Just wondering if I can, or if I need to hack in to some other wires. I would imagine I could..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by inh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wondering if I can, or if I need to hack in to some other wires. I would imagine I could..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would recommend getting power from the dash harness, stay away from the ecu.
Concerning the ground, use a direct battery ground.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by inh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wondering if I can, or if I need to hack in to some other wires. I would imagine I could..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never hooked it up the to power and ground for the O2 sensor heater wires, but the main ECU power and ground are fine, done it a million times...make sure it's the switched ECU power.

 

Well I just recently hooked up my LC-1 kit and I used one of the extra power supplies from the fuse box on my EG, plus I think they recommend that it be a fused power supply, so I connected mine per instructions and connected all of the grounds together (soldered) and made connection on the block and all is well so far.

 

If you use ECU power and ground wires it's fine, it's not like the power is coming FROM the ECU. I like to use those wires because I notice a lot less difference between the LM1 and logged AFR in my software, using the ELD with the resistors removed it's dead on.

 

red wire fused to A25
blue wire to chassis
black wire to chassis (with led and pushbutton inline as per manual)
yellow wire to D14 (capped at 3.8v) (or D10 full range if using neptune)
brown wire to aux gauge or nothing
white and green wires to D22, a few inches from each other.

that spells success

-M@