Tried posting this in the tech section, no replies so i thought i might give it a try here?
Just did an AT-MT swap, new speed sensor, back up light all works fine. The car started and ran fine with the AT ECU, but the speedo wasn't working. Swaped it out 4 a MT ECU, the car wouldn't start at all! Took it to honda for a reflash, the car starts up, but runs like crap if u give it any more than 50% throttle and the speedo still isnt working! Pretty much stranded now and any input would be great

 

model year...? Trim level...?

 

lol sorry i feel like a n00b for doing that. Anyways, 01 accord EXL

 

oh wow so a 6th gen with a manual swap.. who did it for you? the problem sounds like a wiring problem. who did the wiring?

 

Don't think you mentioned this, but he's boosted as well.

Do the problems only occur when you build boost, or in vacuum too? And it drives perfectly normal below 50% throttle?

 

that makes things a bit different... hmm.

 

When i start boosting it starts acting up. And yeah, below 50% throttle the car runs fine. I'm thinking if an O2 sensor could be the issue?

 

Any CELs? A bad O2 could cause a car to run very crappy, or it could have very little effect. Hard to pin the whole problem on one bad O2, but replacing it would definitely be a start if a CEL indicated that the sensor was not working correctly.

AT ECU works correctly, but MT ECU doesn't. Leads me to believe it's related to either wiring or tuning, but I can't find any wiring differences between the auto wiring harness and the manual ECU.

Are you certain you were given the correct ECU for an F23? You might simply need to tune from scratch with the MT ECU. Not sure who tuned it with the AT, but I'd suggest either finding a tuner with a dyno who can monitor your a/f with a wideband to tune, or a tuner with a portable wideband who can street tune the car. Either way, being able to look monitor your A/F, EGT, and timing would be EXTREMELY helpful to determine whether something is wrong, or whether you just need to tune. And not to knock on your setup now, but it might be a bit difficult to find someone who is familiar enough with your tuning platform to do it justice.


Modified by AFAccord at 7:23 PM 6/9/2008

 

either way here are some pics of an intake manifold from a MT 01 Accord, for reference if nothing eles.

 

CEL i have but thats for the CAT since its gone now..tomorrow i am gonna change the o2 to see if that makes any difference but i doubt it since the car ran fine with the AT EUC. But shouldn't i wait for the clutch to break in before a tune?

 

If it ran fine with the AT, then the O2 shouldn't be causing problems. You should indeed try to break in the clutch before you do any hard pulls for tuning.

 

super puzzled right now don't know what to do. Btw, is the BOV supposed to go off with a MT like it does with an AT? that is every time you let go of gas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S1n1SteR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Btw, is the BOV supposed to go off with a MT like it does with an AT? that is every time you let go of gas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.

 

So the CEL refers to "heat circuit failure". Don't really know what the hell that is but ordered an AEM EMS yesterday that i just got a couple of hours back and is in process of getting installed. Hope that fixes the problems.