I HAVE A 95 EX ACCORD AND I'M HAVE A VERY DIFFICULT TIME WITH THE BRAKES. THE PEDAL LIKES TO GO TO THE FLOOR, USUALLY AFTER THE CAR HAS WARMED UP. WHEN THE CAR IS OFF THEY ARE STIFF BUT WHEN YOU TURN IT ON THEY GET MUSHY. A FEW POINTS:
1.REPLACED ALL 4 CALIPERS
2.NEW PADS ALL AROUND
3. 2 NEW FRONT ROTORS
4. REAR ROTORS TURNED
5. MANUALLY BLEED
6. BLEED ON A MACHINE
7.BLEED AGAIN
8. I WAS AN IDIOT AND TRIED TO TAKE TOP OF ABS RESERVOIR OFF AND DUMPED ALL THE FLUID OUT AND DIDN'T KNOW HOW TO REFILL - HAS BEEN REFILLED NOW
9. THE ABS PUMP DOES RUN AT START UP - YOU CAN HEAR IT AND FEEL IT AND USUALLY WHEN IT TURNS OFF THE ABS LIGHT TURNS ON
10. THE ABS LIGHT IS ON MOST OF THE TIME - SOMETIMES IT WILL TURN OFF AND TURN BACK ON WITH IN 30 SECONDS.
11. IT HAS FRESH BRAKE FLUID AND DOES NOT LEAK
12. BRAKE LINES ARE IN GOOD SHAPE
13. EVERYTHING ELSE BRAKE WISE IS ORIGINAL
14. NO I HAVEN'T TRIED TO READ THE CODE YET - WILL TRY PROBABLY TOMORROW

COULD IT BE THE MASTER CYLINDER, BRAKE BOOSTER, DIAPHRAGM, METERING VALVE? I'M AT WHITS END PULLING MY HAIR OUT. HAS ANYONE HAD ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS? ANY HELP WOULD REALLY BE GRAND AND MAYBE I'LL HAVE SOME HAIR LEFT WHEN THIS IS ALL OVER.
THANK YOU

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monkey508 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">COULD IT BE THE MASTER CYLINDER, </TD></TR></TABLE>

Quite possibly. The MC can leak internally, whereby the pressure (and fluid) leaks past one of the piston seals escaping back into the reseviour (i.e. fluid leaks back into the reseviour, pressure just goes along for the ride). Since the leak is internal, there are no external signs of leakage and the fluid level remains constant.

In this case the pedal will be initially firm (or at least 'normal' feeling), but continued pedal pressure (as when sitting at the lights) will cause the pedal to progressively sink toward the floor (typically you'll be able to pump the pedal back up, but it will then sink again). The problem can be erratic, and is sometimes temperature affected, e.g. happens on hot days but not cold days, or possibly when the engine bay ambient temp is warm but not when cool.

If this is your problem, then you need a new MC.

 

YOU HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD, THATS EXACTLY WHAT IT'S DOING
TY SO MUCH .

SHOULD I GET A BRAKE BOOSTER ALSO?

 

Hello,
I have the exact same problem. did you get it fixed ?
I am tearing out so much hair that I have a bald top now.
did your rpms go down as as well when the pedal hits the floor ?
I have a new master cyl in the car and don't know what is happening.
Eagerly waiting for your reply.
Thanks
Jay.

 

AFTER REPLACING FRONT ROTORS , 4 CALIPERS, 4 SETS OF PADS,BLEED THEM MANY TIMES MANUALLY AND BY MACHINE, TURNED THE REAR ROTORS 3 TIME TO GET THE WARPS OUT. IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE MASTER CYLINDER, SO I BOUGHT A NISSIN MASTER CYLINDER AND INSTALLED IT AND BLEED THE HECK OUT OF THEM IT CURED THE PROBLEM THEY WORK BETTER THAN WHEN NEW.