting and good to know

"DD cars you want a bit more clearance since cast pistons expand more than forged. It also gives you a bit more clearance in case you miss-shift and over rev the motor.
For an all out drag car or fully built motor with forged internals, the pistons won't expand as much and the piston rock won't be as much either, therefore you can run tighter clearances."

Also, I have some concerns with my bottom end. It turns over EXTREMELY difficult whereas the block I'm doing for someone else can be turned over by hand. 2 different machine shops, 2 different results. I'm going to go back through and check clearances on my block again...I dunno if I trust it. What do you all think? To turn it over you have to use a pretty good amount of force with a tool...I think they f***ed it up when they machined it...maybe the align hone is off or something.

 

bump

 

I wouldn't run as is.

Pull off the oil pump and see if it turns over easier. If so the align hone is off.

If not keep going through it, I had a main bearing all chewed up (delaminated) when attempting to degree my cams. Probably caused by a bit of dirt. Lucky I found it before I installed the motor.

 

Yea, that's what I was thinking too...I was planning on pulling the oil pump and starting to tear everything off again to see if it turns over easier...but... who knows. I think that's the problem though...The bearings should all be good they're all brand new bearings. But yeah, that's what I was thinking too Thanks.

 

Yea, that's what I was thinking too...I was planning on pulling the oil pump and starting to tear everything off again to see if it turns over easier...but... who knows. I think that's the problem though...The bearings should all be good they're all brand new bearings. But yeah, that's what I was thinking too Thanks.

 

Allllright, so I tore everything off...still turns over extremely hard...I have no idea what the problem is...[freak]ing machine shop sucks. In the process of getting a new block and getting it redone.

 

Anyone got any ideas other than my block is screwed?

 

Anyone got any ideas other than my block is screwed?

 

have ur crank checked if its straight.. maybe?

 

You're going to have to remove one piece at a time and check after each item you remove. Start with the transmission, make sure it's out of gear, check it, and then remove it. Check the rotation of the mainshaft. Remove the cams and timing belt and check it again. Remove the head and one piston at a time, then check it after each piston is removed. Keep going until you're down to just the block and crank, then recheck your bearing clearances. If the clearances check out okay, then the block or crank is crooked.

 

Thanks for the feedback.