I don't post in the All-Motor section very often so go easy on me . I am in the process of collecting parts for my motor build. Currently it's a bone stock B18C5 with all the bolt-ons. My car will go under the knife during winter when it's off the road. It is a financial impossibility for me to do it all at once so I figured I'd chip away at my parts list over the next 6 months and only be on the hook for the labour and machining come Xmas.

The foundation of my build will be my block getting 84mm Benson sleeves. The stock crank will also be machined and balance by Benson and Portflow will take care of the PnP job on the head.

Here are the parts I'll be collecting so far:
Skunk2 Pro2+ cams
Skunk2 Pro cam gears
Skunk2 Pro hi-comp valves
Skunk2 Pro valvesprings
Skunk2 Ti retainers
CP 84mm 12.5:1 c/r pistons
Carrillo Pro-A rods
ARP main and head studs
OEM ITR oil and water pump

Here are the questions:

1. SuperTech bronze valve guides - required? any added safety or performance?
2. What timing belt should I run?
3. What head gasket? Cometic?
4. What injector size? I currently run RC 310's.
5. I currently have an UR crank pulley. Should I keep it, upgrade to an ATi or go back to stock?
6. Is there anything else that I can stock pile until I'm ready for the build?

Just looking for some feedback to ensure that I am on the right track and my selection of parts will work well with each other. The disclaimer under my user name should say it all. I like driving better than wrenching so I'll apoligize for my n00bness now. Any questions/feedback/comments/suggestions are appreciated.

Thanx all
-WR

 

My few words would be as follows:

(1)In regards to new valve guides, I think it's a good idea to replace them when doing a fresh build.
(2)Stock Honda belts are fine IMO.
(3)I run a Cometic, some people have issues with them, I don't .
(4) RC engineering website has good info to read up on.
(5)In regards to the lightweight UR pulley setup, I would suggest the garbage can. ATI is a nice piece, stock works great also!
(6) Lots of money, it's amazing the things that come up.

BTW, i'd ditch the Ti retainers. Crower makes some nice steel ones that will last longer.

 

sounds like its going to be a nice setup..im doing something similar just with buddy club cams instead...dont forget to tune it with Hondata

 

Thank you FST GSR 1 . I looked at the Supertech aluminum retainers but decided that they would be too soft for a daily driver, I'll look into the Crower pieces. I'll most likely use the stock crank pulley also.

 

1. Required? no. New valve guides are a good thing to do when rebuilding though.
2. Stock is fine. If you hard park - Toda for red bays and Greddy for blue ones.
3. Stock is fine. I prefer SCE over cometic but either one would also be fine.
4. 310's will probably be fine. You'll know once you tune it.
5. Stock is fine. ATI . UR.. not so much.
6. $$$$$$$$
Bonus. People always overlook tuning. Research how to start up/break in this motor and get it tuned immediately. I hate seeing people spend a ton of money on a motor only to blow it up the day they fire it up or make a thread a few weeks later like "why doesn't my car make good power?" or "why does it smoke?"

 

Looks like a nice solid build but you didn't mention what you'd be using for tuning.

1. I'd go with the guides but I'd skip the hi comp valves. You don't really need the boost as you're already using 12.5:1 pistons and they just add weight. Stock valves are what I'd use.
2. Stick with a stock timing belt, they have proven themselves to be reliable time and time again.
3. Again, stock head gasket or see what Benson recommends you run.
4. 310's will probably be ok, you could always add an adjustable fpr if you need to increase the output of the injectors a little. Your engine management will tell you what you need to do at that time.
5. New stock or Ati for sure would be fine.
6. money for tuning, possibly a wideband...etc.

 

Great responses guys . Great to hear that the stock timing belt will work fine. Same with the stock crank pulley. So the high comp valves are actually used to "up" the c/r? I figured they were needed due to the 12.5:1 pistons I will be using. I'll ask my builder about that and thanks for the heads up. Stock head gasket with an 84mm bore? I thought they needed to be matched up according to size.

As for tuning I will be using the Hondata s300. I currently run the s200 and my tuner has a lot of experience with Hondata. I will be dealing directly with Laskey Racing regarding the Benson work so I will ask about the break-in procedure and the h/g.

Great help y'all. Thanx.

 

If you're dealing with Laskey, they'll be able to answer your questions better than all of us put together

I would use the same retainers as the valvetrain you intend to use (same brand/matching). Compression won't affect the valves, stock will handle what you're doing but again, ask Laskey and they will help you for sure

 

Sorry to crash the thread Chris...

But does nobody like fluidampr when it comes to an aftermarket pulley?

 

spending some $$$

- what chassis? and purpose?
- you said you have bolt ons? they are the easy part, but will kill alot of performance if not upgraded with the motor build (Consider the cost of tuning twice or more) IM, TB intake, header, blah blah blah.. Simple stuff but how many threads on here say, "180whp thought a crappy 2" exhaust..."
- Injector size will depend on fuel type, Ill assume pump gas so 310's are fine.
- I have never been a fan of high comp. valves. Seems like a cheap way to gain compression and add weight to valvetrain. since you are doing pistons/ headwork/machine work, there are other ways go gain compression.

