I'm planning on doing a full h22a trans/motor swap in my 91 hatch. I was wondering what mount will work the best for me. I dont want a mount that will make the intake manifold hit the firewall. Cutting a hole in the hood is something I would want to try stay away from unless I can get a sir style hood from vis. I want a mount kit that I can work with easier. I heard some stories on some after market traction bars either not working or rubbing the crank shaft. What would be the best bars out there?

 

i'd say the esp mounts and bar are 99.999% likely to work with each other, seeing as how hes a small orginization with no interest in anything but H-series motors, I doubt he would make a bar that wouldn't clear with his own motor mounts.

 

innovative's competition bar fits with thier h22 mounts

 

i have hasport and full race on my rex

 

the thing is i've already have the etd racing traction bars set up in my civic already. I like their set up because it has eg style radiator mounts that you can bolt on to. I've emailed them, asking if it would fit with a h22a swap in the ef, but didnt say what mounts would be the best. It's more likely I might end up buying a set of esp. net swap mounts any how. Just seeing if there any easier or better suggestions. Curious is the axle is the same spline as a type r 5 lug hubs? I was also thinking about doing a 5 lug swap on the hatch as well. Not sure if i should or if it worth every penny to do so.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91redrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have hasport and full race on my rex </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did your swap mounts made you cut a hole in the hood or make a dent in the firewall for intake manifold clearance? Do you have any pictures by any chance? Looks like your aviatar with a crx with a oem finish hood and no hole in the hood.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4DRmafia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did your swap mounts made you cut a hole in the hood or make a dent in the firewall for intake manifold clearance? Do you have any pictures by any chance? Looks like your aviatar with a crx with a oem finish hood and no hole in the hood.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no i have a jdm front end so the hood cleared....on the firewall i didnt have to dent anything but just a little bit where the tps is...i dont have any pics yet but i'll throw you asap

 

to be honest the hasport and esp mounts are way different cuz the haport put the h22 to sit higher so the oil pan wont hit....esp put the h22 to sit lower to clear the hood...so just know that...

 

If I were to put an H22 swap in my crx, I would use the kit from ESP.

THis is the owners car---Plenty of room with the hood and firewall..etc.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91redrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to be honest the hasport and esp mounts are way different cuz the haport put the h22 to sit higher so the oil pan wont hit....esp put the h22 to sit lower to clear the hood...so just know that...</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is true about the oil plan as well. I didnt think of that. Show me some pictures when you can, no rush. I know on a crx you have this console that easily hide your shifter assy, while on a civic hatch like mines just got this console that dont connect to the dash like the crx does. How would i go around hiding the shifter assy? Use the jdm console piece in between?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I were to put an H22 swap in my crx, I would use the kit from ESP.

THis is the owners car---Plenty of room with the hood and firewall..etc.....


</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but 3 1/2 inch from ground to the oil pan? I mean it wont bother me because I'm not planning to slam my car at all, Prolly a drop like the crx has. Just never know when a dip is going to eat the pan apart.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4DRmafia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that is true about the oil plan as well. I didnt think of that. Show me some pictures when you can, no rush. I know on a crx you have this console that easily hide your shifter assy, while on a civic hatch like mines just got this console that dont connect to the dash like the crx does. How would i go around hiding the shifter assy? Use the jdm console piece in between? </TD></TR></TABLE>

alright yeah...ill post pixs up 2morrow for sure....yeah you can do 2 things for the shifter...mount it like hasport says..or for you ...you can mount the shifter from the bottom up...and mount it like that to keep your console lookin oem...kind of like the k20 swap in a ef..you know what i mean..??...i picked hasport cuz of that oil pan...and i rather pay a lil more for better lookin mounts...i'm not hatin on esp he does great work and all..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I were to put an H22 swap in my crx, I would use the kit from ESP.

THis is the owners car---Plenty of room with the hood and firewall..etc.....


</TD></TR></TABLE>

he does have a clean set up.....hands down...but my rex isnt slammed but i dont have a fender gap like him..and if i wanted to slam it and i know the oil pan wouldnt hit at all...

 

So your're saying I can mount the stock factory prelude or accord shifter assy from under the car or on top either way? I think i want the oem look, sorta sleeper type i guess. Dont wanna scare away the v8 guys lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4DRmafia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So your're saying I can mount the stock factory prelude or accord shifter assy from under the car or on top either way? I think i want the oem look, sorta sleeper type i guess. Dont wanna scare away the v8 guys lol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah its up to you....i had both accord and prelude shifters but i ended up using the 97 prelude shifter...but the accord sits a little lower and not as bulky as the prelude my best bet would you use the accord one and you can probably bolt it on top....but first check all your fitments top and bottom then install it...yeah v8 killa...i'm building a h22 on the side to make 500-800 hp to kill some v8's or like i say murder v8's...say tuned for that build thread...lol...

 

After all, is it a really hard swap to do? I've done b series tons of time. H22a is new to me and i want to do it since everybody around here is a b series freak.

