Acura Integra All Integra Except ITR

front brakes to rear?

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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 01:04 AM
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Default front brakes to rear?

ok so im doing a big break kit and was wondering can i swap out the stock front roters/calipers/pads to the rear?
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 04:06 AM
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Default Re: front brakes to rear? (sjbmx)

There is a reason that a car with a 60% front weight bias does not have large rear rotors and calipers. It simply will not be stable when braking hard. The other issue is the emergency brake, which is not avaliable on the front calipers.
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 04:34 AM
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Default Re: front brakes to rear? (sjbmx)

What Dogginator szaid and the mounting holes for the caliper brackets are completely different from the front.
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 02:21 PM
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Default Re: front brakes to rear? (sjbmx)

Your front breaks do most of the breaking. Just get some performance rotors and pads for the rear, you ll be fine.
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 04:37 PM
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he said he is doing a big brake kit. so im guessing he wants front rotars to the rear because of the visual satisfaction. IMO, not having the same size rotars for a appearence perspective is lame. Makes other cars with same sized rotars look nice, why not the integra!! but im thinking he was meaning cosmetic more than performance.
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 12:25 AM
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well no i did kinda want it more for the performace, this is mostly an idea ive been toying around with and was just curious what you guys though. so is it not good to have biger brakes in the back? if im up gradeing the front and left the back stock would'nt that make it just as unstable? i just figure i want everything to be even, ya know?
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 03:14 AM
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Default Re: (sjbmx)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well no i did kinda want it more for the performace, this is mostly an idea ive been toying around with and was just curious what you guys though. so is it not good to have biger brakes in the back? if im up gradeing the front and left the back stock would'nt that make it just as unstable? i just figure i want everything to be even, ya know?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml

And then read some more:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 07:23 PM
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o, that explains alot. so should i just upgrade my system with some slotted rotors/pads/stainless lines and better fluid?
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Old Jun 9, 2008 | 08:48 PM
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Default Re: (sjbmx)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">o, that explains alot. so should i just upgrade my system with some slotted rotors/pads/stainless lines and better fluid?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Drilled and/or slotted rotors = bad.

there is less material there, so under hard braking you have a better chance of cracking a rotor and then your up ***** creek.
Do some research on here, there are a few threads with alot of info on why blanks are best.

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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 12:41 AM
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ok so what should i do/ what would you do. i checked weaksauce.com and they got a cool looking combo pacage im lookin at. but now im just thinkin new pads/ stainless lines and better fluid.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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Default Re: (Mfoehrkolb)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mfoehrkolb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he said he is doing a big brake kit. so im guessing he wants front rotars to the rear because of the visual satisfaction. IMO, not having the same size rotars for a appearence perspective is lame. Makes other cars with same sized rotars look nice, why not the integra!! but im thinking he was meaning cosmetic more than performance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I doubt you'll find a single production vehicle on the face of the planet with the same size brakes in the rear as in the front. It's a simple matter of physics: when braking, weight transfers to the front, and therefore the front brakes need to be able to dissipate more energy than the rear brakes.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 01:05 PM
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Default Re: (sjbmx)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so what should i do/ what would you do. i checked weaksauce.com and they got a cool looking combo pacage im lookin at. but now im just thinkin new pads/ stainless lines and better fluid.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well no i did kinda want it more for the performace...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you currently tracking your car? (road course, not drag strip) Unless you're experiencing major brake fade, you're fine with just getting some ceramic pads. For the fluid, just use OEM. Stock rotors are plenty capable. I usually use Autozone Duralst blanks.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 05:36 PM
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well was doing some sprited driveing a while ago and did experiance some brake fade. being a bit a perfectionist i dont want that to happen ever again so basicaly i just want to stop on a dime......what should i do/tell me what you would do
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 06:04 PM
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Default Re: (sjbmx)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well was doing some sprited driveing a while ago and did experiance some brake fade. being a bit a perfectionist i dont want that to happen ever again so basicaly i just want to stop on a dime......what should i do/tell me what you would do</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want to reduce brake fade, you probably need to learn to drive better (as in, brake less). Seriously, the OEM brakes in my GSR held up fine to 45 minute lapping session around the big track at Willow Springs in 105* heat without fade.

If you want to improve brake performance, you want stickier tires and better pads. Nothing more.

Lastly, while I (and many others) daily drive on stainless brake lines, they aren't the solution for everyone. OEM rubber lines will last, well, nearly forever. Stainless however, needs to be regularly inspected and replaced. Dirt, getting stuck between the braided steel, will slowly chew up the inner teflon line, resulting in leaks.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 08:40 PM
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Default Re: (sjbmx)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well was doing some sprited driveing a while ago and did experiance some brake fade. being a bit a perfectionist i dont want that to happen ever again so basicaly i just want to stop on a dime......what should i do/tell me what you would do</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you deal with dust? I'd get something like Hawk HP+ or Axxis Ultimates. They both dust quite a bit, though. No big deal if you clean your wheels every now and then.

For rotors, you can't beat Autozone Duralast blanks.

This would be your cheapest and best set up for what you want.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 08:46 PM
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Default Re: (p nut)

I went with ITR calipers, pads, and rotors in the front. I have no complaints. Next time I do brakes it will have brembo blanks with Hawk HP+.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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Default Re: (SlammedDC2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlammedDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went with ITR calipers, pads, and rotors in the front. I have no complaints. Next time I do brakes it will have brembo blanks with Hawk HP+.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you've got ITR calipers, I'd look into the OEM ITR pads. They will perform about as well as the HP+ and they're cheaper. I think the HP+'s do last a little bit longer, though.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 09:37 PM
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Default Re: (p nut)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by p nut &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you've got ITR calipers, I'd look into the OEM ITR pads. They will perform about as well as the HP+ and they're cheaper. I think the HP+'s do last a little bit longer, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Everything is OEM for now. Don't really drive the car enough to upgrade anything for a while. I have yet to have any problems. Only wish the braking on my truck was half as good as the car. Stopping 3 tons is a little harder, esp. when there are drums in the rear
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 10:37 PM
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coolbeans thanx guys that helped a bunch, so whats this business about stainless lines and dirt? it seems like if you wraped them in rubber that would solve that? idk
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 03:41 AM
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Default Re: (sjbmx)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjbmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">coolbeans thanx guys that helped a bunch, so whats this business about stainless lines and dirt? it seems like if you wraped them in rubber that would solve that? idk </TD></TR></TABLE>

You want the lines to be coated with plastic to prevent dirt infiltration and subsequent abrasion. Simply wrapping the lines with rubber will not do this, as dirt will be trapped between the rubber and braid.
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