mild lsvtec build
been around H-T for a while.
i do a lot of reading and not too much typing, but i thought i would share my build.
i am awaiting products and for the machine shop to have a spot for me.
99 civic HB
p28 crome
LS block
stock B16a2 head milled .005"
all this has been bought
competition clutch 6puck sprung clutch
exedy pressure plate
DSM 450cc inj w
JG valve spring kit
KMS bronze valve guides
OEM valve seals bought a while ago
MSD 6a & blaster3 coil
81.50 cometic HG had laying around
82mm CTR nippon pistons $159
SK2 pro2 cams $519
Professional Products 68mm TB $138
Professional Products 65mm IM $159
Golden Eagle B16-B18-B20 Main Girdle Kit OE Hardware $388
OEM honda stuff
1 x COVER ASSY., R. SIDE $53.43
1 x PUMP ASSY., OIL $93.82
1 x WATER PUMP (YAMADA) $75.80
1 x TENSIONER, TIMING BELT $54.21
1 x GASKET SET, HEAD COVER $38.02
1 x RUBBER, SEAL (LOWER) $20.61
1 x SEAL B, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $2.75
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT MIDDLE $17.53
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT BACK $20.25
1 x SEAL A, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $3.61
1 x RUBBER, BACK SEAL $21.53
1 x SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE (TEC) $6.09
1 x GASKET, OIL PAN $19.83
1 x O-RING (26.2X2.4) (NOK)
$1.33 1 x GASKET, OIL STRAINER $1.51
6 x BOLT A, TIMING BELT COVER $16.02
2 x BOLT, TIMING BELT COVER $5.96
Sub-Total: $452.30
UPS and FedEx (Ground): $13.10
Handling Fee: $4.95
Discount Coupons:honda-tech10: $10.00
Total: $460.35 https://www.hondapartsdeals.com
machine work $420+/-
looking for around 200whp
pics up soon
wish me luck
i do a lot of reading and not too much typing, but i thought i would share my build.
i am awaiting products and for the machine shop to have a spot for me.
99 civic HB
p28 crome
LS block
stock B16a2 head milled .005"
all this has been bought
competition clutch 6puck sprung clutch
exedy pressure plate
DSM 450cc inj w
JG valve spring kit
KMS bronze valve guides
OEM valve seals bought a while ago
MSD 6a & blaster3 coil
81.50 cometic HG had laying around
82mm CTR nippon pistons $159
SK2 pro2 cams $519
Professional Products 68mm TB $138
Professional Products 65mm IM $159
Golden Eagle B16-B18-B20 Main Girdle Kit OE Hardware $388
OEM honda stuff
1 x COVER ASSY., R. SIDE $53.43
1 x PUMP ASSY., OIL $93.82
1 x WATER PUMP (YAMADA) $75.80
1 x TENSIONER, TIMING BELT $54.21
1 x GASKET SET, HEAD COVER $38.02
1 x RUBBER, SEAL (LOWER) $20.61
1 x SEAL B, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $2.75
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT MIDDLE $17.53
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT BACK $20.25
1 x SEAL A, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $3.61
1 x RUBBER, BACK SEAL $21.53
1 x SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE (TEC) $6.09
1 x GASKET, OIL PAN $19.83
1 x O-RING (26.2X2.4) (NOK)
$1.33 1 x GASKET, OIL STRAINER $1.51
6 x BOLT A, TIMING BELT COVER $16.02
2 x BOLT, TIMING BELT COVER $5.96
Sub-Total: $452.30
UPS and FedEx (Ground): $13.10
Handling Fee: $4.95
Discount Coupons:honda-tech10: $10.00
Total: $460.35 https://www.hondapartsdeals.com
machine work $420+/-
looking for around 200whp
pics up soon
wish me luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Went through the trouble of all that and never listed what intake/header/exhaust you are using lol!! Good luck guy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahaha
hahaha
ok?
you guys always have to nit pick the threads. give me a break
the the intake manifold is listed but for an intake i have a k&n filter hooked up to an ebay tube. [might get a C-hero velocity stack later]
the exhaust is a mandrel 2.5"
with a 20" resonator, a round 18" magnaflow and an oval magnaflow.
i am getting an mfactory oil sandwich plate and reusing the lsvtec lines i have. instead of buying th GE kit
header will be a hytec replica when ever i get the cash [itr unit for now]
decided against the ctr pistons. thought it over and over and i rather be safe than sorry. the itr units will give me enough compression for the pro2 cams and i wont have to worry about timing
if you guys have any suggestions i'm all ears, i'm here to learn not to brag to you guys or tell you about how much money i spent.
