ITB's on a D16Z6...
Alright, so I already have the itb's and they look real nice, good welds and what not... from what I found they are actually 4AGE ITB's usually found on an AE86... here is a pic...

So with that said, Im going to be doing a complete build on my z6 with port and polish and all... but i have a few questions still. first off *** for the vac line going to the brake booster, do ITB's make your brakes harder to push in? then also MAP sensor? IACV Sensor? do you just tune the ecu w/o these sensors? lastly i was told Id need 4 widebands to tune? is this true or could i just take an old header and weld in 3 more bungs and just take one wideband and tune them one by one? thanks for any and all input... very much appreciated!

So with that said, Im going to be doing a complete build on my z6 with port and polish and all... but i have a few questions still. first off *** for the vac line going to the brake booster, do ITB's make your brakes harder to push in? then also MAP sensor? IACV Sensor? do you just tune the ecu w/o these sensors? lastly i was told Id need 4 widebands to tune? is this true or could i just take an old header and weld in 3 more bungs and just take one wideband and tune them one by one? thanks for any and all input... very much appreciated!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFstyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first off as for the vac line going to the brake booster, do ITB's make your brakes harder to push in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a 10-32 port in each runner with a line going to a custom made vacuum manifold. The vac. mani. has my stock MAP, IAC, and brake booster running off it. First pump on the brakes feels fine, just like stock, but if I have to pump the brakes again before the butterflies close, they feel hard because the vacuum hasn't re-charged the manifold and brake booster. I'm going to make them 1/8" NPT for more volume and vacuum.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFstyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then also MAP sensor? IACV Sensor? do you just tune the ecu w/o these sensors?</TD></TR></TABLE>
My MAP sensor does register enough vacuum to keep from throwing a CEL, but I've lost about 50% of it's range. In Crome, I have idle to @ 2000 RPM reading the MAP sensor, then it switches to TPS above that. I put the stock IAC on there just to avoid a CEL, I really don't need it anymore.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFstyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> lastly i was told Id need 4 widebands to tune? is this true or could i just take an old header and weld in 3 more bungs and just take one wideband and tune them one by one?</TD></TR></TABLE>
huh? If you're a baller, you could certainly run 4 widebands, but I don't think many do. If your concern is about syncing each runner, what you really need is a Uni-Syn. It's an old school Weber carb. tuning piece. Looks like this, pm me if you need one.

my vacuum mani.
I have a 10-32 port in each runner with a line going to a custom made vacuum manifold. The vac. mani. has my stock MAP, IAC, and brake booster running off it. First pump on the brakes feels fine, just like stock, but if I have to pump the brakes again before the butterflies close, they feel hard because the vacuum hasn't re-charged the manifold and brake booster. I'm going to make them 1/8" NPT for more volume and vacuum.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFstyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then also MAP sensor? IACV Sensor? do you just tune the ecu w/o these sensors?</TD></TR></TABLE>
My MAP sensor does register enough vacuum to keep from throwing a CEL, but I've lost about 50% of it's range. In Crome, I have idle to @ 2000 RPM reading the MAP sensor, then it switches to TPS above that. I put the stock IAC on there just to avoid a CEL, I really don't need it anymore.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFstyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> lastly i was told Id need 4 widebands to tune? is this true or could i just take an old header and weld in 3 more bungs and just take one wideband and tune them one by one?</TD></TR></TABLE>
huh? If you're a baller, you could certainly run 4 widebands, but I don't think many do. If your concern is about syncing each runner, what you really need is a Uni-Syn. It's an old school Weber carb. tuning piece. Looks like this, pm me if you need one.

my vacuum mani.
There should already be vacuum ports available for you to run a vacuum log / vacuum manifold. Golden eagle makes a small aluminum block style vacuum log. I found when I tested my larger diameter vacuum manifold the pulse type vacuum that everyone complains about is virtually non existent. The down side is a big *** log on top of your ITB's. It kind of takes away from the bling factor if that's all your after.
You can actually throw away your IACV and your tuner can disable the sensor on the tuned ROM. Crome & eCtune both have the IACV disable function.
As for syncing your ITB's your going to want to use a 4 line mercury vacuum tool. It's much faster and easier than trying to adjust one at a time. The syncPro carb tuner I bought doesn't actually use mercury like the old ones did. (It's environmentally friendly) You could probably hook up with a bike mechanic and ask if you could borrow a set vs buying one. I have a buddy that fixes bikes and he let me sync a few bikes with my SyncPro, once you get the hand of it, there pretty easy to use.
Here is a pic of the more expensive Carbtune version, they work great for sync'n multiple carbs quickly so there is no messing with idle for an hour.

