Hi,

I'm going to be buying a brian crower stroker kit but I cannot decide to go 92mm or 95mm. What do all you guys think? Which one is going to be more reliable and less rebuilding?
This is going to be used on a b20 mainly used for racing and occasionally on the street.

Thanks

Nath

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nath &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which one is going to be more reliable and less rebuilding?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

92mm

 

Thats what i thought.
Are these better made than the eagle ones? I dont want it destroying my motor. Do they have the same strength as an oem crank?

Thanks

Nath

 

Anyone?

 

95 mm all the way, and the bc storkers work amazing.. youll be surpirzed, i've built a few with the 95mm crank and its been a year for 1 car on over 400whp daily, no wear on the bearings, or the cylinder walls, pistons look fresh... this is on a stock sleve motor as well.. i will be runing a 95mm crank in my new race setup, with a 74mm turbo, we will see how they do around 40+ psi...

 

95 mm all the way below is the math for the 95mm. I am running a 95mm in my ls/vtec its an eagle.

Displacement

mm inch
Engine Displacement (cid) = 119.49
Engine Displacement (liters) = 1.96
Engine Displacement (cc) = 1958.16
Single Cyclinder Volume (cid) = 29.87
Single Cyclinder Volume (liters) = 0.49
Single Cyclinder Volume (cc) = 489.54
# of Cyclinders = 4
Cyclinder Bore = 81.000 3.189
Piston Bore = 81.000 3.189
Crank Stroke = 95.000 3.740

Engine Geometry & Clearances

Rod Length = 137.000 5.394
R/S Ratio = 1.442
Maximum Engine RPM = 8021
Redline RPM = 7500
Maximum Piston Speed (fpm) = 4675.197


Just dont plan on revving it past 8000 or even 7500

 

So the brian crower kits are safe to use? Not likely to breaking like the eagle cranks?
I'm investing alot of money into this engine and don't want it shattering into pieces. Everything i've read about the eagle cranks is bad. Just want to make sure its a safe option.

steven_highet:
Is there a website with that on somewhere I can just bash my numbers into?

Thanks

Nath

 

i did that on an excel speadsheet i can sent it to you if you want. it shows eveything you need to know! what i posted is just 1/4 of the info it can tell you and its all correct.

Dont believe everything you read! Brian Crower is good but Eagle is just as good im not one to just pay for the name.

So what have you read?

95mm by far is not safe and the r/s ratio is insane but it works and it all depends on what you are building the car for?

What is your reasoning for wanting to go 95mm?

There are pros and cons to having such any extreme stroke.

Pros.

Displacement.
Lowend torque.
Decreased detonation threshhold as the piston is running away from the flame front.
Throttle response
Increased sexyness due to increased stroke LOL

Cons

Increased interial stress
Increased cylinder wall loading and wear
Drecreased RPM
Increased Piston Accel and Decel Speeds

And maybe and few more but i guess its all what you want. I aint bulding my engine to last 100 000 miles so it dont matter to me. Be sure to do extensive blueprinting on the engine you are building and you will be fine.

This is Steven_Highet

 

If you wouldn't mind sending me the spreadsheet that would be great.
I've read that eagle are not very well built and often sheer. I remember seeing a picture of an engine split in 2 beacause of it.
I'm thinking going with the 92mm just for the higher realiability. This engine is being built mainly for use on the track but I will use it every now and then on the road. Oh I can't remember if I said that its also going to be running boost.

Thanks
Nath

 

K.I.S.S

Stock 87.2 or 89mm, there's absolutely no good reason to run a stroker crank on a boost setup. You'll egg your bores faster, kill bearings...and it's not going to give you any benefit compared to a properly built turbo setup. Big waste of money...and there's already plenty of **** to waste money on. Use whatever crank you have, some shelf eagles (Because for every 10 people that say they want 600whp, 9 of them never crack 400), and a good set of pistons like JE or Wiseco. Spend your money on a proper setup...and tuning. Don't be like most of these morons and blow their load on dumbshit then cheapout on the important stuff because they are broke. Find a good tuner, and spend the money on dynotime. Some 17yr old kid street tuning your car on crome in front of your crib for wendys doesn't count.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K.I.S.S

Stock 87.2 or 89mm, there's absolutely no good reason to run a stroker crank on a boost setup. You'll egg your bores faster, kill bearings...and it's not going to give you any benefit compared to a properly built turbo setup. Big waste of money...and there's already plenty of **** to waste money on. Use whatever crank you have, some shelf eagles (Because for every 10 people that say they want 600whp, 9 of them never crack 400), and a good set of pistons like JE or Wiseco. Spend your money on a proper setup...and tuning. Don't be like most of these morons and blow their load on dumbshit then cheapout on the important stuff because they are broke. Find a good tuner, and spend the money on dynotime. Some 17yr old kid street tuning your car on crome in front of your crib for wendys doesn't count.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol...that was the funniest thing that i have read today.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K.I.S.S

