Hi Everyone, i wanted to open his topic so we can discuss a little about these camshafts and my setup, i want everyone's honest opinion about what i'm going to say but first let's talk about the Specs so you can have a better idea

1993 Integra LS OBD1:

Head:
NO port n polishing or resurfacing or anything, stock head
JG 308/316 Cams
JG Valve, Springs & Retainers Kit
H22 345CC Injectors (No Resistor BOX)
BLOX Intake Manifold 68mm Port-matched
Hondata Gasket
Power Industries 68mm unported throttle
Generic EBAY 2.75" intake
Vortech Fuel Pressure Regulator

Block
B18C5 Casement Block
B18A1 Crankshaft
Eagle Non Vtec Piston Rods
WISECO "11.1" 82.5mm Pistons
Block Guard
OEM 3layer Headgasket

MEgan Racing 4-1 Header 2.5"
TSUDO N2 Exhaust 2.5"
P28 Programmable Chipped ECU


in order to give you an idea in case i am missing something, 193whp and 140 torque

now comes the thing.....the camshafts are equal to a stage 4 cams, some people tell me that i should get rid of it because the car will make more power and be "more reliable" with a stage 2 cams (skunk2 Pro or TODA B) because these cams have excessive lift and duration, i beleive wonders can be done with these cams and this setup with the proper port n polished head, throttle and intake manifold (wich is gettin done as we speak) and a proper tuning once again i beleive it wont be a problem or nuisance to use these stage 4 cams, what you guys think?!?!

 

anyone....?

 

with a built head a good tune those cams should be fine?? the realiable factor comes into to play with an unbuilt head, but since it sounds like you have a built head i dont see why those cams would be a problem??? just make sure the cams are of a quality manufacturer etc. good luck hope that helped some.

 

the issue you're going to have running a cam like that is driveability.

Do you think you're going to want to drive an all out race car stoplight-to-stoplight?
-jonathan

 

about the driveability, these cams don't oscillate that bad compared to other cams i've seen, for example, these goes from 1000rpms to 1020rpms and back to 1000 and so on, and its every once in a while it's not constant, of course i am amazed to see this reaction from a stage4 cam, but driveability is not an issue.....so far jejeje, but according to the setup you guys think i should step down to a stage 2 to "keep up par" or stage 4 its just "too much for it" or "it works"

 

its your car man

if you can live with these stgIV cams then by all means do it.

 

put it this.. how many people can say they have stage 4 cams? haha jm Obviously they're good, I mean JG is pretty reputable. I don't know if I'm misreading your first post, but it looks like you're saying you have an LS head on a type R block.. or are you running straight type R? and im thinking does that even work ls head on type r block hahah thatd be kinda cool

 

you've misread, i have a type r block with a LS crankshaft and i have a stock pr3 head, no port polishing or anything whatsoever, what i want to do with this post its to discuss the usage of stage 4 cams on a street car and its pros n cons, i am actually driving and using the setup i just described, i dont want your "approval" to do it jejeje, anyways, as soon as i get the new port polished head i will let you know how much it has improved and how docile the car goes jejeje

 

whats jejeje?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hotrod99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats jejeje?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he means......hehehe??


You need better flow, and higher compression to get the maximun power out of those cams, more like 13:1 comp. and a good port and polish, and a good tunned up hondata S300

 

oh....lol

 

yeah i agree. i think thats way to much cam for your setup. the motor doesnt have the ability to move as much air as these camshafts were designed for, plain and simple. in order to accommodate these cams you would def need a port and polish and some higher comp pistons, at least. id recommend a skunk 2 stage 2 cam or something similar as well as a port and polish. this is only my opinion, but i do think that some of these guys dont quite understand how cams can hurt your power and/or place it beyond the reaches of the motor (ie 8500 rpms or something high like that) especially if its daily driven. good luck!

 

thank you for your answer, its a very productive one, all i can do right now is do the port polishing and valve job to the head and the job to the intake manifold and the job to the throttle, i cannot go with hi comp pistons because right now as we speak with my 11.63:1 comp ratio its very easy to detonate, the gas here sucks big time, in the meanwhile im mixing the gas with hi octane gas (109 to be exact) in order to compensate......anyways when i get these jobs done i will test the cams like this, is i see that still the cams are too much i will downgrade to a TODA B Spec or a Skunk2 Pro or a Blox Type B, thank you people for your input specially to be18see1

 

Pro 2's would be plenty for your build. Stage 4 = overcammed as already mentioned

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tasty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you for your answer, its a very productive one, all i can do right now is do the port polishing and valve job to the head and the job to the intake manifold and the job to the throttle, i cannot go with hi comp pistons because right now as we speak with my 11.63:1 comp ratio its very easy to detonate, the gas here sucks big time, in the meanwhile im mixing the gas with hi octane gas (109 to be exact) in order to compensate......anyways when i get these jobs done i will test the cams like this, is i see that still the cams are too much i will downgrade to a TODA B Spec or a Skunk2 Pro or a Blox Type B, thank you people for your input specially to be18see1</TD></TR></TABLE>

glad i could help!