Ok...

Searched thouroughly already.

Does anyone have a method, for removing the crank bolt short of owning an impact gun?

 

Also, I have a buddy who does turbo Mitsubishis.

He has a similar problem when doing timing belts w/o an impact and suggested this:

1.1/2 Ratchet/Breaker on the crank bolt.

2.Make sure the engine is at TDC and that the head marks line up to make sure the valves are closed.

3.Jam the breaker up against the frame rail or lower control arm.

4. *Briefly* Bump the starter over to try and break the bolt loose.

Any ideas?

 

there is one method that works.

have to take the plate of the bottom plate, the one that is between the tranny and block. jam(with out breaking or hurting) something into your fly wheel(like a big screw driver). then get a half inch breaker bar. have the corresponding socket for the bolt that is holding the crank bolt in. then get a hollow pipe, about 3ft long. slide the pipe over the breaker bar and un screw the bolt. just be careful when jamming in the screw driver.

the other way, is to get a chain strap that was meant to wrap around the pulley. it looks like a oil filter strap remover, but the handle is metal and the strap in stead of being rubber is a chain. with that all you gotta do is strap it, and place it to were it won't move(wedge it against the lower control arm). and use the pipe like said above.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hookeduphatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I have a buddy who does turbo Mitsubishis.

He has a similar problem when doing timing belts w/o an impact and suggested this:

1.1/2 Ratchet/Breaker on the crank bolt.

2.Make sure the engine is at TDC and that the head marks line up to make sure the valves are closed.

3.Jam the breaker up against the frame rail or lower control arm.

4. *Briefly* Bump the starter over to try and break the bolt loose.

Any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hookeduphatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I have a buddy who does turbo Mitsubishis.

He has a similar problem when doing timing belts w/o an impact and suggested this:

1.1/2 Ratchet/Breaker on the crank bolt.

2.Make sure the engine is at TDC and that the head marks line up to make sure the valves are closed.

3.Jam the breaker up against the frame rail or lower control arm.

4. *Briefly* Bump the starter over to try and break the bolt loose.

Any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's been done safley before. Soak the bolt in penetrating fluid then try the next day.

 

get a moroso crank pulley holder. then use a 6' pipe on a 1/2" drive. worked for me

 

I've heard of people putting a long breaker on it, resting the breaker on the ground, and then lowering the jack so the weight of the car pushes it up.

I've personally never tried one without air, and I imagine it would suck. The last one I did wouldn't come off with a 250ft/lb 3/8" drive - it took the 650ft/lb 1/2" Ingersoll... to give you an idea of how tight it's on there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hookeduphatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok...

Searched thouroughly already.

Does anyone have a method, for removing the crank bolt short of owning an impact gun?</TD></TR></TABLE>


No you didn't.... there are several threads on this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90DALS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a moroso crank pulley holder. then use a 6' pipe on a 1/2" drive. worked for me </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's what it's called, knew it was out there just forgot who made it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hookeduphatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok...

Searched thouroughly already.

Does anyone have a method, for removing the crank bolt short of owning an impact gun?</TD></TR></TABLE>


No you didn't.... there are 5 pages of threads on this!!!

Make sure you click on archived threads.

Basically... all you need is an air gun.....
pump up the PSI on your tank ALL THE WAY(120-150psi)...make sure the regulator is open ALL THE WAY...

then using an 6-point IMPACT SOCKET (not a chrome socket) use quick short repartive blasts on the air gun.

I have NEVER had this fail.

 

That bolt is one of the biggest pains...broke 2 breaker bars on it...but one method that worked for me was to set the car on the ground put it in 1st gear and jam the break peddle down as best you can with a pole or brake peddle compressor (if you have one) and get a good position under the car or if you have room like i did SOHC from the top...then just pretty much try to muscle it off with a STRONG breaker bar possibly aided by a Cheater bar as well lol...but as i said the bar may break so be careful and protect you hands...ya dont wanna bust you knuckle on the frame or engine lol Good Luck

 

also i dont know if you know but if you wanna go the pulley holder way autozone has a variety of em as well as rents them out

 

I use this:


Moroso Honda Crank Pulley Wrench ~ locks into the pulley recess
+
6ft long steel fence post/pipe.

The wrench spins down so the base of the shaft is on the ground and then I pry the bolt loose with the pipe.
Its worked on every single non-d15b Honda.

 

yep, one of the bigger PITA

 

3/4 impact driver, worked for me, crank bolt came right out with a couple of zip zip's

 

engine cranks in reverse direction. so the starter bump method does not work.

Now its on F*n tighter. OBTW i did search and said WITHOUT a impact GUNNN!!!!

Thanks for the replys from the informative people.

 

i have done it by hand where i put a break bar on the wheel studs a jack so the wheel doesnt move.

i also impacted it off before.

and i have also use teh starter method and no problems what so ever. i always put on a socket with a wrench and then slip a pipe over the wrench that is long enough to hit the ground and then bump the starter to break loose the bolt...works every time!

here is a copy and paste from someone else that does it

Find a socket to fit the crank bolt (19MM) and place it on a long-handled breaker bar. Place the socket on the bolt as if it were going to be loosened. Next, wedge the bar against the top of the left-hand frame rail. Make sure the handle will not come in contact with the radiator! Disconnect and ground the ignition coil wire from the distributor, as you do not want the engine to start with the breaker bar attached to the crank bolt! Usually, one short hit of the ignition key is enough to break the bolt loose. At this point, the bolt can be loosened by hand. The crank pulley should slide right off of the snout of the crankshaft but a puller may have to be used in some circumstances."

the starter techinique has the added benefit of not subjecting the tranny to the high torques of breaking the bolt loose, and the starter was designed for exactly this function:

 

take out the starter and place a falt head driver or pry bar against the flywheel. Then using a breaker bar+looooooong pipe, turn the crank pully. Make sure your pry bar doesn't slip.

 

here isa video

http://s106.photobucket.com/al...2.flv

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Lobster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here isa video

http://s106.photobucket.com/al...2.flv</TD></TR></TABLE>


This is what my friend was talking about but here is the issue.

-That engine in the video spins clockwise, where the b16 spins Counter-clockwise. So because of that, the engine is *Tightening the crank bolt.

Got a video of a b16 undergoing this method?

As I can't make out in the video what kind of car they are working on.

 

Just a little info for all you in order for the starter bump start method to work the crankshaft must turn clockwise, With clockwise rotation and a breaker bar stoping the bolt it will create counter clockwise rotation on the bolt.
The crank rotation on a 1990 acura integra is counter clockwise so the stater bump method will not work, A few hints change out the water pump while you have the timing belt off also the belt tensener

 

DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BAD VIDEO. YOU WILL SNAP YOU CRANK PULLEY BOLT.

^all caps cause it needs to be stressed

 

All those methods suck, because the socket always will slip off the crank bolt. Now this is the easiest way to do it and WILL WORK. take a BIG flat head screw driver and remove the starter then have someone hold it in the between the teeth of the flywheel. Then proceed to the crank pulley and and jack up the car to the desired height but use a jack first and don't use a jack stand yet, then take a very long extension and set it with the socket on the crank pulley then take a jack stand and rest the end of the extension on the jack stand groove then take a very long breaker bar and proceed. also you may raise and lower the car to your desired height to level with the jack stand. This will allow you to remove the crank pulley bolt easily without the socket slipping off and will give it leverage.

 

Exactly how I did mine and it worked perfectly. I was really surprised at how easy it was, considering all I had read about how difficult it is to get that bolt off.

 

Soak it with WD-40 for a day, keep trying the impact gun, it may even take 10 tries but it will come off, if you have a decent gun.