I have the speedo gauge out of my console, and pulled out of the gauge pod.

I was wondering if anyone has tips on where i should solder the circuit board.

I'll have pics up soon.

 

Solder it for what?

 

The speedometer ya troll...

In my searches on here i have been told that the Printed Circuit board is the culprit in the non functioning speedometer mystery that is common in 94-97 Honda Accords. either that or a bad VSS

Well I pulled the gauge out, removed the speedometer gauge from the pod assembly, and noticed that the printed circuit board was fine, no breaks, no wear, nothing out of the unusual.

I also noticed that the pins that connect the PCB to the back of the speedo were clean.

Wanting to experiment...i first cleaned the pins that lead to the speedo from the PCB with WD-40 on a q-tip.

i sprayed the q-tip, dabbed the pins. reassembled....and tada!! IT WORKS!

so as a fyi...if your speedo is shot, try cleaning the pins that connect the printed circuit board (PCB) to the speedo. A dab of WD-40 on a q-tip does the trick.

 

troll?

I'm one of the people who pioneered that fix cupcake, where in your post do you make any mention of what the purpose is of soldering it?

Are you trying to put some indiglo gauges? are you bored trying to stab it with a hot piece of metal? Are you trying to install a 12ft diameter speedometer?

And no your WD-40 is a temporary fix at best. The problem lies with heating and cooling the solder which over time causes it to crack and causing a gap between the contacts.

Heating up any of the points that seem to be slightly lifted solves the problem or replacing the green IC behind the speedometer does the same.

 

no im not adding indiglo gauges or anything of the like.

Ok ok so my WD-40 is a temp fix, which is fine because I really need to get this car smog checked. They will not allow a car to pass smog if you do not have a working speedo.

I have inspected the backside of the Printed circuit board and could not find any lifted connections. All seem to be in order and not cracked.

I've also noticed that I throw a code (p1758 TCM A/T Lockup Solenoid Valve "B" Fault )
and when i go to clear it...the speedo doesnt work.

These CD5 Accords sure are more of a pain in the butt then i thought, all the repairs i have had to do to this car reminds me of my Jeep days...and thats not a good thing.

 

Well see the point though? You don't say what you're trying to do. If you can't visually see any problems with any of the points your best bet is to LIGHTLY touch each of the contacts with a soldering iron (15W is fine) and just heat it up a bit.

The alternative would be to swap the green IC completely.

And what do you mean go to clear it? Like pull the ECU fuse?

 

Your car is a CD7 lol, not CD5.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealth723 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your car is a CD7 lol, not CD5.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you for that incredibly well thought out and useful post

 

do you happen to know the part # of the ic, can it be easily sourced?
thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sammuel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you happen to know the part # of the ic, can it be easily sourced?
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depressingly you can't buy it just separate, you'll need to buy a working cluster (ebay is best bet or junkyard) and take it from there.

So yeah in my opinion it can be easily sourced, I had 4 clusters at one point haha and I don't think I spent more than $30 getting them.

If you need to know how to remove the cluster check out the Cluster Removal Thread in the Accord FAQ w/ pics.

 

thx. i will check out the faq.