I know it's been gone over a few times, just want to be sure before I go ahead with it. Stock internals, T3/T04, going for around 300-325 whp. Would it be safe

 

That is about the MAXIMUM that the stock motor can hold. After that, you're on a time limit for the physical integrity of the internals.

 

so 280-300 whp would be more like it? Safer?

 

By the way, Im planning on having Jeff Evans tune it with a S300

 

yeah i would say that's about that engines limit from looking at it from a safely stand point. then again, a lot of people have pushed way more on stock internals. ultimately, what power level your engine is going to be safe at all depends on the tune. talk to your tuner, and see what he is comfortable tuning it up to and go from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HarfordCTR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">By the way, Im planning on having Jeff Evans tune it with a S300</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah, thats like letting the hand of God tune your car, you'll be fine with 300 whp on stock block. But honestly, I wouldn't push much harder than that. However, I have seen 350+ on stock motors before. It has a lot to do with the tune. Talk to Jeff when you get there to tune and he will tell you what he's comfortable with.

Dude I live near belair with my Type R....haha we should meet up..

 

And Jeff would say that on a stock ITR motor, that would be about it.. Even well tuned, the more aggressive to make more power, the more additional wear on the internal components.

 

300 would be fine with me. So thats what Im hoping for. And this car is no dailly driver. Just a weekend car.

 

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Dude I live near belair with my Type R....haha we should meet up.. [/QUOTE]

You have prob seen my hatch around town then. I've had it for years

 

I probably have honestly. You ever hang at Agile?

 

If I was stuck with a type-r, I'd build an ls/vtec and buy all my turbo parts - with the money I got for the ITR swap. Then buy a 6-pack with whats left

Honestly you're asking for trouble. At the very least, forged or lower CR pistons are a good idea. But definately stick with a high-end intercooler, precision/garrett/etc core. You want the air charge as cool as possible.

 

i'd get a thicker headgasket and headstuds at least... it just gives you a little bit more room.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd get a thicker headgasket and headstuds at least... it just gives you a little bit more room. </TD></TR></TABLE>I was thinking that too. But I have had other people tell me to just run it as is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HarfordCTR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking that too. But I have had other people tell me to just run it as is</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you only push 300 whp, you can run as is. But sometimes it has more to do with the PSI & turbo size than the whp. I personally wouldn't run anymore than 300 whp or 8 psi on my stock motor

 

If you saw my car before it was a while ago. Its a teal Hatch. Never been to Agile ever

 

Here's what's left of my turbo B18C5:



But I rolled around untuned for a few weeks

 

Im def not gonna drive it untuned

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HarfordCTR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking that too. But I have had other people tell me to just run it as is</TD></TR></TABLE>

those people are just bandwagoners who dont take real life into consideration, what if you get a bad tank of gas? what if your boost creeps one day (it happens), what if your tune is not rock solid? the engine wiill be running on edge and i personally dont like that, i like to know i have a little room.

 

good point bud. Im leaning towards headstuds and thicker gasket.

 

do you have a JDM or USDM engine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

those people are just bandwagoners who dont take real life into consideration, what if you get a bad tank of gas? what if your boost creeps one day (it happens), what if your tune is not rock solid? the engine wiill be running on edge and i personally dont like that, i like to know i have a little room. </TD></TR></TABLE>


this can happen with any tank of gas boost creep, this can still blow built motors, not just a type-r I've been in both worlds built motor and stock motors. they all last according to the tune and how healthy the motor is. you can leave it as is. If you have a healthy motor and a great tune, technically...your good. If your going to go into it and change stuff just get rid of the type and get something different (ls-vtec). that's coming from experience and Tony1 tuning my cars.

BTW-the first motor he tuned for me was beat down before i got it. Its still good-thus tune making the difference.
My fully built Ls-vtec, i built it 4 yrs ago....ran it to hell then sold it then that guy sold it then that guy sold it- still running strong at 400whp in chicago-thus tune.

leave it as is and let jeff tune it. don't run it untuned though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridcivicLS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


this can happen with any tank of gas boost creep, this can still blow built motors, not just a type-r I've been in both worlds built motor and stock motors. they all last according to the tune and how healthy the motor is. you can leave it as is. If you have a healthy motor and a great tune, technically...your good. If your going to go into it and change stuff just get rid of the type and get something different (ls-vtec). that's coming from experience and Tony1 tuning my cars.

BTW-the first motor he tuned for me was beat down before i got it. Its still good-thus tune making the difference.
My fully built Ls-vtec, i built it 4 yrs ago....ran it to hell then sold it then that guy sold it then that guy sold it- still running strong at 400whp in chicago-thus tune.

leave it as is and let jeff tune it. don't run it untuned though </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm not really sure what your saying and im not trying to be a smart *** by saying that. i think you missunderstood me, i'm talking about 1 thing, making X amount of WHP with X grade fuel with X compression. most people don't build 11.3:1 turbo cars unless there running methanol.

 

Its a USDM motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i'm not really sure what your saying and im not trying to be a smart *** by saying that. i think you missunderstood me, i'm talking about 1 thing, making X amount of WHP with X grade fuel with X compression. most people don't build 11.3:1 turbo cars unless there running methanol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i didn't think you were being a smart ***, i just was a little long winded with what i was trying to say. basically

Tuning+healthy motor= "technically"-good running motor. with the high C/R he will just reach his numbers at a lower Psi. 300-325 i think will be fine IMO. like stated before depends on what the tuner feels comfortable with according to how efficient and how the motor reacts to boost.

yeah most people don't build 11:3:1-but each motor is different. Sound like hes thinking more about reliability....tuners and motor determine that, driver as well


Modified by HybridcivicLS-T at 9:29 AM 6/19/2008

 

I just don't want it to blow the first month I have it running. I don't drive it much, and I have another block Im going to build in the mean time