1. is it cool to drive around without the cover on in a rocky environment? i was thinking a pebble could get caught in there and it might spell bad news.

2. i have a cover for it, i think i have to take off the crankshaft pulley, anyone done this?
is it a bitch? anything i should know before i take it off?

thanks, im an idiot.

 

the more cover the safer. no cover = , cover =

you have to take the accessorry belts off/loosen them, take the pulley off, slide the cover on, and then put the belts and pulley back on..you shouldnt have to mess with the actual timing belt at all to put the cover(s) back on


Modified by richmond at 6:45 PM 6/7/2008

 

is there anyway i can mess up the timing or throw the crankshaft off by messing with its pulley? and i read somwhere that the torque on that pulley is 119 ft. lbs? seems a bit strong, can anyone confirm this?

theres really no accessory pullies. i took them all out. so theres just a belt from the crank to the alternator.

 

i wouldnt think so. The timing belt has teeth on it. Turning the crank will just turn T-belt. Without loosening the tensioner the timing belt shouldnt go anywhere. correct me if im wrong

 

the best way to take off the crank pulley bolt is an impact gun...

1. take the belts off the accessories
2. take off crank pulley bolt
3. remove crank pulley
4. DO NOT LOSE CRANKSHAFT WOODRUFF KEY...
5. PUT COVER ON...
6. PUT EVERYTHING BACK

 

i just have a giant torque wrench. no impact.

ill manage. probably.

any recommendations as far as my water pump goes?

the cars at 115K right now, should i throw a new one on their or just let it burn out?

 

you should throw a new timing blet and water pump in if your at 115k... also as for the impact gun... not all impact guns have enough torque to take that bolt out so there for it you use a big ratchet... you will have to pull the bottom cover off the tranny put a flat head screw driver in there to lock the trans up so it dont spin... then would recomend you holding on to the car and push your ratchet with your foot... guarenteed to come off... or your money back.

 

and pulling that crank pulley off wont screw up your timing there is a key in there that postions it in the correct place so dont lose that key when you pull the pulley off... otherwise you will be **** out of luck to find another that small...

 

any other ways to lock the tranny?

put it in gear? reverse?

 

I had a friend stand on the brakes with the trans in gear while trying to get his off. It worked great up until the clutch slipped.

 

did your clutch suck or were you too strong?

 

what about removing the starter and putting a flat blade in there?

how do you guys get a big *** ratchet on that pulley? from underneath the car or the top? my engine mount is in the way for me to get it from the top, guess i gotta jack the car up pretty high and try to get it off from underneath..

 

AS FoR YOUR WATER PUMP.. MOST DEFINATELY... i would change it.. and cam seal and crank seal...

 

no just jack the car up noramally remove your tire walha its right there... i think removing your starter would be more of a pain in the a$$ then roughly 6 bolts underneath very easy to get too... plus while your under there if your like me you can take some time and clean up under there.. and my ratchet isnt that big... its the normal 1/2" drive craftsman ratchet like i said hold on to the front of the car and push with your foot..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bignosewhipper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did your clutch suck or were you too strong?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a 5 foot pipe on a breaker bar

I also had a 18" extension on the socket so it extended the breaker bar outside of the wheel well. We ended up buying a $20 crank holder (it was an accord) and wedging the bearker bar that went on that against the ground. They torque those crank pullys to 212 ftlbs if I remember correctly, but with me pushing as hard as I could I bet I put &gt;500 ftlbs on it...

On my CRX I always used my breaker bar for the pully bolt and wedged a screwdriver between the flywheel and transmission housing (pull the lower cover off the bellhousing). I need a better way of doing it though, I dont want to bust my transmission housing.

 

My DOHC ZC crx it took me a 12 foot pipe on my breaker bar to get the crank pulley loose. My big 450 dollar MAC impact wouldn't touch it. It was pretty cool when the bolt broke loose the 12 foot bar shot over my head and almost took my friend out.

 

this sounds like its gonna suck

 

where exactly should i stick the screw driver in the tranny? will i have to change the fluids in it since im taking the cover off?

 

dude the only ppl that ride around with no timeing cover fall in to 3 categorys
1.)ricers, they see the videos on youtube and **** BUT what they don't know the guys that are running no timing cover probly because they're still testing and tuning
2.) dumbasses....falls into the same category as above

and mr smith
yea you're wrong you don't have to loosen the tensioner just turn it backwards you can throw it off


Modified by beana at 11:30 AM 6/10/2008


Modified by beana at 11:30 AM 6/10/2008

 

just behinde that tranny cover there you put the screw driver (it will be your flywheel) in there where ever your flywheel teeth are any where and just start cranking on your pully the engine will turn over and then it will finally stop b/c obvisouly the screw driver isnt going to go the whole way up into your trans housing... just make sure the screw driver dont fall out while your just spinning the engine... lefty losey righty tighty... when it stops use your foot to push on your ratchet... and i'd say ignore all that talk about 212ft lbs of torque on it and 12' of pipe this and that blah blah blah.. that pulley tightens as you drive so as long as you put it back on tight it will tighten over time and you will be golden...

 

the pulley tightens as you drive....? first time i hear this

my cb7 (91 accord) pulley specs are 159lbs, it wasnt that hard to put on or take off, and i gotta do it again lol i wouldnt torque it to anythin less than factory spec, unless it tightens as you drive is true

 

yup tightens as you drive but its not like ooo im driving today it tightened 10 more ft lbs... no once it gets to a certain point it dont tighten... and it dont losen... your engine is spining righty tighty... not lefty losey...

 

that stuff with the tranny scares me. any different easier ways to lock the crank? or is this absolutley what i need to do?

 

i dont know of any other way... its nothing scary... just pull the cover off you will see the flywheel just put a screw driver in there... its very easy and simple... its not goign to mess anything up... its 100% safe... if one of you teeth on your flywheel breaks off then your flywheel has some serious issues to break that easily...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90teg91hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know of any other way... its nothing scary... just pull the cover off you will see the flywheel just put a screw driver in there... its very easy and simple... its not goign to mess anything up... its 100% safe... if one of you teeth on your flywheel breaks off then your flywheel has some serious issues to break that easily... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would be concerned with breaking a chunk of the transmission housing off, not the flywheel. The correct way to do it is with a tool from Honda.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90teg91hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup tightens as you drive but its not like ooo im driving today it tightened 10 more ft lbs... no once it gets to a certain point it dont tighten... and it dont losen... your engine is spining righty tighty... not lefty losey...</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I'm picturing correctly, EF engines spin twords the front of the car, which is counterclockwise from the front. Engine spins the mainshaft, changes direction on the countershaft, and goes back to the original spin direction at the diff.