I'm going to be tuning my setup with 4 Exhaust Gas Thermal couplers and 2 WB O2's. 4 O2's is probably a bit much.
Best bet is to find a local tuner and see if they feel comfortable tuning ITB's. If you can find one that's when you ask him what you should have prior to him tuning them on a dyno. Probably get away with only using one????
Modified by GhostAccord at 8:31 PM 6/30/2008
You can actually throw away your IACV and your tuner can disable the sensor on the tuned ROM. Crome & eCtune both have the IACV disable function.
As for syncing your ITB's your going to want to use a 4 line mercury vacuum tool. It's much faster and easier than trying to adjust one at a time. The syncPro carb tuner I bought doesn't actually use mercury like the old ones did. (It's environmentally friendly) You could probably hook up with a bike mechanic and ask if you could borrow a set vs buying one. I have a buddy that fixes bikes and he let me sync a few bikes with my SyncPro, once you get the hand of it, there pretty easy to use.
Here is a pic of the more expensive Carbtune version, they work great for sync'n multiple carbs quickly so there is no messing with idle for an hour.

I'm going to be tuning my setup with 4 Exhaust Gas Thermal couplers and 2 WB O2's. 4 O2's is probably a bit much.
Best bet is to find a local tuner and see if they feel comfortable tuning ITB's. If you can find one that's when you ask him what you should have prior to him tuning them on a dyno. Probably get away with only using one????
Modified by GhostAccord at 8:31 PM 6/30/2008
wow I never knew anyone had ITB's on a d16. that is pretty sweet. In for numbers
My question is though with all the money you'll spend rebuilding the motor and what not, wouldn't it be worth it to just invest in either a h22 or b18c1. just wondering
My question is though with all the money you'll spend rebuilding the motor and what not, wouldn't it be worth it to just invest in either a h22 or b18c1. just wondering
Sorry, No dyno numbers or vids for my setup yet. I only had them on my block long enough to do some quick vacuum and idle testing and that was it. I'm in the middle of my <FONT COLOR="darkred"> rebuild</FONT> now.
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I'll have #'s and vids before the end of this summer. I was never satisfied with what I could do with Crome, I'm so much more familiar with AEM, I'm making a jumper harness to use the 1070 box in of my EP in both cars. I'm also waiting on valve springs to finish my ported head (currently not on car) with a custom Bisimoto cam. Before I put it back on the ported head, they're opening up the vac. ports, from 10-32 to 1/8" npt and installing 1.997" dia. butterflies (1.993" currently installed) to help improve the vac. signal.
-It wasn't about hitting a HP number for me, I've just wanted to do this for the last 6 years, the sound, the throttle response.... okay, I like the ooh's and ahh's a little too.
-It wasn't about hitting a HP number for me, I've just wanted to do this for the last 6 years, the sound, the throttle response.... okay, I like the ooh's and ahh's a little too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scmil95eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll have #'s and vids before the end of this summer. I was never satisfied with what I could do with Crome, I'm so much more familiar with AEM, I'm making a jumper harness to use the 1070 box in of my EP in both cars. I'm also waiting on valve springs to finish my ported head (currently not on car) with a custom Bisimoto cam. Before I put it back on the ported head, they're opening up the vac. ports, from 10-32 to 1/8" npt and installing 1.997" dia. butterflies (1.993" currently installed) to help improve the vac. signal.
-It wasn't about hitting a HP number for me, I've just wanted to do this for the last 6 years, the sound, the throttle response.... okay, I like the ooh's and ahh's a little too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah for sure, this seems like a fun project to take under
-It wasn't about hitting a HP number for me, I've just wanted to do this for the last 6 years, the sound, the throttle response.... okay, I like the ooh's and ahh's a little too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah for sure, this seems like a fun project to take under
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[/B]
yeah for sure, this seems like a fun project to take under</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i cant wait till mine are on
yeah for sure, this seems like a fun project to take under</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i cant wait till mine are on
All you need to do is make a New Vacuum Canister with more ports for the Brake Booster, IACV, and Map Snesor basically like the one that came with the ITB's when you bought them and you'll be golden ! !
im pretty sure ill be able to tune it with just the TPS sensor... but then i guess i still need a vac cannister for the brake booster anyways...
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