Upon purchasing the car I noticed an oil leak coming from the oil cooler. Supposely only the Ex trim was equipped with the oil coolers. Anyhow, I replaced the seal (pic. 33) however it continues to leak from that area. I used the correct torque specs and a new gasket from Honda. Anyone else have problems with the replacement of this seal? Should have applied some Hondabond on the seal before the install? TIA

 

Did you ever figure out what it was? My 1992 EX has an annoying leak as well, and I want to fix it this weekend. The Oil Pressure Sending Unit is good - I checked for evidence of an oil leak tonight, but the sending unit isn't what is leaking. Is there any way to tell if it's the $330 oil cooler adapter or if it's the $3 gasket? I'll try to get a picture of the oil cooler adapter from the top and post back if that will be helpful.

I'm guessing it would be a bad idea to just plug the lines and remove the oil cooler adapter all together on my F22A6. I'm not really interested in sinking $350 into this car just to fix 1 of a few of it's oil leaks.

Thanks for your help! This site is so helpful and I'm so thankful you're all here.

 

In your case, I'd suggest looking just above the oil filter / oil cooler adapter housing and check the Oil Pressure switch.
When it leaks, it mimicks an oil filter leak.

The adapter seal (o-Ring) should be assembled dry

P

 

I did check the oil pressure switch / sending unit above the oil filter, and there is absolutely no residue or evidence of oil around it. The block is greasy where the oil cooler adapter attaches, but the adapter itself appears to be clean, except on the very bottom. The oil is running down the block from the oil cooler...but nothing is leaking from the sending unit.

I'll probably just buy the $3 gasket for the oil cooler adapter and give it a shot. if that doesn't work, I'll be hunting in the junkyard.

PS - by assembling dry, do you mean not using any oil when assembling the oil cooler & seal to the block?

Thanks again for your help.

 

Unlike the oil filter which spins on (lubricate the seal), the Cooler adapter bolts on (seal dry). you don't want it moving around while you're tightening things.

 

Thanks so much for your help with this. Hopefully I can get this done this weekend!

 

Belated Update: Turned out the leak wasn't caused by the oil cooler after all. The oil pressure sending unit (which is located directly above the oil cooler) was faulty thus creating the oil leak. I replaced the opsu from a used d-series motor (direct fit) and applied honda bond to the threads and the oil leak is gone.

 

Glad it worked out for you; and Thanks for the "That fixed it" report.

P

 

My mother has a 92 accord ex auto and I think her oil cooler is leaking water and oil into each other.

Is it known for these oil cooler units to develope internal leaks?

Her car just blew another head gasket and I need to get the the bottom of the issue before I replace another head gasket.

 

Why do you think its comming from the oil cooler? If you keep blowing head gaskets i would check the block and head for flatness..

 

As much as I'd like to get into it with you about your question the fact remains my question has not been answered and sorry but I don't like it when my questions get answered w/questions. You are questioning that I don't know how to have a shop check for flatness and pressure before reassembly of parts or that I'm not observing something strange from the Oil Cooler correct? If you don't want to be or can't be part of the solution then you can only be part of the problem.

 

well we need to have all the facts about what is happening.. I only ask questions to fully understand what and how you have done things. Most peoples blown head gaskets come from the block not being flat and the head aswell. If you think its the oil cooler just take it off but I have never seen a oil cooler fail in that way. That is why I asked why you think its that. If you feel that is your problem you can always loop the water lines and get a oil filter screw on part (non oil cooler)and go that way...

 

Yeah I guess I could bypass the cooler. Did not think of that one. So how will it affect the normal operation of the T-stat and so on.

So I had the head pressure tested and surfaced .005 and the block seemed to be flat. I never pulled the block to have the machine shop check it for cracks or flatness. After reassembly the engine was doing just fine for about 4-5 months w/o overheating or using any coolant.

I changed the EGR Valve to get the car to pass smog and cleaned out the EGR Ports on the Manifuld, installed a new T-Stat and upper rad hose, new oil sending unit, temp sending unit, both fan switches and the ECU temp sensor next to the dash temp sending unit. Changed the OIL Seals to all the Valve Guids and cleaned out the Intake plenum and 4 butterfly Valves. Checked the EGR Solenoid Valve & the other UFO looking thing that connects line #24 to the Solenoid valve. Cleaned the Spark Plugs/Cap & Rotor, Ran Seafoam in the Engine oil and change the oil and filter right after doing the Seafoam in the oil treatment.

The one thing I'm kind of concerned about is the Oil and Filter I used after the Seafoam treatment and the weight of oil I used. I used a Fram Extra Guard filter and Castrol GTX 10-40w Oil I got at AutoZone for $22.00. However I do know that the coolant in the radiator was already starting to get low before I did the Oil change telling me there was already an existing problem before putting the heavy oil in. My thinking was the engine has just over 200k so the heavier 10-40w would be ok. I guess not.

The car won't even start this time around because of excessive coolant in the #3 Cylinder and possibly other cylinder/s IDK.

I was not trying to be rude I was just in a funky mood sorry if I came off as a *****.

 

It wouldnt effect t stat operation, or shouldnt have a large impact on it. The Tstat gets hot water from the head to help it open sooner. Oil temps might raise some but with 10-40 (10w30 is what I run) it shouldnt be that big of a problem.. Fram is an ok filter I have used them on my daily drivers and never had a problem. On my fast cars tho I only use Wix filters, and higher end oil. I dont like moble 1 as there metel on metel test failed before GTX did. To be honest with you it might be time to pull the block and have it checked by a machine shop.

 

Thank you. I had a lot of water in the oil and in the Cylinders. Once I drained the oil and coolant, Pulled the plugs, shot some Carb Cleaner down in the cylinders cranked it a few strokes to clean the cylinders out, cleaned the plugs and put it all back together it fired right up. I was thinking of trying some StealSeal but that stuff is not cheap and if I can't keep the car running then the leak is prolly to big for the StealSeal to ever work.

Thanks for the tip on bypassingh the Oil Cooler. I think I'll pull it and do a vacuum/pressure test on the coolers in/out lines to see if it looses any vac/psi. I guess that's just about the only way to really tell if it's a problem or not. If the oil cooler is leaking then I can always grab a new one on a block at the junk yard. Additionally I figure since the head gasket blew 3 times now, it's about time for a new block any way. Only problem is the F22A6 Engine is not a dime a dozen like the F22A1-4 blocks.

 

I have a 93 honda accord EX SS,
and it also had oil running out at filter, or I thought , so new O,ring, nope, looked up more it wasn't the oil presser censor up above that either ,
But I just put a new head and it has sit up a while when I got it, but I can crank it it runs like new, but right over the oil sender between head gasket and block oil pours out from right at the oil censor, so is it the new head or the gasket, ????? Help!!!