wat would be a better swap for my eg a j spec b16 or a b20 wit a gsr tranny..which one would be faster..i wouldbe getting either one for around the same price so not sure which one would be better?? thanks guys

 

lol well before everyone else talks more **** than an african horse-fly ill give ya my 2 cents...!!

B16 - decent HP, garbage TQ...
B20 - decent TQ, garbage HP...

Single cam boosted, nice HP nice TQ and even get to go VROOOOOM, PSHHHHHH..!!! lol...

 

LOL^^

OP there are sooooooooooooooooooo many threads like this.

And someone is gonna sell you a B20 for aound the same price as a B16? Something isn't right there. B20's are DIRT cheap.

 

B16 cause it has vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H.A.R.T B18C1EG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B16 cause it has vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>just mate the 2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mcvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL^^

OP there are sooooooooooooooooooo many threads like this.

And someone is gonna sell you a B20 for aound the same price as a B16? Something isn't right there. B20's are DIRT cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It was comedy hour what can I say lol...

And yeah a B16 for same price as B20..??????

Is it an OBD-0 B16 with 947K miles and a continuum transfunctioner...

 

well around here theres a jap shop were they sale b20 for 750 wit out a tranny..and my boy has a b16 in his hatch and just got a gsr and is saleing me his b16 with ctr cams for 700 wit out the tranny..so im not really sure wat to get

 

and no its a ob1

 

password JDM was selling B20 long blocks for $499. WIth transmissions I believe.

 

but wit shiping and handling doesnt it come out to around the same price??

 

i just checked password jdm and there saling them for 599. and wit out tranny so its almost the same thing as buying it around my house at a jap shop

 

Dude u should hit up JDM Addictions in Ocala... They were in Homosassa, that's where I got my JDM D15B for $450 and at the time the dude Eric was sellin LS longblocks for $499... At least with an LS you wont have such a worry with crackin a sleeve if u decide to throw a lil boost on there... And it's local so no shipping fee's... They might even have B20's if thats what ur into...

 

dependes what b20 you get. high compression (b20z2) with knock sensor or b20b (the low compression one ) without knock sensor. i drive a full interior 94 ls integra with a usdm b20z2 and gsr tranny. i walk the **** out of my boys SI all day. its not even close.

......JDM 1996-1998 specs..... B20B (LOW COMPRESSION).......

Power: 146 hp (109 kW)) @ 5400 rpm
Torque: 131 ft·lbf (178 N·m) @ 4300 rpm
Compression: 8.8:1
_____________________________________

......JDM 1999 - 2000 specs.....B20B (HIGH COMPRESSION)........

Power: 146 hp (109 kW)) @ 5400 rpm
Torque: 133 ft·lbf (180 N·m) @ 4300 rpm
Compression: 9.6:1

____________________________________


......USDM 1999-2001......B20Z2 (HIGHER COMPRESSION) .......

Power: 146 hp (109 kW) @ 6400 rpm
Torque: 133 ft·lbf (180 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
Compression: 9.6:1

___________________________________


......USDM 99-00 SI........B16A2

Power: 160 hp (118 kW) @ 7600 rpm &
torque: 111 ft·lbf (151 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
Compression: 10.4:1

___________________________________


now take a look at the high compression b20. it has 14 hp less than the b16 but a **** load of torque. lets not forget the b20z2 is super under rated out the factory. honda never had performence in mind for the b20. if you ever seen the factory header you would see what im talking about. with a better fuel/ ignition map in your ecu that is meant for power like the b16 plus even a stock gsr header, im sure that the b20z is closer to 150 -155 hp at least. i wish i had a dyno graph to prove this but since i dont well just use common sense. .

also lets look at when peak torque kicks in. on the b20 its happens around 4300-4500. now look at the b16. it happens at 7000 rpm. thats 1,200 rpm before you red line. that means you have to rev to **** out of it to take advantage of its 111 lbs of no torque. the b20 even without the vtec conversion feels strong early in the rpm and it very, very noticable. instant power comes fast and it feels like a sports car. a b16 feels like my old d16z6 until high in the rpm. this is not going to be any fun for a daily driver unless you boost but thats another topic.

my vote is get the b20 and enjoy. if you get the b16. you will still be just a little faster than a d16. go to the all motor forum. there are guys hitting mid 12's in b20 eg hatches using high compression pistons, cams and ported heads. see how many b16's are doing this. not alot.

 

all good input here but pretty much what it boils down to is, as we all know any.. ANY power plant built these days and pushed to its limits means money. its not going to last forever, are you planning to drag this car or just a daily..?? i dont know about other folks but me personaly dont like anything that didnt come with out vtec and then adding it. i've just really never seen a clean ls-v or b20-v being a healthy setup. it might be the people building it, but never have i seen a non- problem setup. of course ls-v or b20-v makes alot more power but i think they wouldnt last as long as a b16 would. correct me if im wrong guys, but if you got the cash and you're looking to rebuild every couple of years why not, go with the b20 and slap a vtec head on there, other wise basic bolts with a b16 and just keep it at that..