any informative comments are welcome, this is my first high compression NA build so any real advice is appreciated.
also this is getting broken in and tuned at the CFT dyno
Modified by formby at 11:37 AM 6/21/2008
you guys always have to nit pick the threads. give me a break
the the intake manifold is listed but for an intake i have a k&n filter hooked up to an ebay tube. [might get a C-hero velocity stack later]
the exhaust is a mandrel 2.5"
with a 20" resonator, a round 18" magnaflow and an oval magnaflow.
i am getting an mfactory oil sandwich plate and reusing the lsvtec lines i have. instead of buying th GE kit
header will be a hytec replica when ever i get the cash [itr unit for now]
decided against the ctr pistons. thought it over and over and i rather be safe than sorry. the itr units will give me enough compression for the pro2 cams and i wont have to worry about timing
if you guys have any suggestions i'm all ears, i'm here to learn not to brag to you guys or tell you about how much money i spent.
any informative comments are welcome, this is my first high compression NA build so any real advice is appreciated.
also this is getting broken in and tuned at the CFT dyno
Modified by formby at 11:37 AM 6/21/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by formby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok?
you guys always have to nit pick the threads. give me a break</TD></TR></TABLE>
Welcome to H-T and especially welcome to the all motor forum where it seems thats all most people in here do.
There are a few people in here that will be very helpful. Your better off to just keep reading up on info than asking questions around here.
you guys always have to nit pick the threads. give me a break</TD></TR></TABLE>
Welcome to H-T and especially welcome to the all motor forum where it seems thats all most people in here do.
There are a few people in here that will be very helpful. Your better off to just keep reading up on info than asking questions around here.
Trending Topics
thanks.
everything that ive learned since joining in 03 has been through reading and trying things.
this will hopefully be my last build i do for a couple years. i want to get at least 65k+ miles out of this engine hopefully more. the only thing i plan on doing down the road is a P&P
is there anything i should make sure the machine shop does as far as clearances? i wont be the one assembling the short block or freshening up the head
thanks for the heads up
everything that ive learned since joining in 03 has been through reading and trying things.
this will hopefully be my last build i do for a couple years. i want to get at least 65k+ miles out of this engine hopefully more. the only thing i plan on doing down the road is a P&P
is there anything i should make sure the machine shop does as far as clearances? i wont be the one assembling the short block or freshening up the head
thanks for the heads up
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gong Show »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Welcome to H-T and especially welcome to the all motor forum where it seems thats all most people in here do.
There are a few people in here that will be very helpful. Your better off to just keep reading up on info than asking questions around here.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Welcome to H-T and especially welcome to the all motor forum where it seems thats all most people in here do.
There are a few people in here that will be very helpful. Your better off to just keep reading up on info than asking questions around here.</TD></TR></TABLE>
as she sits waiting

almost everything i ordered is here, only thing missing are the pistons.
decided to go with PR3 pistons they look to be the best choice for my build. from what ive read the have a good dome shape.
the block seems to be in rough shape we'll see. im dropping it off tomorrow at 7am
i'm still debating whether i should still spray? i could use some cash but a 30-50 shot wouldn't hurt.

almost everything i ordered is here, only thing missing are the pistons.
decided to go with PR3 pistons they look to be the best choice for my build. from what ive read the have a good dome shape.
the block seems to be in rough shape we'll see. im dropping it off tomorrow at 7am
i'm still debating whether i should still spray? i could use some cash but a 30-50 shot wouldn't hurt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by formby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok?
you guys always have to nit pick the threads. give me a break
</TD></TR></TABLE>
While Clean rice may have come off a little harsh, he was really trying to point out a problem that most of us that spend any amount of time in the all motor forum encounter. Parts list overload.
