94 Accord auto, base model. 215k miles. The previous owner was going slow, probably 15 mph off a stop light when it broke. I have read that these are interference engines, but not always.

 

they are interference engines so chance of bending something are pretty good.

you could buy a new belt and throw it on, then do a compression or leakdown test and see how it checks. Or pull the head and inspect it.

 

I've read a few people on here saying that a lot of cars survive the belt break if it is at low RPMs and someone even said survival is higher on automatics (not sure why)

Its a $150 car I basically bought for scrap, but if its as simple as throwing a T belt on I might do it if my chances are 50/50

 

i didn't say you would definitely have bent valve, just chance are pretty good since it is an interference engine.

would I say 50/50, maybe...

some people have said they've broken a timing belt and gotten lucky, but how trusting of the seller are to trust the statement of 15mph? They were leaving a stop light, were the rpms high? Manual in 1st gear could be high enough depending on how they were driving.

not sure about that statement about the auto's though, don't get why it would be different.

For the cost of a belt, I'd probably just get one, put it on there and see how it checks by doing a compression or leakdown test. I mean it can't hurt since you bought the car for only 150.

 

I trust the sellers statement of 15mph because I was driving in a parking lot when I saw the accord break down. He basically left a stop light and coasted into the parking lot when it died.

 

gotcha

 

I'd like to hear from someone that has successfully not damaged valves... then I would probably throw a belt on

 

in all honesty, not trying to be rude, just because someone comes into your thread and says they lucked out isn't going to change your chances. You said it yourself that you've read of people not damaging the valves, what more do you need? If you feel confident that it was low rpms and the person didn't just sit there and try cranking and cranking it to try starting it then why not try a new belt? I'm not saying to buy everything, just get the belt and see how it does first. If it's fine then go ahead and do all the other stuff like the seals, water pump, tensioners, ect. Yeah, you'll be doing the job twice but it's better than pulling the head to inspect or buying everything just to find out some valve are bent. This way you would only be out time and the money for the belt.


Modified by TouringAccord at 12:49 PM 6/6/2008

 

I'd like to get a few more replies.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in all honesty, not trying to be rude, just because someone comes into your thread and says they lucked out isn't going to change your chances. You said it yourself that you've read of people not damaging the valves, what more do you need? If you feel confident that it was low rpms and the person didn't just sit there and try cranking and cranking it to try starting it then why not try a new belt? I'm not saying to buy everything, just get the belt and see how it does first. If it's fine then go ahead and do all the other stuff like the seals, water pump, tensioners, ect. Yeah, you'll be doing the job twice but it's better than pulling the head to inspect or buying everything just to find out some valve are bent. This way you would only be out time and the money for the belt.


Modified by TouringAccord at 12:49 PM 6/6/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 new t-belt/compression/leakdown and then diagnose your probs from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NeKe1point0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

x2 new t-belt/compression/leakdown and then diagnose your probs from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not going to spend 5 hours doing a leak down test on a $150 car. I'm just looking for some first hand experience on broken tbelts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NeKe1point0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

x2 new t-belt/compression/leakdown and then diagnose your probs from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not going to spend 5 hours doing a leak down test on a $150 car. I'm just looking for some first hand experience on broken tbelts.

 

I bought mine at 180k miles for $150 with a broken belt.

Changed the timing and balance belt and did a compression test. I was lucky to get 200 psi on all 4 cylinders. Now it is &gt;300k miles.


Modified by AccordEX1991 at 2:51 PM 6/6/2008

 

my '88 mazda turbo sohc engine blew its timing belt while i was driving on freeway at 70mph.
after a day of checking why it stopped running i discovered the rotor did not turn while turning the key and hearing the starter turn. so the timing belt was found to be broken and not turning the cam and valves.
anyhow, this engine is supposed to be an interference as our accords.
i seriously expected to have damaged valves after i re-belted it, however to my joy it ran as fine as ever.
recently i replaced timing belt on my accord and its a bit$h compared to mazdas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 28 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've read a few people on here saying that a lot of cars survive the belt break if it is at low RPMs and someone even said survival is higher on automatics (not sure why)

Its a $150 car I basically bought for scrap, but if its as simple as throwing a T belt on I might do it if my chances are 50/50</TD></TR></TABLE>

once the engine stalls the bottom half actually stops spinning faster than if it were connected to a stick because the tq converter unlocks when the ecu can't run the engine and the trans is no longer connected to the crank causing it to rotate

 

the majority of us who own honda/acura are smart enough to change the belt when it is due.......and therefore don't have this problem