 

Vtec FTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i've just really never seen a clean ls-v or b20-v being a healthy setup. it might be the people building it, but never have i seen a non- problem setup. of course ls-v or b20-v makes alot more power but i think they wouldnt last as long as a b16 would. correct me if im wrong guys, but if you got the cash and you're looking to rebuild every couple of years why not, go with the b20 and slap a vtec head on there, other wise basic bolts with a b16 and just keep it at that.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea am just guessing but i see that you dont spend much time in the all motor forum. any motor is only as good as the person who builds them. a well put together lsv/b20v will last just as long as any motor. i wasnt even talking about b20vtec. non vtec b20z owns a b16 in their stock forms on the same chassy all day. b16 even with vtec is no match for almost a half liter more displacement. 2.0&gt;1.6 why would you pick a motor(b16) with the same displacement of a d16 sohc over a b20.

basic bolt ons on a b16 is weak. b20 with basic bolt ons makes me happy in my pants every time i give it gas.

 

its just the peeps that i'vs talked to or have seen, wether it be a b20-v or ls-v .... havent seen any close buddies have a good healthy setup, meaning just slapping on a head. so i've always managed to stay away from the frankies.... guess thats just a personal experience. im just saying if i had to chose between going with a stock b20 or stock b16 both would be good, but if i had to pick between building ( meaning heavy modded ) b16 or b20-v i would probably have to go with the b16. but again thats my preference.

 

Unless you're boosting, they're both slow. I agree with Ivan though. B20 with GSR Tranny is much better than B16. You can still muster Integra gas milage too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SHO-NUFF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless you're boosting, they're both slow. I agree with Ivan though. B20 with GSR Tranny is much better than B16. You can still muster Integra gas milage too.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
boost in a b20 is kind of hit or miss with stock sleeves. ive been wanting to put a very small turbo on mine so it spools fast. full boost at like 2000 rpm on a b20 with like 200 lbs of tq would feel nuts. jdmcivicturbo. if you were going to mod a motor, why the b16. are you talking about building as in pistons cams sleeves, ...... if you are then why not build a b20. i see b20 making 250 hp and 160 tq all motor. you will never in your life see a b16 making anywhere near that all motor. larry of endyne has made even higher numbers than the one i mentioned. look at this article he wrote on building a 2.0 litter motor. enjoy
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone/

 

B20/VTEC with a b16 or gsr tranny, just slap on a vtec head on that b20, you'll be rockin

 

oh yea, b20 are cheaper

 

im talking about highly modded meaning sleeve work, rods pistons.. so on.. and again, just a personal preferrance.... thats why i mentioned is this goin to be a drag or daily.... just from what i have seen, a b16 vs a stock b20 slapped on head and nothing else done to it would not take the kind of abuse a b16 would... now if hes draggin then go with the b20, other wise if hes just looking for a little more power and LONG reliability, i would go with the b16.... correct me if im wrong, but im saying a stock b16 would out last a stock b20-v.... i never said anything about the power each would be making.... im talking about life of the setup.... but if he were to go b16 or just b20, like i mentioned about both would be good candidates.... hahaha and again personal preferrance...

 

and i rather have horse power over torque all day ( note i didnt say i rather have the b16 just in general )....again its up to who loves to do what with what. and this is me.. top end..


Modified by jdmcivicturbo at 2:11 PM 6/25/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i had to pick between building ( meaning heavy modded ) b16 or b20-v i would probably have to go with the b16. but again thats my preference.
im talking about highly modded meaning sleeve work, rods pistons.. so on.. and again, just a personal preferrance.... thats why i mentioned is this goin to be a drag or daily.... just from what i have seen, a b16 vs a stock b20 slapped on head and nothing else done to it would not take the kind of abuse a b16 would... now if hes draggin then go with the b20, other wise if hes just looking for a little more power and LONG reliability, i would go with the b16.... correct me if im wrong, but im saying a stock b16 would out last a stock b20-v.... i never said anything about the power each would be making.... im talking about life of the setup.... but if he were to go b16 or just b20, like i mentioned about both would be good candidates.... hahaha and again personal preferrance... </TD></TR></TABLE>

you keep saying that a stock b16 would outlast a stock b20vtec. im talking about a stock b20 nonvtec. the link i provided was showing what can be had by "building" or "modding" a b20. besides you need to rev the pis out of the b16 in order to feel fast. you wont even see that 160 hp 111 tq until you've reved your motor to 7000. how will this effect your motor in the long run?

beating the **** out of a motor doesnt make it last longer than a motor that you dont have to rev as high. i dont need to take my underrated 146 hp 133 tq over 6400 to feel fast. like i said, by adding even a stock ls header and better fuel and ignition map as well as a better intake manifold, i dont think that the hp difference would be as big as you think.(look here for a pic of the weak b20 header)... http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/b20/b20tech.html

and since its a nonvtec b20 that means its not a frank. just as reliable and more powerful than a b16. sorry jdmcivicturbo but your advice is based only on what you like. you said it yourself. he is asking what motor to buy based on facts and not your preferrance.


Modified by ivan93egreppin210 at 7:53 PM 6/25/2008

 

yeah and i said if i had to chose from going with the b16 or just the b20 both would be great but if i was to chose from goin with a b20v or b16, DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU'RE PLANNING ON DOING WITH THE CAR, LIFE OR DRAG WISE ... life wise i would rather go with the b16 rather a stock b20v....