Hi folks. New to the forum and hope you don't mind assisting! My car is a 1995 Acura Integra LS with automatic transmission. The problem I'm experiencing is that the engine will require 8-10 long cranks before it starts after it sits for 1-2 hours. Nearly every day, I come home at 5PM, if I try to start the car at 7PM it will act this way. When I go to work in the morning and leave work in the afternoon it always starts right up. This is what I have done so far, along with additional information:

# Replaced main fuel relay
# Replaced fuel filter
# Replaced purge control solenoid and filter
# Checked fuses (none are blown)
# Battery voltage is ~12.4 sitting and ~14.4 running
# Idle is perfectly 750RPM at normal operating temperature (no surging, fluctuations, lag, etc)
# Replaced spark plugs, distributor cap, and rotor
# Spark plug wires have ~30,000 miles on them
# Spark plug wires measure below 1300ohms impedance
# Entire distributor assembly was replaced ~12,000 miles ago
# Cleaned battery terminals, clamps, and grounds (chassis, valve cover, radiator)
# Timing was set to stock 11 months ago
# Coil measured 0.8 and 18.2k impedance (within the acceptable range)
# CEL acts normal (comes on for two seconds then turns off)
# When the car has trouble starting, audibly the starter sounds like it's functioning properly (no clicks).
# In the past 10 months, 4 or 5 times the engine has died when I shift from Park to Reverse. It easily starts back up. I'm not sure if this is related.

When testing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) resistance at wires BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU with GROUND I'm seeing 0.0 rather than 12v battery voltage. This was measured with the coil removed. For a ground I tried all different places on the chassis, valve cover ground wire, etc. Would this indicate a faulty ICM or a bad ground? Keep in mind the car normally starts 90% of the time, but does not like starting if it has been sitting for a little while - heat related? I'm running out of ideas and this is driving me insane.

I opened up the ECM and it looks perfect. No leaking capacitors or anything. I also have high resolution ECM photos if requested.

At this point I'm not sure if it's the ICM, Ignition Switch, Starter, or something else. Thanks in advance.

 

does fule pump initialize opon first crank, even tho it dosent fire? what kinda gs you use..? good or bad...? some places sell shitty watered gas, especially these days... when it fires finnally does it run rich? clean intake latley.? you should test the starter for proper cranking voltage, autozone can do that for ya...bad ground from starter? i dunno man...all cylinders fire during misted cranks..?

 

It's been happening for months, the gas is fine. When it finally fires, it runs like a champ. I don't believe it's running rich. Unless otherwise advised, one of my next plans of action is replacing or testing the starter.

Like I mentioned, it SOUNDS like the starter is working properly. How common is it that the starter seems to be cranking with enough juice but it's actually not?

 

might b the starter selenoid
or a faulty alternator
you could buy either and test if its not then return them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95_B18b1_Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">might b the starter selenoid
or a faulty alternator
you could buy either and test if its not then return them </TD></TR></TABLE>

Starter solenoid sounds very possible. How would the alternator effect startup? I know I'm seeing 14.4v at the battery when the engine is running.

 

Im going to swap out the fuel pressure regulator.

 

I ended up buying a new ECU but I haven't installed it yet.

 

Hopefully this helps someone in the future..

I replaced the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor and my problems are solved. I believe my old one thought the car was cold when it was actually warm, causing the ECU to flood the engine with gasoline resulting in difficulties starting.

 

i had the same exact problem with my da i changed out the ignition coil and it drove fine for a couple of days but came back then i changed out the icm and i was fine i suggest u either get a whole new distributor or just change out the coil icm and possibly the distributor cover