hey , i just got a 93 Civic with a B16A . and i have the chance to get a B20z block for $ 300 so i'm going to take the offer and build a CR-Vtec . but i hava few questions .

The dowel pin holes that have to be enlargened . which side of the head are they on ( exhaust or intake ) ?
Aren't there dowel hole on both sides of the VTEC head ? if so what do i do with the opposing side ? do they have to be plugged of just left open ?
do i use the pins from the exsisting B20z head?

And what about the Tee fitting that goes into the block ?


what goes onto the green end of this fitting ?

And lastly , i gotta open up the head chamber so i think i'll opt to have a p&p at the same time and upgrade the valvetrain . But i am wonderin if to Turbo-charge it or run it N/A ....... What do you guys think ?

 

Get a CRV head gasket and put it up to the head. You'll see which ones need to be opened. Dowel pins are solid. Shuffle pins are hollow so a bolt can go through. Just put them were they need to be on a crv. The wire that controls the oil light in the gauge cluster plugs into the green part. It tells you when your engine died because pressure was too low. You dont even need that thing, it tells you when pressure went below 5. Way too late. The hole on the block is tapped for bsp, you will have an NPT thread on your tee. It will go it but only 2-3 threads, thats no good. Get and NPT tap and run it down that hole, make sure to clean the shavings.

b20z pistons will need attention. The valve reliefs are in the wrong place for vted heads, have teh machine shop take care of that too.

Turbo.

 

thanks

are you saying , instead of puttin in the NPT (thread ) tee into the block, i should tap the block for NTP thread ?

and just forget about that greend thing and the wire ?

Oh yeah ......
which head gasket to use ( vtec or non-vtec ) ?
are you running OEM gasket or aftermarket ?
fi aftermarket which brand ?


[Modified by eg6madness, 5:40 PM 7/18/2002]

 

Do NOT run a tee directly off the block. I have seen more than one tee strip the threads out of the block, spit oil all over the firewall, and kill the engine. Connect the tee to the firewall, then run a line from the block to tee. Then run the lines from the firewall to where they need to go.

That green thing is the oil pressure switch. It lights up your oil light when oil pressure drops below 7.4 psi... I think. Someone correct me on that number if I am wrong.

Use the non-vtec B18/B20 head gasket.

 

Dokta ........ so what i have pictured is bad ?

if i do what you said what fitting is to go into the block ?
and what fitting is to go on the firewall ?

Can you explain how to do this setup ?

 

must be at sea level

t..

 

ttt

 

He means put the fitting in the block, run a line to the firewall, securley mount the tee to the firewall and run your oil line from there.

You dont want the oil feed line to be longer than 22". You'll starve the head of oil on startup. I always make the hole on the block 1/8 npt and run the tee all the way down. I have never had a problem with this method ever and the oil line isnt rediculously long.

 

Have you ever tapped the oil from the oil pump directly to the head? With the Z10 Adapters?

 

You can run the tee directly at the block if the tee is a STEEL tee and not a BRASS Tee... the one shown in the pic is a STEEL tee, those do not break.

 

i hate to disaggree with anyone, but it is not a concern that the tee will break, as both brass and steel are harder and stronger thn cast aluminium.

it is the block that breaks and becomes useless.

t..

 

Nope...Brass will break. It happened to me

Do NOT T it off at the block if you gonna use a big heavy Oil sensor for the oil pressure gauge, it will break off eventually because of the tendency of the engine to rattle, vibrate,e tc..

 

sorry, let me rephrase:

as both brass and steel are generally harder and stronger than cast aluminium.

t..

 

Is this the same for a B16 block? The T that came with the drag kit only threaded in a little bit as well

 

the correct thread size for a B16 OP sensor is: 1/8 BSP (28 threads per inch)

i am pretty sure that this is the same for all B-series blocks?

most people try to use a 1/8 NPT thread (27 threads per inch) and it doesn't sit right...

t..

 

All of the oil gallery plugs, on the Honda engines are BSP. When you put the fitting in the head for lsvtec you must also be aware of that.

 

so you guys are saying to use BSP fitting to be placed in the head and a steel BSP fitting for the block ?

and doing this everything should be fine ?


[Modified by eg6madness, 11:21 AM 8/1/2002]

 

1/8 BSP for op sensor, run braided oil line to a 3 or 4 way 1/8 BSP adaptor (for op sensor and/or op gauge) and run this to a fitting on the head that threads to a 3/8 BSP fitting on the head...

least thats what i can work out from all hte LS/VTEC & B20VTEC sites ive seen,

it also makes sense when you look at the situation 1st hand...

t..

 

If you are not running any additional oil pressure/temp gauges, then the Earl's LS/B20-VTEC hardware kits that we sell will give you everything you need to feed the VTEC head with oil.

It's on the front page:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/frame.html

Hope that helps.

 

plus a fresh quart of Mobil 1?!?!

JK!

yep, that C-speed kit is good for a straight up conversion...

t..

 

hehe.. funniest thing happened the other day... As advertised on our site, the LS/B20-VTEC hardware kit "Comes with everything you need for your LS/B20-VTEC conversion".

One guy called me up and said he was interested in the kit. I said ok cool, no problem. He then says, so which head does it come with? haha I was stunned for a sec, and was like "what? are you serious?"

Good thing he was just kidding.. haha Good for a laugh after a long day.

 

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