excuse the typing grammar im doing this very fast and hands are dirty.
i finally got the engine back in the car but it wont turn over.

as far as i can tell all the wires are connected and all the hose are all in.
when i turn the key it will try to turn over but one stay on after i release the key. i can keep the key turned but all that is happening is the starter will just turn the engine but it wont start up..


here are the list of mods other then that its stock and it was working when i tore down the engine.

greddy emanage.
greddy turbo.

these are what was added when i tore it down:
new pistons.
new rods.
new valves.
new springs.
new retainers.
sleeved.
ported and polished.
new spark plugs, gapped.
new spark plug wires.
cam regrinded.

basically everything else was just plugged back in and all the hoses just pluged back in too.

the car lights up and if i leave the key in ignition, no cel comes up.
all the normal red lights stay on.

not sure whats the problem?

civic d16a6
ef 1991.
manual
there is fuel cause i can smell it as i keep trying to start it up.
there is power cause light come on and i just got a new battery for it.
just added all new fluids such as oil and coolant.

Modified by 949 at 11:12 AM 6/25/2008


Modified by 949 at 11:45 AM 6/25/2008

 

sounds like a bad dizzy

 

Is the timing set properly? Thats what id check first.

 

X2

If it is set properly, then move on and check one of the plug wires to see if you have physical spark coming through.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 24TEN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">X2

If it is set properly, then move on and check one of the plug wires to see if you have physical spark coming through.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just checked the spark plug wires.

i took out the plug and stuck it in one of the wires. then had another person turn the ignition key. there is spark.

not sure if that means if the dizzy is good?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bobjohnson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the timing set properly? Thats what id check first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not sure if its set properly.

got a few question about this procedure.
im willing to learn so please explain away.

if the timing is off. will this cause the car to not completely turn over?
the starter does work and i can see it move the cam gear as i try to start it.

how do i check to see if its properly installed correctly at the shop? i will assume they didnt do it properly.
i am new to this procedure but i can learn it with some good diy pics.

 

It wont start if its not in time, it wont spark or move the valves at the proper time. I dont know what you mean by "properly installed correctly at the shop", it sounded like you were doing this yourself? Other than the parts install...

There are instructions in the service manual on how to set the timing.

 

oh to properly clearify.

i took the engine out myself. i removed everything i could other then head, clutch and flywheel.
i dropped off the whole engine at a machine shop.
they installed all the internals and was supposed to measure everything and do all of the necessay stuff.
once he was done i got it back and installed it back in to the car.
apparently they didnt do it correctly and charged me an extra .8 grand on top of the orginal cost. which im pretty pissed at.
and now this. arrggghhh

 

i wish i had a service manual. i might pick one up.

which manual is the best out there?
with great instructions and plenty of pictures. as i do much better with pictures.

 

http://www.hondahookup.com
You can download most factory service manuals here. IMO they are the best. Check to see if you have good compression. Compression tests are simple to perfrom, pick up a tester, remove the spark plug from the cylinder you want to test, screw the tester in, have somebody crank the engine over while you watch the compression tester gauge, once the gauge peaks stop crankin the engine and that is the compression for that cylinder. Repeat for all cylinders. I dont remeber what good #s are for a d series, but it shouldnt be hard to find. If one cylinder is off more than 20% from the others thats no good. As long as your #1 cylinder has good compression, the car should start.

 

would i still need to do this even when the shop just replaced everything brand new?

i also got brand new oil and water pump with all the gaskets new.

checked that site and i dont see

1991 civic


Modified by 949 at 2:02 PM 6/26/2008

 

http://www.hondahookup.com

Honda Civic (1988-90) Service Manual EF (21Mb PDF)

I found it.

 

hey guys thanks for all the input and help.

i called the shop and he told me he personally did the timing. that it was perfect.

as it turns out the timing was off.

i was able to get it corrected with a buddy who came over to help me out.

it finally runs.

thank god.

 

Thats, good it was nothin major. How exactly was the timing off by the way?

 

when you pull an engine out and you want to to it yourself....if you can't do it on you own document !!everything!! it comes out in the long run when i did my swap i had a gang of drunks come luckyly i had my best friend and i pulling the motor and tranny ....the rest were messing with the suspension and C V shafts i know a the ef suspension like the back of my hand so i put them on (i can't help but laugh) put what you take off in the bucket detail......it worked and i didn't even lose a cotter pin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aWeimaraner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats, good it was nothin major. How exactly was the timing off by the way?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the owner of the shop didnt install it correctly. he tried to convince me that it was done right.

 

Oic, its a good thing it didnt start then. You prob would have bent some valves if the t belt was off a tooth or two.