When posting a build list, it would be much better and easier for people to help if the important parts were clearly listed. For example, here's the original parts list again:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by formby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
99 civic HB
p28 crome
LS block
stock B16a2 head milled .005"
all this has been bought
competition clutch 6puck sprung clutch
exedy pressure plate
DSM 450cc inj w
JG valve spring kit
KMS bronze valve guides
OEM valve seals bought a while ago
MSD 6a & blaster3 coil
81.50 cometic HG had laying around
82mm CTR nippon pistons $159
SK2 pro2 cams $519
Professional Products 68mm TB $138
Professional Products 65mm IM $159
Golden Eagle B16-B18-B20 Main Girdle Kit OE Hardware $388
OEM honda stuff
1 x COVER ASSY., R. SIDE $53.43
1 x PUMP ASSY., OIL $93.82
1 x WATER PUMP (YAMADA) $75.80
1 x TENSIONER, TIMING BELT $54.21
1 x GASKET SET, HEAD COVER $38.02
1 x RUBBER, SEAL (LOWER) $20.61
1 x SEAL B, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $2.75
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT MIDDLE $17.53
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT BACK $20.25
1 x SEAL A, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $3.61
1 x RUBBER, BACK SEAL $21.53
1 x SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE (TEC) $6.09
1 x GASKET, OIL PAN $19.83
1 x O-RING (26.2X2.4) (NOK)
$1.33 1 x GASKET, OIL STRAINER $1.51
6 x BOLT A, TIMING BELT COVER $16.02
2 x BOLT, TIMING BELT COVER $5.96
Sub-Total: $452.30
UPS and FedEx (Ground): $13.10
Handling Fee: $4.95
Discount Coupons:honda-tech10: $10.00
Total: $460.35 https://www.hondapartsdeals.com
machine work $420+/-looking for around 200whp
pics up soon
wish me luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
All the stuff listed in bold is for the most part, useless information. Things like, header, intake manifold and exhaust are much more important to list.
As far as some advice, I'd stick with the skunk 2 pro series valvetrain (springs).
you guys always have to nit pick the threads. give me a break
</TD></TR></TABLE>
While Clean rice may have come off a little harsh, he was really trying to point out a problem that most of us that spend any amount of time in the all motor forum encounter. Parts list overload.
When posting a build list, it would be much better and easier for people to help if the important parts were clearly listed. For example, here's the original parts list again:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by formby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
99 civic HB
p28 crome
LS block
stock B16a2 head milled .005"
all this has been bought
competition clutch 6puck sprung clutch
exedy pressure plate
DSM 450cc inj w
JG valve spring kit
KMS bronze valve guides
OEM valve seals bought a while ago
MSD 6a & blaster3 coil
81.50 cometic HG had laying around
82mm CTR nippon pistons $159
SK2 pro2 cams $519
Professional Products 68mm TB $138
Professional Products 65mm IM $159
Golden Eagle B16-B18-B20 Main Girdle Kit OE Hardware $388
OEM honda stuff
1 x COVER ASSY., R. SIDE $53.43
1 x PUMP ASSY., OIL $93.82
1 x WATER PUMP (YAMADA) $75.80
1 x TENSIONER, TIMING BELT $54.21
1 x GASKET SET, HEAD COVER $38.02
1 x RUBBER, SEAL (LOWER) $20.61
1 x SEAL B, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $2.75
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT MIDDLE $17.53
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT BACK $20.25
1 x SEAL A, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $3.61
1 x RUBBER, BACK SEAL $21.53
1 x SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE (TEC) $6.09
1 x GASKET, OIL PAN $19.83
1 x O-RING (26.2X2.4) (NOK)
$1.33 1 x GASKET, OIL STRAINER $1.51
6 x BOLT A, TIMING BELT COVER $16.02
2 x BOLT, TIMING BELT COVER $5.96
Sub-Total: $452.30
UPS and FedEx (Ground): $13.10
Handling Fee: $4.95
Discount Coupons:honda-tech10: $10.00
Total: $460.35 https://www.hondapartsdeals.com
machine work $420+/-looking for around 200whp
pics up soon
wish me luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
All the stuff listed in bold is for the most part, useless information. Things like, header, intake manifold and exhaust are much more important to list.
As far as some advice, I'd stick with the skunk 2 pro series valvetrain (springs).
Thankyou 00Red.
Reason I posted what I did is because the intake/header/exhaust play a HUGE role in how much power you're gonna make. I was just kinda dumb-founded why you would go through all the trouble of listing ALL of your mods, yet you forget 3 crucial parts??
Reason I posted what I did is because the intake/header/exhaust play a HUGE role in how much power you're gonna make. I was just kinda dumb-founded why you would go through all the trouble of listing ALL of your mods, yet you forget 3 crucial parts??
several reasons why I/H/E were not listed...
1. i dont know what header i want yet or how much money ill have left over after i get the engine back from the machine shop and in the car/started. kind of doing this on a budget.
