I am planning on doing a JDM B16a swap in my 97 DX in about a month and then saving some more money for later on down the road to boost it. The question I have is instead of having to waste money on the exhaust shop fabing up my stock exhaust to work with the swap could I just have them run a full 3" exhaust with no cat since I will have to do that later anyways for the turbo? Or would I end up loosing power that way, thanks.

 

Well:

1. Yes, you will lose power with that setup.. It's best to just have them custom fab up something to get your cat-coverter to hook up to the b16a downpipe on the header and run the stock exhaust. You won't loose much power there and it won't cost a ton for them to do that. Oh and most shops don't have MANDREL BENDING equipment so that 3 inch exhaust really won't be 3 inches in the curves. You're better off getting a 3 inch exhaust (of some brand name) and then getting something fabbed for a test pipe when you're boosted. Unless, you're real stingy with money

2. With a 3 inch exhaust, no muffler, and no cat, you are going to be the loudest car on the face of the planet. You mine as well as run with no exhaust from the header-back lol (I'm joking, you'll notice a laggy gas response and no torque).. Besides, you can retain your second 02 sensor which you'll need as long as you're N/A.

3. Depending how much power and if you're going to build the motor, you can run 2.5 inch exhaust without losing any power up to about 300HP. after that, invest in 3.0 inch piping and you will notice significant gains in HP/TQ.

I have a turbo d16y8 boosted on a large t3/t4 turbo @ 10psi with ARP head studs @ 250HP. 2.5 inch exhaust with a test pipe is great. I hope this response helps you out.


Modified by ke98248 at 9:29 PM 6/19/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ke98248 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well:

1. Yes, you will lose power with that setup.. It's best to just have them custom fab up something to get your cat-coverter to hook up to the b16a downpipe on the header and run the stock exhaust. You won't loose much power there and it won't cost a ton for them to do that. Oh and most shops don't have MANDREL BENDING equipment so that 3 inch exhaust really won't be 3 inches in the curves. You're better off getting a 3 inch exhaust (of some brand name) and then getting something fabbed for a test pipe when you're boosted. Unless, you're real stingy with money

2. With a 3 inch exhaust, no muffler, and no cat, you are going to be the loudest car on the face of the planet. You mine as well as run with no exhaust from the header-back lol (I'm joking, you'll notice a laggy gas response and no torque).. Besides, you can retain your second 02 sensor which you'll need as long as you're N/A.

3. Depending how much power and if you're going to build the motor, you can run 2.5 inch exhaust without losing any power up to about 300HP. after that, invest in 3.0 inch piping and you will notice significant gains in HP/TQ.

I have a turbo d16y8 boosted on a large t3/t4 turbo @ 10psi with ARP head studs @ 250HP. 2.5 inch exhaust with a test pipe is great. I hope this response helps you out.


Modified by ke98248 at 9:29 PM 6/19/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, yes it helped out but I forgot to mention that I would infact be running a 3" inlet/outlet Vibrant muffler and either way I wouldn't run a cat with this or stock exhaust, the swap would be ordered from Hmotorsonline and I would be converting from OBD2a-OBD1 so the ECU wouldn't look for a secondary O2. I guess with that in mind would it still be dumb to it or would be real loud even with the muffler. I dont want to be getting pulled over everyday either for having an insanely loud exhaust. But realistically would it be a big amount of loss in in power or are just talking about a few HP/TQ, thanks again.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>