 

just did a first time test run. it runs kinda rough. im assuming its cause of the cam. its been regrinded for more power.

i assume after a tune it should be fine.

the only issue i have is that it seems very hot when i open the hood up after a drive. the temp gauge says its ok tho.

also i smell oil burning. not sure if its cause there is left over residue from the install. but i do see a bit of smoke in the back of the engine when i just pulled over and left the engine running.

 

Do a compression test. The valves may be bent, and could be some damage to the pistons.

Janos

 

really?
and i just got it all in.


i am a newbie at this but im willing to learn.
i found this site.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php
the things i just wanted to double checking is
will the fuse box with the injector i want to pull is the one under the hood?
will it say fuel injector?
or do i need to pull up the manual, which i dont have one.

is there any other fuse i need to pull?
so i dont damage anything else?


and what i am understanding is that i just need to have them be all the same or close to each other by +-20lb but there are no specific numbers that they should hit?


Modified by 949 at 3:06 AM 6/29/2008

 

Pull the ECU and hazard fuses in the underhood fusebox, and disconnect the distributor plugs also.

You should expect about 180 PSI or better for a healthy stock D16a6, but I dont know which pistons you put in, doesnt matter tho as it only affects the compression around that 180 PSI figure. 130 PSI is about the time you want to get it rebuilt.

If you have something that says 180 175, 185, 140, then the 140 one is bad for some reason. But if its like 130, 130, 130, 130, something is [freak]ed up. Make sure the throttle is wide open, and the battery has a good charge on it to spin the engine fast enough to do the test. If it slows down too much, air will escape, and compression readings will be lower than it should be.

Janos

 

the piston are
cp piston. low compression 9's.

recap:
so have the gas completely pressed when i turn the key.

unplug 2 fuses
ecu and hazard.

unplug the 2 plugs that come from the wire harnesses to the distributor.

take out all 4 spark plugs and spark plug wires.
leave them all out while doing each individual compressino test?

the compression should be pretty constant.
just make sure it doesnt hit too low like 130.
i sure hope its not too low as the engine was just rebuilt by a local shop.

turn the ignition key about how many times? or is it just once?
do i reset the gauge each time i redo the same cylinder?

i also have bad idle.
sympton.
at cold start, the engine will warm up fine 800rpm.
once i drive the car after the initial warm up, it will drive fine.
when i stop at a light the idle will drop and stall out. then ill need to restart.
it may stay on or stall again.
if it stays on its fine. about 500-800 rpm

after it warms up with a good 15 mins of driving, the idle will go up and down many many times. from almost stalling but it wont stall anymore at this point 300 rpm and go up to about 900rpm

after about 30 mins of driving the idle will
fluctuate at 600rpm to about 1k rpm. it will stay pretty high through out the rest of the time.

i have been looking around i dont see any issue with hoses.
the only thing right now i dont have is the trottle body gasket as i did not get a chance to order it before. i have ordered today but need to wait till it gets in.
i hope it fixes it.
but does anyone know if not having a throttle body gasket can cause bad idle.

i have searched around and the only other thing that can cause this is a bad eavc.
i think this part is located behind the intake manifold. its like a cylinder with a couple of plugs hooked to it. i read it controls the idle. if its bad it might cause this symptom. but when its bad its supposed to throw a cell tho. and so far no cel.





Modified by 949 at 3:48 AM 6/29/2008

 

As for the compression test, you dont need to floor it to get a reading. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder you wish to test, screw in the gauge, unplug the rest of the plug wires, have someone watch the gauge while you crank the engine over keep the key turned until the person maning the gauge signals that the reading from the gauge maxed out. Also remove those fuses. Definately get the throttle body gasket, a vacum leak could cause the erratic idle. I think you are reffering to the IACV. you can check this by suppling power to it with a 6v battery and if it makes a noticeable clicking noise its good. You can also clean it out
http://www.team-integra.net/se...=1174
This will show you how to do it.

 

nice thanks.

yeah! thats the part i was talking about iacv. i did download the manual book from a search i did.
the honda manual book calls that part the EACV.
but that is the part in the picture from the link you posted. ill clean it out.
the manual book states that if i use my mulitmeter and switch it too ohm, the omega symbol, and see if there are a reading of 8-15omega then its good.
i tested it and got 11.5.
so i guess its still good.
this idle issue is really bugging me. i really hope its the gasket.


Modified by 949 at 10:21 PM 6/29/2008

 

Yep ur IAC or EAC watever lol should be good. Hmm air bubbles in you coolant could also cause an erratic idle. While you waiting for the throttle body gasket you might want to bleed the coolant. The bleeder screw is located on the head near the thermostat, or directly on the thermostat, I cant remember. There should be a write up in your manual about it.