2. exhaust wise I dont know if i want to get another 2.5" magnaflow muffler or get a perforated resonator or maybe a riffled one. since right now i have 2.25" riffled resonator > 2.5" and i love the tone and it gets complimented alot
3.or i might get rid of the resonator all together and replace the straight through magnaflow oval with a baffled flowmaster. this might flow better but i have a felling it would be too loud.
4. to me an intake is just a pipe. true one can get a couple hp from different designs but this is my DD with AC so i'm not worried about it.
unfortunately the intake manifold i ordered was on back order and i was refunded. so ill have to wait for now and get one later.
:{
1. i dont know what header i want yet or how much money ill have left over after i get the engine back from the machine shop and in the car/started. kind of doing this on a budget.
2. exhaust wise I dont know if i want to get another 2.5" magnaflow muffler or get a perforated resonator or maybe a riffled one. since right now i have 2.25" riffled resonator > 2.5" and i love the tone and it gets complimented alot
3.or i might get rid of the resonator all together and replace the straight through magnaflow oval with a baffled flowmaster. this might flow better but i have a felling it would be too loud.
4. to me an intake is just a pipe. true one can get a couple hp from different designs but this is my DD with AC so i'm not worried about it.
unfortunately the intake manifold i ordered was on back order and i was refunded. so ill have to wait for now and get one later.
:{
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From my personal experience I would ditch the DSM 450's. More horror story's than success. Other than that you seem good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
could you elaborate?
i told the tuner what i had as fas as injectors and what not and he said it was fine.
any suggestions?
could you elaborate?
i told the tuner what i had as fas as injectors and what not and he said it was fine.
any suggestions?
This was from another thread:
"DSM injectors and Honda ECUs are a bad mix, especially with Hondata. Taken straight from the horse's mouth":
http://www.hondata.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=432
"DSM injectors and Honda ECUs are a bad mix, especially with Hondata. Taken straight from the horse's mouth":
http://www.hondata.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=432
seems like 310 are right on but the 450 should be ok...
edit: read the hondata thing, but if that were the case how come they are still widely used?
Modified by formby at 11:30 AM 7/2/2008
edit: read the hondata thing, but if that were the case how come they are still widely used?
Modified by formby at 11:30 AM 7/2/2008
Some people may be using them with other tuning systems other than hondata etc. The main thing to remember is that they don't say they will never work together, they say that it's not a good idea to use them because they are prone to troubles and that should be fair enough warning to not risk your engine on a chance they may work.
just finished taking the engine out. it was my first time doing it all alone and it took me little over an hour. took my time and no problems
. tomorrow after my wife gets home and i dont have to take care of the baby i'm cleaning the bay and garage. if i have time i might reroute the head light wires.


during the week i'm going to take the harness apart and maybe try my hand at a novice wire tuck
ill get better pics when i have some time...
happy 4th !!!
. tomorrow after my wife gets home and i dont have to take care of the baby i'm cleaning the bay and garage. if i have time i might reroute the head light wires.

during the week i'm going to take the harness apart and maybe try my hand at a novice wire tuck
ill get better pics when i have some time...
happy 4th !!!
A lot has been going on.
my montero got broken into and they took my wifes purse
and lets just say they had a good time on my cash and cards....
any way
sent out the engine and short block to the machine shop.
turns out i spun the bearing on rod 4 and the block i had as a spare had a spun rod also #2. so i had nothing to work with and no one i know ir could call has a crank available for today.
i decided to go ahead and use a crank kit. 010/.010. not the best choice and i would usually not do this but i have no choice i need the car running yesterday and i dont have a lot of cash after what happened.
the head was fine it was freshened up and i should be getting the engine back by tuesday of next week
my montero got broken into and they took my wifes purse
and lets just say they had a good time on my cash and cards....
any way
sent out the engine and short block to the machine shop.
turns out i spun the bearing on rod 4 and the block i had as a spare had a spun rod also #2. so i had nothing to work with and no one i know ir could call has a crank available for today.
i decided to go ahead and use a crank kit. 010/.010. not the best choice and i would usually not do this but i have no choice i need the car running yesterday and i dont have a lot of cash after what happened.
the head was fine it was freshened up and i should be getting the engine back by tuesday of next week
congrats, at a good point in time im sure. Just a question what is your compression going to be and your bore i might have missed that? Those cams sound freaking hudge dont they like 2.0L high cr motors? Im not a expert by any means i was just asking so please dont feel like i was bashing your cam choice



