hello all, i bought a '97 prelude base model about a month back and while i was in class one day checking my oxygen sensor on the lift, i noticed buckets full of oil pissing out of my car (that's another story though) upon repair of said leaks four days later, i was still leaking and it has progressed almost to the same point once again. My teacher and i were discussing the rich condition my car's been having and as i pulled out my pcv to check operation, there was a lot of pressure coming from the hole. so i put the valve back and took off the oil fill cap to find that my car has an excessive amount of blow-by. no blue smoke to cue me off, just this ridiculous pressure in my crankcase. i tried a top engine cleaner to free them up to no avail and now i'm going to have to replace my rings. so, with that being said i wanted to get this thread started so that i could get some input on products and tuning post-installation. beacuse realisticly speaking, i have the money to do so so i'll just tear the whole thing down and rebuild it. this is not my first rebuild, but it is the first time i've been raising static compression and dealing with high octane pressure. thus far i'm looking into 11:1 nipponracing type s style pistons, kms valve springs with chromoly retainers, using the stock rods (pending they're not on their last leg), still searching for reasonable valves and cams, and been calling machine shops for a port job on the head. I was also going to take the trans apart and inspect the synchros and look into a technical service bulletin about fifth gear grinding, as well as replace the clutch and flywheel with something a bit more suiting for the build (fidanza flywheel is the only part i've settled on). for starters; will the stock rods hold up to the raised compression, will i need to up the octane rating of my gas or retard timing, and where the hell can i find cams that aren't 600-[freak]ing-dollars? and would using high compression valves be a bad idea with those pistons? clearance issues, compression knock, shooting the plugs out the top of the engine? lol thanks for any input.


Modified by familiarecho at 10:14 AM 6/6/2008

 

whoa whoa whoa.. you're rebuilding because you have positive crankcase pressure?? Even a brand new engine is going to blow air out the oil cap. not a good way to check blow-by.

Do a leak-down and compression test.

Your oil leak is most likely your oil cooler o-ring, which takes about 5 minutes to fix

your stock rods would have to be machined to accept the type s floating wrist pins

 

there's no need for a leakdown, you can smell the exhaust out of the fill cap. and no, respectfully, a new engine or one that is sealing correctly should have a negitive pressure or vacuum, when the pcv is attached, or at least no positive pressure. the oil leaks are coming from underneath my timing cover (just took the whole oil pump off and replaced every seal involved and put a fresh coat of honda bond on the back after cleaning it) it looks like my oil press sending unit is leaking a bit, my oil pan (also took off, removed the gasket from the '96 the guys before me installed. and put fresh honda bond and little rear cap seal) this was less than a weak ago and i can leak out a quart of oil in less than a day. the seals won't hold because the pressure is excessive. i realize that a car can run perfect with a little positive pressure, but trust me when i say it is excessive.

 

motors is out