Stock 87.2 or 89mm, there's absolutely no good reason to run a stroker crank on a boost setup. You'll egg your bores faster, kill bearings...and it's not going to give you any benefit compared to a properly built turbo setup. Big waste of money...and there's already plenty of **** to waste money on. Use whatever crank you have, some shelf eagles (Because for every 10 people that say they want 600whp, 9 of them never crack 400), and a good set of pistons like JE or Wiseco. Spend your money on a proper setup...and tuning. Don't be like most of these morons and blow their load on dumbshit then cheapout on the important stuff because they are broke. Find a good tuner, and spend the money on dynotime. Some 17yr old kid street tuning your car on crome in front of your crib for wendys doesn't count.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So your saying not to bother with a stroker kit and just use a b18 gsr or itr crank?

Anyone else want to chime in?

Some good info here guys thanks.

Nath

 

Pm me you email.

Like has been said there are Pro's and Con's only you can decide what you want. Every thing has its place. ME personally i like the feel of lowend torque and thats what I build my end to do. And by no means have I cheaped out on everything. Have a look at my buildthread everytyhing has been looked at and taken into consideration!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nath &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So your saying not to bother with a stroker kit and just use a b18 gsr or itr crank?

Anyone else want to chime in?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with that.

 

I don't really want to lower the the engine capacity, which im guessing a b18 crank will do? How strong are the b20 cranks? What will they take revs and boost wise?


Thanks

Nath

 

As much as or more than an aftermarket stroker crank will.

 

Like Suprdave said, go with an 87.2mm or 89mm crank. There is no reason for you to go with a stroker if your plans for this motor is racing anyways. If you are road racing or drag racing you will be in the higher rpms 90% of the time anyways so what do you need that low-end for? Stick with a stock crank!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K.I.S.S

Stock 87.2 or 89mm, there's absolutely no good reason to run a stroker crank on a boost setup. You'll egg your bores faster, kill bearings...and it's not going to give you any benefit compared to a properly built turbo setup. Big waste of money...and there's already plenty of **** to waste money on. Use whatever crank you have, some shelf eagles (Because for every 10 people that say they want 600whp, 9 of them never crack 400), and a good set of pistons like JE or Wiseco. Spend your money on a proper setup...and tuning. Don't be like most of these morons and blow their load on dumbshit then cheapout on the important stuff because they are broke. Find a good tuner, and spend the money on dynotime. Some 17yr old kid street tuning your car on crome in front of your crib for wendys doesn't count.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


10,000% agreed

 

ROFL!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K.I.S.S

Find a good tuner, and spend the money on dynotime. Some 17yr old kid street tuning your car on crome in front of your crib for wendys doesn't count.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Use the 87.2 or the 89mm we are using the borg warner s372r spinning 10500 on an 89mm crank no use in stroking it. Stock B20 crank is an 89mm stick with it use manely or pater rods for reliablity. If you're running a nisc size turbo you will need the rpm to make power.

 

I didnt think the stock b20 crank took to revs very well? I heard there only good for around 7500 revs?
If thats the case i'll go with a b18 crank and bore it.

 

Dude simply put....all you need is a 89mm LS crank at the largest. I am spinning 9500 rpms without any issues, making 540/350 on pump gas. You don't need a longer stroke. Listen to these guys, they know what they are talking about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude simply put....all you need is a 89mm LS crank at the largest. I am spinning 9500 rpms without any issues, making 540/350 on pump gas. You don't need a longer stroke. Listen to these guys, they know what they are talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I am mate, going to go for an 87mm crank just for the extra revs. U mind sharing the complete spec of your motor?

Thanks everyone for some great advice.

Nath

 

Its 84x89 mm bore/crank....Darton Sleeves, MID kit, CP 9:1 pistons, Manley Rods, Ferrea valves, valve springs, and retainers. Portflow PnP head, etc, etc.

You will probably make more torque with the 89mm and since no one has said this:

HIGHER RPMS TO NOT MEAN MORE POWER. You should be shifting where the power begins to fall, any rpms after that is just bragging rights and you praying you don't blow your motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its 84x89 mm bore/crank....Darton Sleeves, MID kit, CP 9:1 pistons, Manley Rods, Ferrea valves, valve springs, and retainers. Portflow PnP head, etc, etc.

You will probably make more torque with the 89mm and since no one has said this:

HIGHER RPMS TO NOT MEAN MORE POWER. You should be shifting where the power begins to fall, any rpms after that is just bragging rights and you praying you don't blow your motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So the 89mm crank is a b18/b20 crank? Is the b18 stronger then the b20 or are they identical? I just remember reading that the b20 crank was not that strong?
Where do you make your power?

Thanks again

Nath