front brakes to rear?
There is a reason that a car with a 60% front weight bias does not have large rear rotors and calipers. It simply will not be stable when braking hard. The other issue is the emergency brake, which is not avaliable on the front calipers.
he said he is doing a big brake kit. so im guessing he wants front rotars to the rear because of the visual satisfaction. IMO, not having the same size rotars for a appearence perspective is lame. Makes other cars with same sized rotars look nice, why not the integra!! but im thinking he was meaning cosmetic more than performance.
well no i did kinda want it more for the performace, this is mostly an idea ive been toying around with and was just curious what you guys though. so is it not good to have biger brakes in the back? if im up gradeing the front and left the back stock would'nt that make it just as unstable? i just figure i want everything to be even, ya know?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well no i did kinda want it more for the performace, this is mostly an idea ive been toying around with and was just curious what you guys though. so is it not good to have biger brakes in the back? if im up gradeing the front and left the back stock would'nt that make it just as unstable? i just figure i want everything to be even, ya know?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml
And then read some more:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml
Read:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml
And then read some more:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">o, that explains alot. so should i just upgrade my system with some slotted rotors/pads/stainless lines and better fluid?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Drilled and/or slotted rotors = bad.
there is less material there, so under hard braking you have a better chance of cracking a rotor and then your up ***** creek.
Do some research on here, there are a few threads with alot of info on why blanks are best.
Drilled and/or slotted rotors = bad.
there is less material there, so under hard braking you have a better chance of cracking a rotor and then your up ***** creek.
Do some research on here, there are a few threads with alot of info on why blanks are best.
ok so what should i do/ what would you do. i checked weaksauce.com and they got a cool looking combo pacage im lookin at. but now im just thinkin new pads/ stainless lines and better fluid.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,940
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mfoehrkolb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he said he is doing a big brake kit. so im guessing he wants front rotars to the rear because of the visual satisfaction. IMO, not having the same size rotars for a appearence perspective is lame. Makes other cars with same sized rotars look nice, why not the integra!! but im thinking he was meaning cosmetic more than performance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I doubt you'll find a single production vehicle on the face of the planet with the same size brakes in the rear as in the front. It's a simple matter of physics: when braking, weight transfers to the front, and therefore the front brakes need to be able to dissipate more energy than the rear brakes.
I doubt you'll find a single production vehicle on the face of the planet with the same size brakes in the rear as in the front. It's a simple matter of physics: when braking, weight transfers to the front, and therefore the front brakes need to be able to dissipate more energy than the rear brakes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so what should i do/ what would you do. i checked weaksauce.com and they got a cool looking combo pacage im lookin at. but now im just thinkin new pads/ stainless lines and better fluid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well no i did kinda want it more for the performace...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you currently tracking your car? (road course, not drag strip) Unless you're experiencing major brake fade, you're fine with just getting some ceramic pads. For the fluid, just use OEM. Stock rotors are plenty capable. I usually use Autozone Duralst blanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well no i did kinda want it more for the performace...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you currently tracking your car? (road course, not drag strip) Unless you're experiencing major brake fade, you're fine with just getting some ceramic pads. For the fluid, just use OEM. Stock rotors are plenty capable. I usually use Autozone Duralst blanks.
well was doing some sprited driveing a while ago and did experiance some brake fade. being a bit a perfectionist i dont want that to happen ever again so basicaly i just want to stop on a dime......what should i do/tell me what you would do
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well was doing some sprited driveing a while ago and did experiance some brake fade. being a bit a perfectionist i dont want that to happen ever again so basicaly i just want to stop on a dime......what should i do/tell me what you would do</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you want to reduce brake fade, you probably need to learn to drive better (as in, brake less). Seriously, the OEM brakes in my GSR held up fine to 45 minute lapping session around the big track at Willow Springs in 105* heat without fade.
If you want to improve brake performance, you want stickier tires and better pads. Nothing more.
Lastly, while I (and many others) daily drive on stainless brake lines, they aren't the solution for everyone. OEM rubber lines will last, well, nearly forever. Stainless however, needs to be regularly inspected and replaced. Dirt, getting stuck between the braided steel, will slowly chew up the inner teflon line, resulting in leaks.
If you want to reduce brake fade, you probably need to learn to drive better (as in, brake less). Seriously, the OEM brakes in my GSR held up fine to 45 minute lapping session around the big track at Willow Springs in 105* heat without fade.
If you want to improve brake performance, you want stickier tires and better pads. Nothing more.
Lastly, while I (and many others) daily drive on stainless brake lines, they aren't the solution for everyone. OEM rubber lines will last, well, nearly forever. Stainless however, needs to be regularly inspected and replaced. Dirt, getting stuck between the braided steel, will slowly chew up the inner teflon line, resulting in leaks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well was doing some sprited driveing a while ago and did experiance some brake fade. being a bit a perfectionist i dont want that to happen ever again so basicaly i just want to stop on a dime......what should i do/tell me what you would do</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you deal with dust? I'd get something like Hawk HP+ or Axxis Ultimates. They both dust quite a bit, though. No big deal if you clean your wheels every now and then.
For rotors, you can't beat Autozone Duralast blanks.
This would be your cheapest and best set up for what you want.
Can you deal with dust? I'd get something like Hawk HP+ or Axxis Ultimates. They both dust quite a bit, though. No big deal if you clean your wheels every now and then.
For rotors, you can't beat Autozone Duralast blanks.
This would be your cheapest and best set up for what you want.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlammedDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went with ITR calipers, pads, and rotors in the front. I have no complaints. Next time I do brakes it will have brembo blanks with Hawk HP+.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you've got ITR calipers, I'd look into the OEM ITR pads. They will perform about as well as the HP+ and they're cheaper. I think the HP+'s do last a little bit longer, though.
If you've got ITR calipers, I'd look into the OEM ITR pads. They will perform about as well as the HP+ and they're cheaper. I think the HP+'s do last a little bit longer, though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p nut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you've got ITR calipers, I'd look into the OEM ITR pads. They will perform about as well as the HP+ and they're cheaper. I think the HP+'s do last a little bit longer, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everything is OEM for now. Don't really drive the car enough to upgrade anything for a while. I have yet to have any problems. Only wish the braking on my truck was half as good as the car. Stopping 3 tons is a little harder, esp. when there are drums in the rear
If you've got ITR calipers, I'd look into the OEM ITR pads. They will perform about as well as the HP+ and they're cheaper. I think the HP+'s do last a little bit longer, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everything is OEM for now. Don't really drive the car enough to upgrade anything for a while. I have yet to have any problems. Only wish the braking on my truck was half as good as the car. Stopping 3 tons is a little harder, esp. when there are drums in the rear
coolbeans thanx guys that helped a bunch, so whats this business about stainless lines and dirt? it seems like if you wraped them in rubber that would solve that? idk
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">coolbeans thanx guys that helped a bunch, so whats this business about stainless lines and dirt? it seems like if you wraped them in rubber that would solve that? idk </TD></TR></TABLE>
You want the lines to be coated with plastic to prevent dirt infiltration and subsequent abrasion. Simply wrapping the lines with rubber will not do this, as dirt will be trapped between the rubber and braid.
You want the lines to be coated with plastic to prevent dirt infiltration and subsequent abrasion. Simply wrapping the lines with rubber will not do this, as dirt will be trapped between the rubber and braid.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Steven.
Acura Integra
4
Jul 22, 2008 10:28 AM
JDMlyfestyle
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
13
Mar 22, 2004 11:04 PM
96GSR
Acura Integra
7
Apr 26, 2002 11:39 AM








