I reached my turbo goal on my ls/vtec turbo 350whp 14psi

now im building my n/a gsr with a goal of 230whp and hopefully i can hit it with this setup let me know if my goals can be reached.


gsr block
.5 over
ctr pistons
eagle rods
knife edged and balanced crank
4 puck clutch
lightweight fly wheel
arp studs and bolts

gsr head:
jg full port and polish
dual valve springs/retainers
stainless steel oversized valves
rc injectors
stage 2 cams and cam gears
jg edelbrock intake manifold
blox 68mm throttle body
itr header
j's racing intake
walbro fuel pump


tuning on hondata s200


let me know what you think and if i can reach 230whp

 

"All Motor - The expensive way to go slow."

 

yeah thats true but i have my turbo car on the side anyway i just want a fast turbo car and a fast n/a car

 

Ok, I actually looked at your "build".

Use different pistons, P30s seem popular for cast pistons. (PCT comp ratios are not correct, you won't have as high of comp. as you think)

Using forged rods on cast pistons makes for more work. You need to machine your pistons to fit. Go with OEM.

JG IM? Performer X maybe, stay away from the victor.

ITR header? Crap. Look into SMSP, Rage, Hytech, toda, or one of the tri-y designs.

Fuel pump isn't needed, waste of money.

Js racing intake? Lolsrsly? Just get a Vstack or save your money and get the password/yossai knockoffs, you won't lose any power over the $800 Js.

Don't get OS valves, it leads to v2v contact. Shave your head or use a different HG to gain compression.

Lightened flywheels are for road racing, if you go too light or don't drive/tune it properly it will be more hassle than it's worth. Knife edged cranks are the same way. Most people don't recomend it for a street car.

4 puck clutch is way overkill.

RC injectors are fine but I would use 310s.

I think that about covers it. Looks like you're back to the drawing board...

 

thanks for the input

the ctr pistons are already on the eagle rods
and the j's racing intake is just for driving around i made a fake carb sticker for it haha and the itr header and heatshield so i wont have any hassle with cops

because the car is bar legal in cali. all cops care about is if the motor is bar'd

just lookin for a fun daily driver all motor car.


p.s. i know i shouldnt use ctr pistons for a daily driver but i had a set on forged rods lying around so i used it

 

Edelbrock header with a 2.5" collector mod, 2.5" high flow cat and 2.5" catback, CA, smog legal
Im running this right now, just passed smog a week ago.
Also, what cams you planning on using?

 

im have a set of skunk 2 stage 2 cams but im looking into the pro series cams

should i stick with the s2s2 cams?

 

Pro 1, M22x, BC4, all great cams.

 

Hmmm... i tend to agree with the points made by 2LEM1. In my opinion, with your listed setup, 230whp is a long way off.

It takes a very well thought out build with the right combination of parts, coupled with a decent tuner/builder to make anything even vaguely close to 230 whp on a stock sleeved GSR. It's by no means out of reach, but tough.

I think you should either re-consider the parts combination here, or re-adjust your power goal. Don't get me wrong, it will be a fun daily driver, but I would be surprised if it made 200-210whp

 

you'll need better cams like all-mtr-teg said but I still think you'll be shy of your goal.

 

I would re-direct my whp goals to the 190ish mark if smog is a concern, then look into gearing to go faster. Yes, gearing makes a diff.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by norcalbayboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i know i shouldnt use ctr pistons for a daily driver but i had a set on forged rods lying around so i used it </TD></TR></TABLE>

So just because you "had rods lying around" makes it ok to run the pistons??

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Edelbrock header with a 2.5" collector mod, 2.5" high flow cat and 2.5" catback, CA, smog legal</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bueno. And will beat the ITRmanifold on the dyno.

 

ok im hoping for anything over 200whp then haha...

so if i get a set of pro 1 cams the edelbrock manifold setup my setup should be fine for a little over 200whp?

 

Why is the 200 # such a benchmark???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would re-direct my whp goals to the 190ish mark if smog is a concern, then look into gearing to go faster. Yes, gearing makes a diff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Probably the best advice in this thread - I have an MFactory close ratio gear set in my ITR and out of all the upgrades i've done, this made the most noticable difference. Highly recommended!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why is the 200 # such a benchmark??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Who knows. Real men shoot for 230+

 

You arent going to hit those numbers with a ITR header.

Look for a

SMSP

Hytech

DTR

JERRY BUILT

these headers will direct you to better numbers haha

 

^^^^Informative post guy, thanks for bringin a bunk thread back from the dead!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k0rean4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You arent going to hit those numbers with a ITR header.

Look for a

SMSP

Hytech

DTR

JERRY BUILT

these headers will direct you to better numbers haha</TD></TR></TABLE>

is it possible to weld on a jdm itr heat sheild on the hytech header if so i will go with the hytech header. im just trying look street legal...cali cops sucks nowadays