 

Hey Pat . I thought ATi and Fluidampr = same shizz?

kabaroo: DC2R chassis and intended for daily driving in the spring and summer months with trips to some local road courses about 5-10 times per year. Bolt-ons include a Mugen intake w/ Samco piping, taper-bored TB, Import Builders IM, Outlaw spacer kit(like Hondata gasket), Toda header(replacing with SMSP), fpr, rail, endyn catch can set-up, etc, etc.

And another vote to ditch the hi comp valves.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry to crash the thread Chris...

But does nobody like fluidampr when it comes to an aftermarket pulley?

</TD></TR></TABLE>Personally, I have seen 3 come apart, but they were all replaced with ATI's and the SSO car still makes 7.40 passes @199 with it for 2 years now! Just like everything else it's all preference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Toda header(replacing with SMSP)</TD></TR></TABLE>

sell me your Toda header, Chris!! hahaha, sounds like it's going to be a nice build. let me know how your build goes dood. i'll be putting in my Toda cams/valvetrain soon. i'm just assembling the list for OEM gaskets and stuff that i'll replace while the head is out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mashimaro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sell me your Toda header</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, it will be for sale come wintertime

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well, it will be for sale come wintertime </TD></TR></TABLE>

nice! i can sell my Spoon header when the time comes then

let me know if you need help with OEM parts. I'm a parts advisor at Burrard Acura

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mashimaro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let me know if you need help with OEM parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice. I'll most likely hit you up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nice. I'll most likely hit you up </TD></TR></TABLE>

cost plus 10% FTW buddy. just call rob and the guys at G5 and let them know i can hook you up when you need the stuff. (they have an account with us)

 

you might want to contact the person in your sig, eh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might want to contact the person in your sig, eh? </TD></TR></TABLE>

why do I feel like I just got busted with my hand in the cookie jar?

&lt;------runs to hide wallet from Marc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry to crash the thread Chris...

But does nobody like fluidampr when it comes to an aftermarket pulley?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe ERL or someone of that nature tested fluidamper and ATI. The ATI was found to be much more effective.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Here are the questions:

1. SuperTech bronze valve guides - required? any added safety or performance?
2. What timing belt should I run?
3. What head gasket? Cometic?
4. What injector size? I currently run RC 310's.
5. I currently have an UR crank pulley. Should I keep it, upgrade to an ATi or go back to stock?
6. Is there anything else that I can stock pile until I'm ready for the build?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

my first question is WHAT ARE YOU GONNA USE FOR ENGINE MANAGEMENT? and are you gonna convert to OBD1?

1) not sure if there is any advantage, Ive always used stock guides
2) Im still using stock on my 500whp turbo car. as long as its tensioned correctly I dont see a problem.
3) Golden Eagle overbored OEM gasket (currently using one on my turbo car also)
4) as mentioned above check RC's website to calculate it. id go with 450s and call it a day as long as your tuner knows what hes doing and the program is reliable.
5) if you arent using any other belts just pick up an CTR N1. OEM spec and dampened. otherwise stock ITR works for me.
6) ECU or EMS, the basics like thermostat, hoses, belts, gasket kits, plugs/wires/cap/rotor, fuel filter, fuel rail, in tank walbro, regulator, gauges, etc. Find some build threads and scour them for ideas of things you might need for your setup.

 

you can run oem timing belt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


4) as mentioned above check RC's website to calculate it. id go with 450s and call it a day as long as your tuner knows what hes doing and the program is reliable.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No reason for 450CC injectors on his setup. The smaller injector, generally the better the spray pattern. Not to mention your idle will be much better with a smaller injector then a bigger one.

I'd personally use RDX injectors (410CC), the reliability of OEM along with a superb spray pattern. It arguably atomizes fuel better then similar sized aftermarket injectors. Meaning more power. With reports of them being equal to 550cc due to their atomization. Not to mention their relatively cheap price.

As for headgasket and timing belt, I'd stick to OEM. These are probably the only two things you should use OEM no matter what your setup is, assuming you don't want to change the compression via the headgasket that is.

 

sup guise Hondata s300 will be my engine management of choice. It's what my tuner knows best. As for injectors, I'll probably stick with the 310's I have now and see how far I get before they max out. If they do max out, then the 370's were recommended by someone with almost the exact same build. The same person recommended Golden Eagle for the h/g.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No reason for 450CC injectors on his setup. The smaller injector, generally the better the spray pattern. Not to mention your idle will be much better with a smaller injector then a bigger one.

I'd personally use RDX injectors (410CC), the reliability of OEM along with a superb spray pattern. It arguably atomizes fuel better then similar sized aftermarket injectors. Meaning more power. With reports of them being equal to 550cc due to their atomization. Not to mention their relatively cheap price.

As for headgasket and timing belt, I'd stick to OEM. These are probably the only two things you should use OEM no matter what your setup is, assuming you don't want to change the compression via the headgasket that is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree and disagree. RDX is a great suggestion and I totally forgot about them. i think the prices have come up on them though once people started ordering them. But a 450cc will idle just fine with a competent tuner and good EMS. my 1000cc idle nearly perfectly with much lower compression than stock.

You can also remove the middle layer of the OEM gasket for a slight bump in compression as well. Ive done this several times on stock and mild all motor builds and never had a problem as long as the head/block is flat and torqued correctly. So regardless I would stick with OEM gasket (or modified OEM from GE).