2001 Honda Prelude base model, Automatic, 2.2L DOHC, VTEC

I was testing one of the new hydrogen generators on my car for gas mileage and had the wires ran temporarily into the cockpit of the car that were attached to the 1st and 3rd wires of my MAP sensor. I was on the interstate this last weekend when my 6 year old son reached down and grabbed the wires and grounded them against a metal part of the car. The car immediately stopped running and has not ran since then. I have read for hours on different forums and no one seems to have ever had this particular scenario happen. The car was throwing fuel when the key was on and filled up the engine compartment and was pouring out of the manifold. I had the car towed home. After checking all fuses and relays under the hood and in the driver's side floor area, I decided since the car was throwing fuel that the ECU was probably the first victim. I replaced the P5M-L55 with a P5M-L54, the closest I could find anywhere and the only one available in the state of KY. That fixed the gas problem, but after blowing the fuel out of the engine and replacing the plugs, it still won't start. I have checked a plug out of the car, before the coil pack, and after the coil pack and all the car does is spark for about 1-2 seconds and then stops. We replaced the coil, the plugs, the ICM in the distributor and the distributor cap and button are only about 4 months old. It still does the exact same thing, it sparks for a couple of seconds and then no sparks. After extensive reading I decided it might be the Immobilizer creating the problem. My dad was an electronics engineer for years so he is very handy with a soldering iron and IC boards. I had him swap the Immobilizer chip from the old computer into the new computer. Still, it doesn't work. The green key icon comes on and blinks 2 times I think when you turn the key on and then goes off, then when you turn the key off, it blinks 3 times or 5 times. If it is the Immobilizer, I did not receive the Red learning key when I bought the car. The Check Engine light is not staying on when cranking. I am at my rope's end. I talked this morning to a technician that has been at the Honda dealership for over 30 years and the only other suggestion he had besides towing it to a dealer and having them check it with the HDS was that he mentioned that there might be a main ECU relay that is located under the dash near the steering column that MIGHT have blown. If anyone out there can offer any help, it would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks.

 

Yeah, definitely sounds like the Immobilizer. I can't remember it off hand, but if there is a way to temporarily defeat the immobilizer system (check around here on H-T) and some locksmiths can apparently reflash your ECU for a new key...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gstrudler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, definitely sounds like the Immobilizer. I can't remember it off hand, but if there is a way to temporarily defeat the immobilizer system (check around here on H-T) and some locksmiths can apparently reflash your ECU for a new key...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get it to a honda dealer,

They can reprogram a new Key for it.

 

does your fuel pump prime ? And are you getting fuel , meaning are the injectors spraying...not do you have fuel pressure because having pressure doesnt mean the injectors are firing.

I used to know about the blinks with the immobilzer but i cant remember what they mean.


Modified by lude98SH at 7:50 PM 6/9/2008

 

UPDATE

*** Okay, my dad found a 1997 Accord computer at a dealership and tried it on my car. It cranked, but runs funny, doesn't want to idle, but runs better when you give it a lot of gas. I am assuming either it is not a completely compatible computer or that it is for a manual transmission where mine is an automatic if I have done my research correctly on all of the posts on forums I have read. I think I am hearing that everyone recommends going with either a P13, P28 or P72 for my car. I know that the P28 doesn't look for the Knocks and a few other differences. I also know I am going to need a harness adapter from OBD2 to OBD1. Which computer would you guys recommend I go with? I am thinking the P13. They don't seem to cost a lot and they are very chip-able if I decide to do mods later. Does anyone have a cheap computer that they want to sell? I figure the price should be $50 or less for a used one for everything I am seeing on the web. I also need the correct harness. Those are listed online for anywhere between $20 and $40. All help is very much appreciated. Thanks.

 

You need an automatic P5M ecu for the transmission to work properly. Have the immobilizer/ecu reprogrammed. It should only be 0.5hr of labor.

 

I have a 97 prelude with a ha22a1 in it and its not firing either I was driving it went to hit vtec and it just shut off and hasn't fired since im rele starting to get anoyed with it iv put 3 computers in it changed the coil the main relay by the steering colum the crank sencer but have not changed the distributer bc I rele don't want to pay 299 bucks for some so can come on help me out!