How Many Miles can 4 Cyliner Honda Engines Go... ???
Usually they will go the exact amount of miles they have when they blow up. Somewhere between 50 and 300000 miles. Or so.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ***$nyper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depends on so many things. How does, a long time sound?</TD></TR></TABLE>
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealth50k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When it starts to burn massive amounts of 20-50 oil.
</TD></TR></TABLE>So at what MILEAGE (average) does oil burning/compression loss/spun bearings typically occur ??
200k ? 250k ?
They don't last forever of course....
I'm looking at used cars and I'm just trying to determine how much is TOO much when it comes to mileage.
Would appreciate good/solid/factual Technical advice.
</TD></TR></TABLE>So at what MILEAGE (average) does oil burning/compression loss/spun bearings typically occur ??200k ? 250k ?
They don't last forever of course....
I'm looking at used cars and I'm just trying to determine how much is TOO much when it comes to mileage.
Would appreciate good/solid/factual Technical advice.
milage means very little.There are cars out there with only 20Kmi on them I wouldn't touch and then there are cars with 200Kmi that I would buy anytime.
I bought my del sol 5 years ago with the odd broken at 252Kmi and have put at least 120K on since then and no problems at all.
I just got 40mi/gal last week..
Depends on the way it was treated,not miles driven usually.
I bought my del sol 5 years ago with the odd broken at 252Kmi and have put at least 120K on since then and no problems at all.
I just got 40mi/gal last week..
Depends on the way it was treated,not miles driven usually.
Motors can be rebuilt/refreshed back to OEM clearances and last another 250k on top of what's on it now.
More importantly, I'd look at the other parts of the chassis like bushings, brakes, suspension, etc. Normal wear and tear over the years (and miles) will take it's toll on these parts if they were never replaced/inspected. A perfectly running 300k mile motor won't do you any good if the chassis can't even roll straight.
More importantly, I'd look at the other parts of the chassis like bushings, brakes, suspension, etc. Normal wear and tear over the years (and miles) will take it's toll on these parts if they were never replaced/inspected. A perfectly running 300k mile motor won't do you any good if the chassis can't even roll straight.
i am driving a 1994 accord with aproxx 230,000. bone stock. i am waiting on it to blow so i can have a excuse (for the wife) for my swap but it hasen't. i run it to the limiter everyday and make sure that my oil (quaker state syntec hp 10-30) is full to the top.
car runs stronger everyday.....
car runs stronger everyday.....
there is a lot of things to look for. Massive oil spills, cleanliness of the engine bay (and not the dealer steam cleaning the engine, BIG difference) stupid things that help, break pedal (if its worn to the metal and the car has 50k, something is wrong) and if you get a chance the compression test/ leakdown test in the best. next cheapo test is the look into the valve color very light color is good dark brown is not soo good (would dictate how often the oil was changed) G/L hunting
all hondas dont burn oil as posted above. I had a beater hatch for about 50,000 miles and it had 180,000 on a db15 and it didnt burn any oil,
I didnt even have to check the oil in between changes 3,000 miles. Cuz i knew it was always full!.
I didnt even have to check the oil in between changes 3,000 miles. Cuz i knew it was always full!.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am driving a 1994 accord with aproxx 230,000. bone stock. i am waiting on it to blow so i can have a excuse (for the wife) for my swap but it hasen't. i run it to the limiter everyday and make sure that my oil (quaker state syntec hp 10-30) is full to the top.
car runs stronger everyday.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Right there is your mistake my friend!
STOP putting oil in in and it WILL blow up!
Then you'll have a legit "excuse" to give your wife to do that swap!
car runs stronger everyday.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>Right there is your mistake my friend!
STOP putting oil in in and it WILL blow up!
Then you'll have a legit "excuse" to give your wife to do that swap!
My brothers d15 non vtec was at 290,000 before the camshaft snapped in half. It was burning quarts of oil until he threw some 20-50 in there and then it lasted a pretty long time. The oil burned too low one time though and at 2am the camshaft snapped in half lol.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am driving a 1994 accord with aproxx 230,000. bone stock. i am waiting on it to blow so i can have a excuse (for the wife) for my swap but it hasen't. i run it to the limiter everyday and make sure that my oil (quaker state syntec hp 10-30) is full to the top.
car runs stronger everyday.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, just fill that bitch with sand instead of oil.
car runs stronger everyday.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>Dude, just fill that bitch with sand instead of oil.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Motors can be rebuilt/refreshed back to OEM clearances and last another 250k on top of what's on it now.
More importantly, I'd look at the other parts of the chassis like bushings, brakes, suspension, etc. Normal wear and tear over the years (and miles) will take it's toll on these parts if they were never replaced/inspected. A perfectly running 300k mile motor won't do you any good if the chassis can't even roll straight.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i totally agree....my 89 hyundai excel(1994)went close 200k before i forgot to put some oil in and a rod went through the block. My 89 d15 went to around 150 and the only problem was a slipping clutch. i just did my usually oil and brake changes.
More importantly, I'd look at the other parts of the chassis like bushings, brakes, suspension, etc. Normal wear and tear over the years (and miles) will take it's toll on these parts if they were never replaced/inspected. A perfectly running 300k mile motor won't do you any good if the chassis can't even roll straight.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i totally agree....my 89 hyundai excel(1994)went close 200k before i forgot to put some oil in and a rod went through the block. My 89 d15 went to around 150 and the only problem was a slipping clutch. i just did my usually oil and brake changes.
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