Home Made Fender Braces
Hondas are many things, but stiff is not one of them. Chassis flex is a real issue with Hondas that get driven in a "spirited" manner. My Old School 1987 CRX (a collection of parts flying in loose formation down the road as described by MrKwicko) is particularly prove to flex under heavy usage.
Strut braces are a help, but the real problem is that everything from the firewall forward is not particularly well triangulated. It is possible to buy off the shelf Fender Braces for many cars, but not for my 1st gen. Here is my solution.

The result is the the front end of my car is much stiffer. the car turns better, stops better and puts the power down better. Cost of materiels was next to nothing and the hardest part was getting the fenders off.
Scott
Strut braces are a help, but the real problem is that everything from the firewall forward is not particularly well triangulated. It is possible to buy off the shelf Fender Braces for many cars, but not for my 1st gen. Here is my solution.

The result is the the front end of my car is much stiffer. the car turns better, stops better and puts the power down better. Cost of materiels was next to nothing and the hardest part was getting the fenders off.
Scott
I'm not trying to be a jerk or anything so don't get me wrong. But do you have anything to back that up? Do you auto-x or have you done anything to document any changes. I think it is a real interesting idea, but personally I can sometimes convince myself that something is different even though it isn't just because I want to believe it helped. Not saying that's the case with you just curious. I would love to do this to my Sol if it works cause all I do is auto-x. I was thinking maybe getting an h-brace as well.
I did those homemade on an EG, although I used tubing and Mine were slightly more complex in design, and I also made a set fo front Bumper brace supports, similar to the Korbach units, although not exactly the same for the same car, and it made a difference, a rather noticeable one at that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16SolMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Do you auto-x ... I would love to do this to my Sol </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I do AutoX out here in SoCal and I also do a couple of track days at Willowsprings every year. I do not have any testing devices to give you a definitive "number" on how much more stiff it makes my car, but I can assure you that it is an improvement.
As for a del Sol.... well, that is the twist-o-flex champion of the Honda world. Anything you do to make it stiffer would be a huge improvement.
Scott
Yes, I do AutoX out here in SoCal and I also do a couple of track days at Willowsprings every year. I do not have any testing devices to give you a definitive "number" on how much more stiff it makes my car, but I can assure you that it is an improvement.
As for a del Sol.... well, that is the twist-o-flex champion of the Honda world. Anything you do to make it stiffer would be a huge improvement.
Scott
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DDEVIANT1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did those homemade on an EG, although I used tubing and Mine were slightly more complex in design, and I also made a set fo front Bumper brace supports, similar to the Korbach units, although not exactly the same for the same car, and it made a difference, a rather noticeable one at that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, like I said I do plan on putting an h-brace on but I also know a local fabricator who might be able to hook me up with something like this, this is the first time I've seen it. Also when I was talking numbers I really meant like times from any local autocrosses that you noticed getting better after install.
Thanks, like I said I do plan on putting an h-brace on but I also know a local fabricator who might be able to hook me up with something like this, this is the first time I've seen it. Also when I was talking numbers I really meant like times from any local autocrosses that you noticed getting better after install.
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Triangulation all the way. BTW, tubes would be superior here, simply because they are stiff in every direction as compared to flat bar which is stiff only in one direction.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16SolMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also when I was talking numbers I really meant like times from any local autocrosses that you noticed getting better after install.
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We change the course for every Auto-x so it is hard to compare "numbers." But yes, you can feel a difference.
Scott
Also when I was talking numbers I really meant like times from any local autocrosses that you noticed getting better after install.
</TD></TR></TABLE>We change the course for every Auto-x so it is hard to compare "numbers." But yes, you can feel a difference.
Scott
I've seen several race prepped S2000 cars that had actual metal welded into those areas. The metal was then dimpled with dimple dies. It's very effective without question.
i made some for my first gen crx as well ,never got to try them yet ,but i dont see why they wouldnt work .anyhting to make the body more ridgid

i plan to make some for my hatch when i finally get crackin on it

i plan to make some for my hatch when i finally get crackin on it
Hmm, I might have to make some of these for my crx
. How are you guys mounting it on the upper rail? Are you running the bolts all the way through the rail into a backing plate? I also noticed in everyones pics that most dont go very far down the rail (besides phatboycrxhf
), wouldnt it be more rigid if you triangulated more of the rail? At least to the strut mount.
. How are you guys mounting it on the upper rail? Are you running the bolts all the way through the rail into a backing plate? I also noticed in everyones pics that most dont go very far down the rail (besides phatboycrxhf
), wouldnt it be more rigid if you triangulated more of the rail? At least to the strut mount.
Basicly i i used a steel 1/4" plate 2.25 x 2.5" and i mounted it behind the rail. Now you have to be careful how far you go because there is a crumple zone. If you look about 12" from the end of my brace is the crumple zone. I do notice this. Jacking the car up the doors close now




