Hey guys. New to the forums. Really here to get some opinions and a little advice from the people who are doing it on a daily basis. Here is the skinny:

The Car: 1992 Honda Civic Si Hatchback
The Motor: JDM B16A
The Tranny: JDM Y21 (non-LSD)
The Upgrades: DC Sports JDM ITR 4-1 Headers, High flow catalyst, 2.5 custom exhaust, VAFC II (waiting on install) and Walbro 255LPH High Flow Fuel Pump.

Here is my question:

Buddy Club spec 4 Camshafts, Cam Gears and Valve Springs - What will I need to do, if anything, to the rest of my motor if I go with this head package? I can get these 3 things for my motor for about $700 and I have heard really good things about B16 power with Buddy Club parts. I just don't want to waste time, money and effort on such a good package if it is going to have to sit in my shop for 2-3 months while I save more money for bottom end work. I know I need a Fuel Pressure regulator, an Air/Fuel Ratio gauge (for tuning) and possibly a new fuel rail to optimize the new light weight valve train. Can you guys think of anything else that I might need/want to go along with it?

Any and all help would be most appreciated and please let me know if I am wrong on something. I am a little new to Honda tuning and any help is appreciated.

 

If you haven't already bought the fuel pump but need to purchase one, just go with the 190lph. The 255lph is beyond overkill and is really meant for boosted cars.

BC 4 cams will work but you may find the BC3+ cams a better choice for the b16a. The rest of the valvetrain you list is fine and all should work well with the stock bottom end if it's healthy. It's not so much an air/fuel gauge that you need, but a wideband O2 sensor with digital readout would help you see what the car is doing and be helpful for tuning.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92B16aCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and possibly a new fuel rail to optimize the new light weight valve train. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I must say, this quote confuses the hell out of me...a fuel rail is for looks mainly and has nothing to do with valvetrain, lightweight or other..

Run a good 2.75" cai, that should help.

 

What I was getting at with the new fuel parts is adding more fuel to compensate for the additional air intake from the new head work. I am planning on having a performance shop near my home do a port and polish when they install the new valve train components. Basically I was saying that I needed to add more fuel because I was also adding better flow is all. Probably still half asleep. Thanks though for the input. The kit I am purchasing comes with adjustable cam gears, the camshafts and the valve springs. I guess I was wondering if the stock retainers and valves are sufficient to handle the new cam profile and springs? I know I can get new valves for about $200 so if I need to replace those as well I will.

 

Also forgot to mention that the 255LPH is already installed in the Civic. Haven't noticed any problems with it but I haven't been able to monitor air/fuel yet. I guess we will see when I can get a look at what is going on in there.

 

Like 00Red_SiR, you'll have a lot better experience with the BC3+.
For tuning forget the VAFC, just get a chipped p28. You can use crome, pro, etc. or get hondata.

 

Could you guys give me some insight as to why I should chose spec 3 over spec 4? I'm not saying you are all wrong and what not I am just curious as to the reasons why you prefer them.

 

Stock B16A compression and displacement with those cams will result in very peaky hp. You make ~160 to 170 whp at 9K. BC3+ will cams produce a wider range of whp relative to BC4 on a B16A. Plus, the on set of vtec will be much earlier (~5200 to 8500 rpm) instead of 6200 rpm. This will make you car a lot more fun to drive and you won't have to rev to outer space to produce torque. The BC3+ won't make as much peak power but the distribution will be a lot better for driving and engine reliablity.

 

Okay that makes good sense. I am thinking that I will probably just go ahead and replace the entire valve train. I mean the kit comes with cam gears, the cam shafts and new springs. The valves and retainers aren't that much more expensive. Then I can focus elsewhere and gain some more power hopefully.

 

i would definately reconsider. BC3 are a better choice for the smaller displacement and stock compression. $700's not a bad deal at all, but really, wait til you decide to go 2 litres.

 

A chipped and programmable ECU is always helpful.

 

Do you have access to a dyno?

RM M21/Toda A/S2S1/BC3+ are good cams for your motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have access to a dyno?

RM M21/Toda A/S2S1/BC3+ are good cams for your motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This ^^