Integra '86 engine harness... will it work with a ZC swap?
I need to know if a '86 Integra engine harness will work with a ZC swap on my '89 CRX DX. I'm in the middle of the swap and this is the only harness that I have found that may work.
NO NO NO NO is the short answer.
The 86-87 tegs are vac advance. You can use one of them kind-of with swaps into first gen CRXes. Don't go near them - world of pain.
Your best bet would probably be to do DPFI to MPFI conversion. I have extra injector harness wire sets if you need one. They should be cheap + easy to find near you too.
The 86-87 tegs are vac advance. You can use one of them kind-of with swaps into first gen CRXes. Don't go near them - world of pain.
Your best bet would probably be to do DPFI to MPFI conversion. I have extra injector harness wire sets if you need one. They should be cheap + easy to find near you too.
Not sure if it will work, but I have a harness from an '88-'89 Integra for sale (electronic advance), ready to ship. Shoot me an e-mail at cvcc721@yahoo.com if you're interested. Thanks!
Can you tell me where can I find a good harness for sale for my JDM ZC swap? Down here in Puerto Rico I can find them only in one place but the people want too much for it.
These instructions are for making your 4 speed Civic or DX Civic / CRX wiring ready to use with the ZC (or Si)
a) You MUST use your existing wiring harness that came with your car.
b) It is much easier to take off the DX harness and put it on the ZC after the engine is in the car.
WIRING PROCESS:
WHAT YOU NEED: Chilton's manual, the same gauge wire (18- different colors if you want),
Si or an Integra ECU, and extra pins, looming, and tape, 1990-1991 Fuel Injection Volt
Resistor Box (ridged texture and located in the top right corner of the engine bay)
1) Put the DX harness on the ZC when the engine is installed.
2) It is like the Si and ZC harness in most ways and should connect in most spots.
3) Make sure you have the right plugs going to the same places they were before.
4) The plugs should all fit on (even if they are different color). If you cant seem
to get enough of the wire (it should be tight), cut some of the tape and the black
looming off. This should release more wire for you to use. The round three plug
TPS was hard to stretch to reach the TPS sensor, but just cut the tape and loom.
5) When you have finished matching and plugging everything, C117 and C118 will
be left over as well as the C115 plug (brown) for the Tandem Valve Control
which is not used. Leave it hang or tape it up.
6) You should have the wire harness attached to all the right places and everything
ready for the modification.
7) Go inside the car on the passenger side and carefully take up the carpet in the
front where your feet goes (kickboard). This shall reveal your 1.5L DX ECU. Dont make
fun of it, just unbolt it and take the three plugs out of it. Set it somewhere out of the way.
It's time to modify your three ECU plugs A, B, and C.
8) The middle plug C452 needs pins for holes B10 and B12 (see Chilton diagrams
for help- they have pictures and illustrative explanations). Get the pins from old
or unused ECU plugs from junked Civics or Integra's. Use pliers to take the pins
out of the plug...ripping it out destroys the plug and pin and can cut your hand.
You should have two wires now coming from B10 and B12 that have enough
wire to solder or connect to others.
9) Go to C453 (Right plug). Cut the orange C1 and white C2 leaving enough wire
on the end on the plug. Dont take the plug out, just cut it. Take the wire that you cut
and connect the orange to B10 and the white to B12. You should have enough
wire left coming out of pins C1 and C2 for later.
10) Get some extra wire of the same guage (18) and cut them to equal lengths
so that they can be connected to C1 and C2 and be run through the firewall hole
into the engine bay to the cylinder sensor on the exhaust cam side of the engine.
So C1 and C2 go to the cylinder sensor. Connect C1 and C2 to the blue/green
and blue/yellow wires coming off the green plug on the sensor. When you are
running the wires to the sensor, it may be helpful to label them.
a) You MUST use your existing wiring harness that came with your car.
b) It is much easier to take off the DX harness and put it on the ZC after the engine is in the car.
WIRING PROCESS:
WHAT YOU NEED: Chilton's manual, the same gauge wire (18- different colors if you want),
Si or an Integra ECU, and extra pins, looming, and tape, 1990-1991 Fuel Injection Volt
Resistor Box (ridged texture and located in the top right corner of the engine bay)
1) Put the DX harness on the ZC when the engine is installed.
2) It is like the Si and ZC harness in most ways and should connect in most spots.
3) Make sure you have the right plugs going to the same places they were before.
4) The plugs should all fit on (even if they are different color). If you cant seem
to get enough of the wire (it should be tight), cut some of the tape and the black
looming off. This should release more wire for you to use. The round three plug
TPS was hard to stretch to reach the TPS sensor, but just cut the tape and loom.
5) When you have finished matching and plugging everything, C117 and C118 will
be left over as well as the C115 plug (brown) for the Tandem Valve Control
which is not used. Leave it hang or tape it up.
6) You should have the wire harness attached to all the right places and everything
ready for the modification.
7) Go inside the car on the passenger side and carefully take up the carpet in the
front where your feet goes (kickboard). This shall reveal your 1.5L DX ECU. Dont make
fun of it, just unbolt it and take the three plugs out of it. Set it somewhere out of the way.
It's time to modify your three ECU plugs A, B, and C.
8) The middle plug C452 needs pins for holes B10 and B12 (see Chilton diagrams
for help- they have pictures and illustrative explanations). Get the pins from old
or unused ECU plugs from junked Civics or Integra's. Use pliers to take the pins
out of the plug...ripping it out destroys the plug and pin and can cut your hand.
You should have two wires now coming from B10 and B12 that have enough
wire to solder or connect to others.
9) Go to C453 (Right plug). Cut the orange C1 and white C2 leaving enough wire
on the end on the plug. Dont take the plug out, just cut it. Take the wire that you cut
and connect the orange to B10 and the white to B12. You should have enough
wire left coming out of pins C1 and C2 for later.
10) Get some extra wire of the same guage (18) and cut them to equal lengths
so that they can be connected to C1 and C2 and be run through the firewall hole
into the engine bay to the cylinder sensor on the exhaust cam side of the engine.
So C1 and C2 go to the cylinder sensor. Connect C1 and C2 to the blue/green
and blue/yellow wires coming off the green plug on the sensor. When you are
running the wires to the sensor, it may be helpful to label them.
Can you tell me where can I find a good harness for sale for my JDM ZC swap? Down here in Puerto Rico I can find them only in one place but the people want too much for it.
Can you tell me where can I find a good harness for sale for my JDM ZC swap? Down here in Puerto Rico I can find them only in one place but the people want too much for it.
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