 

not really....first you have to drill out your old tranny bracket(oem)...and weld in the hasport one then put the motor and check where the motor hits then bang away....one place is the tranny frame rail..just a little to clear the tranny...what i mean is a good whack thats it....then the firewall where the tps is just enough to be able to plug the sensor and un plug it...but thats why i went h22 all the ef have b motors...and i have a wire tuck not shaved... its up to you man...

 

You make it sound easy lol. Esp swap mount is the same thing but no bangging at the firewall. what to do, what to do. lol

 

edit: how much did it cost you at the end for everything? I found some h22a swaps with lsd tranny going for 1,750's on ebay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4DRmafia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You make it sound easy lol. Esp swap mount is the same thing but no bangging at the firewall. what to do, what to do. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok heres the deal with the esp mounts you have to notch the rear cross member to fit the tranny in...???i would rather not notch my rear cross member.....http://www.explicitspeedperformance....To.html...look at the tranny pic....i pick hasport cuz i know they took their time building these mounts to almost perfect fit...they put the oil pan first then tryin to keep hood clearance ...then hasport been in the game longer and you get a better built mount....that says something to me...the only way to clear the firewall is to run a shorter intake manifold....or just out line the firewall where you bang then cut it out and add piece of sheet metal to push it back a little ....but try to make it look oem or clean....thats my plan...

the swap was $2000 with lsd
axles $180 custom made
hasport mount like $800-now their like $650-700
0bd0-odb1 harness $80
full-race traction bar $475
full-race radiator $300(not needed but wanted it)

total+$3835

you use a sir style hood for the usdm hatch front or go with a full jdm front end....

 

thanks for the input man! so the hasport kit doesnt need any notch in the rear cross member at all?

 

Some recent pix of my ESP H22A Crx are below

Customers Y49 Crx







ESP EF H22A Swap Benefits:

- Clears factory firewall
- Clears factory USDM EF hood
- Uses a clutch cable/hydro conversion lever system that works opposite of whats on the market therefor no stress on clutch cable, also has a better ratio which makes a stage 3 clutch seem like a factory clutch far as engagement
- Uses the much better and proven midshaft and axle combo, Accord and Integra
- Only requires 1 custom axle
- Axle alignment is dead nut
- Specially made EF H22A traction bar system in our EF H22A Packaged Deal
- We also make a 4-2-1 H22A Header that we call the pan hugger so there is no worries about the header hanging massively low like almost all lower brand headers
- Engine room in the front is more so then a GSR EF swap or B16. Engine sits back further = better weight distribution and more room up front.
- We were the first to come out with this kit after PR
- We were the first to offer a H and D series alternator kit for it.
- Highest point of the engine is about 1/2" from hood. We got it as high as we could. Ground clearance is very respectable with a decent shock and coilover setup I have atleast 2" drop never hit a thing.
- 3+ years of daily driving and over 2 dozen pass's down the track.
- Same axles and midshaft as day 1

- We spent over 2 months eating and breathing EF H22A night and day to get the kit perfect. This kit got us on the map. EF H22A swap is a tight squeeze we believe we got it exactly where it needs to be it does take some work.



Modified by ESP.net at 12:57 PM 7/3/2008

 

Do I have to notch the rear crossmember with the esp swap mounts? It said it for the transmission fill nut.

edit: some people voted innonative swap mounts, why are they the best?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4DRmafia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the input man! so the hasport kit doesnt need any notch in the rear cross member at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no the crossmember is not touched......i couldnt get any recent pics up...but i found some old swap pics i took during the swap...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP.net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some recent pix of my ESP H22A Crx are below

Customers Y49 Crx







ESP EF H22A Swap Benefits:

- Clears factory firewall
- Clears factory USDM EF hood
- Uses a clutch cable/hydro conversion lever system that works opposite of whats on the market therefor no stress on clutch cable, also has a better ratio which makes a stage 3 clutch seem like a factory clutch far as engagement
- Uses the much better and proven midshaft and axle combo, Accord and Integra
- Only requires 1 custom axle
- Axle alignment is dead nut
- Specially made EF H22A traction bar system in our EF H22A Packaged Deal
- We also make a 4-2-1 H22A Header that we call the pan hugger so there is no worries about the header hanging massively low like almost all lower brand headers
- Engine room in the front is more so then a GSR EF swap or B16. Engine sits back further = better weight distribution and more room up front.
- We were the first to come out with this kit after PR
- We were the first to offer a H and D series alternator kit for it.
- Highest point of the engine is about 1/2" from hood. We got it as high as we could. Ground clearance is very respectable with a decent shock and coilover setup I have atleast 2" drop never hit a thing.
- 3+ years of daily driving and over 2 dozen pass's down the track.
- Same axles and midshaft as day 1

- We spent over 2 months eating and breathing EF H22A night and day to get the kit perfect. This kit got us on the map. EF H22A swap is a tight squeeze we believe we got it exactly where it needs to be it does take some work.

Modified by ESP.net at 12:57 PM 7/3/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i remember your thread long ago when you first started the h22 swap...clean rex man....im not dissin you work man...but more of getting info on different mounts out there and how they are...